Set your camber first and then caster. For more positive caster, you add shims to the rear bolt and at the same time you remove the same amount of shims from the front bolt. That way your camber stays the same while adding more positive caster. I do this on my 65.

 

For more positive caster, you add shims to the rear bolt and at the same time you remove the same amount of shims from the front bolt.

Are you sure?

 

I did an alignment on my cars recently. I see you say X# shims. Are they all the same thickness or are they different thickness?

 

They are the same and sort of thick.

 

Hm, isn't it the other way around? First you set caster since the adding/removing of shims moves the ball joint forward or backward and that moves the ball joint in and out a bit. Camber just moves the ball joint in or out because you remove or add the same number of shims under each bolt. Toe in is last.
Do you have the shop manual? It tells you how much a shim changes caster and camber. Extremely helpful

 

Did you give your suspension time to settle and did you tighten the lower control arm mounting bolt with weight on the tires?

 

Yes, I am using turn plates and bounce up and down several times to settle.

 

If your caster is good, and you want to reduce camber, you need to take an equal number of shims out from under each bolt. Since you say you already have zero shims under the rear bolt, you have a problem.

If you don't already have a one-piece export brace on the car, I suggest you get one. It sounds like the tops of your shock towers have sagged outwards, and need to be brought back in toward the center of the car. Getting the brace installed may be challenging.

Another option to get more camber adjustment is to install a set of these:

Lower Control Arm Camber Kit for 65-66 Mustangs

IMO the correct order for alignment is caster, then camber, then toe. Otherwise your caster adjustments will change the camber setting.

Good luck,
MrFreeze

 

Another option to get more camber adjustment is to install a set of these:

Lower Control Arm Camber Kit for 65-66 Mustangs

I reckon you are correct. I have no shims on the rear to remove, so I am stuck with a kit like this. I have a small mig with gas and can weld a little. I'm just afraid it might not hold under these situations...lol Be my luck to be on the next "real live idiot" youtube, flying off a bridge or such! I might see about having it ready and getting a welding guy to come by with his heavy duty stuff. Wonder if the body panel glue would hold on this...lol

 

You add more shims to the front bolt to INCREASE caster, you remove shims from both bolts to REDUCE camber.

MrFreeze

 

"If you don't already have a one-piece export brace on the car, I suggest you get one. "
I do have that and it is quite solid too.
"IMO the correct order for alignment is caster, then camber, then toe. Otherwise your caster adjustments will change the camber setting " Well, the caster is great. Just need to get the camber in line.
Thanks.

 

"If you don't already have a one-piece export brace on the car, I suggest you get one. "
I do have that and it is quite solid too.
"IMO the correct order for alignment is caster, then camber, then toe. Otherwise your caster adjustments will change the camber setting " Well, the caster is great. Just need to get the camber in line.
Thanks.

Every adjustment effects everything, so it is not a one and done process but more of a honing in process. You are correct on the order.

 

I ordered the S&T camber kit. Just have to remove all the fun stuff. Spring etc. I believe the driver side is ok and won't need the kit on it. Thanks everyone!

 

The bolt is still going through even if your weld were to fail so it would only get sloppy. No "News at Nine" moments!

 

Forgot to mention that I did the shelby drop, many years ago.

 

What is lacking on all the "DIY" alignment stuff is a) accuracy and, b) the ability to measure SAI. If you don't know what SAI is then you probably shouldn't be doing alignments.

 

measure SAI.

"Sai length is determined by the measurement from the tip of the index finger to the point past the triceps. "

 

 

What really helps is knowing the values of the shims. A 1/32" shim on one stud effects caster by 1/2°. 1/16" shim on both studs effects camber by 1/3°. When I did my 66 at first I didn't put any shims in. I measured a base caster and camber and shimmed what ever was off side to side. Then I made equal shim stacks for the front and rear studs for the control arms that were both equal in the size and number of shims. This way I already had a good idea of what caster and camber was going to be even without measuring. If nothing else I know both sides are equal. It also makes it easier down the road if I what to make adjustments.

Once you have camber set and you add a shim for caster, it's going to slightly change camber. Instead of adding a 1/16" shim for 1° caster, you can add 1/32" to the front and remove 1/32" from the rear. You have your 1/16" difference but camber remains the same. I also fold 3 mil black plastic contractors garbage bags up and put them under the tires to allow the suspension to unload. I also have the camber kit. I installed the -1° plate in as I recall. I set my alignment to 4° positive caster, 1.125° negative camber and 1/16" toe it. It seems to be the sweet spot on my car. Tires are wearing normally and the car drives great.

 

What really helps is knowing the values of the shims. A 1/32" shim on one stud effects caster by 1/2°. 1/16" shim on both studs effects camber by 1/3°. When I did my 66 at first I didn't put any shims in. I measured a base caster and camber and shimmed what ever was off side to side. Then I made equal shim stacks for the front and rear studs for the control arms that were both equal in the size and number of shims. This way I already had a good idea of what caster and camber was going to be even without measuring. If nothing else I know both sides are equal. It also makes it easier down the road if I what to make adjustments.

Once you have camber set and you add a shim for caster, it's going to slightly change camber. Instead of adding a 1/16" shim for 1° caster, you can add 1/32" to the front and remove 1/32" from the rear. You have your 1/16" difference but camber remains the same. I also fold 3 mil black plastic contractors garbage bags up and put them under the tires to allow the suspension to unload. I also have the camber kit. I installed the -1° plate in as I recall. I set my alignment to 4° positive caster, 1.125° negative camber and 1/16" toe it. It seems to be the sweet spot on my car. Tires are wearing normally and the car drives great.

Ok thanks. On the front left wheel I have +2 3/4 castor and -2.0 camber. I will need to reduce the camber down to -.5 So I need to add a shim to the rear bolt?

 

Ugh! No one told me how hard all this front end stuff is to remove for a 65 year old. Funny 30 years ago when I did this, I don't think I even broke a sweat. LOl
I have the S&T camber kit on the way + adjustable lower caster arms. Oh, don't forget the upper control arms ball joints, because I tore the rubber taking the arms off. Dang it. Oh well. If I didn't fubar something, I won't think I did anything at all...lol

 

Just imagine I have to do this to all 4 wheels on my street buggy, LOL and yes, I am not fond of shims either. Last time I had my alignment checked on the mustang there was one sitting down in the tray below the control arm. It was probably dropped though and didn't just fall out.

I don't like shims so much that I installed the variocentric camber adjustment kit that uses the plates on mine which was something of a pain in the rear grinding those slots out but its marvelous.