[HanShotFirst]

Hi Folks,

After talking with the folks at Chocostang today I ended up going with a kit they sell that includes the dual-bowl but not a power booster. Someone upgraded my mustang to power drums before I bought it and I'm wondering if I'm taking a step backwards in anyway by swapping to non-power discs?

Does anyone have any thoughts on this? It's a done deal so I'm going to be doing it either way I just want to know what to expect and if there is anything about this swap that is going to be less than desirable.

Also, when the time comes and I swap out the C4 for a toploader...will this setup still work or will I need to make brake mods at the same time as I mod the transmission?

Thanks in advance....

Kevin

 

[Guest]

If you think adding pedal pressure is stepping backwards, then you could say that. But especially with a small '66, I don't think you need power. Just having improved braking capacity is enough for me. YOu may feel different, that's why there are menus.

 

[66kcar]

No need to make changes to the brakes when going toploader.

 

[BOOTZ]

Im kinda in the same boat. Just haven't pulled the trigger on a kit yet.

I always wondered how that would work already having the booster.

What'd the kit cost you?

 

[22GT]

Power boost has zero effect on the brakes ability to stop the car.

 

[deandarien]

you'll love the disc brakes . no fading at high speed stops . I have non-power disc
brakes on my 66 gt ..... stop on a dime !

 

[cmefly]

Yep, like everyone said the Manual disc stops great on the Mustangs. I daily drive my little Falcon with the Kelsey Hayes manual disc brakes and it is easy to stop. You are not taking a step backwards but making an improvement on your brakes. remember the Factory 65/66 GT had Manual disc brakes.

 

[zray]

If you think adding pedal pressure is stepping backwards, then you could say that. But especially with a small '66, I don't think you need power. Just having improved braking capacity is enough for me. YOu may feel different, that's why there are menus.

I agree 100%. For a light car like the early Mustang, power brakes are not going to stop you any faster (Neither will a disc setup on the rear). Of course you will have increased pedal effort without a power assist, but not so much that you can't get used to it.

Z

 

[Dougy99]

Since gt had disc brakes, and ive got 4-wheel drum, can I use those in my 66 hardtop or am I having to go aftermarket front disc conversion?

 

[22GT]

Since gt had disc brakes, and ive got 4-wheel drum, can I use those in my 66 hardtop or am I having to go aftermarket front disc conversion?

You don't have to do anything. For nearly the first year, disc brakes were not available. That means early K code 289 High Performance cars didn't have disc brakes. The only difference is the discs were more resistant to brake fade. This would be a problem on the track. On the street, for a single panic stop, it makes no difference.

If you really want to go with discs, the stock 65-66 front disc brakes are available new.

 

[65 Pony]

I can give you some perspective on this, I think.

I drove a 67 C10 with manual drums for a long time. There was a lot of pedal effort. Enough to make your leg tired after a long drive. I added power discs and it was like driving a modern truck, easy pedal effort, with a huge difference in braking ability (shorter stopping distances with the discs, and my drums were in good working order.)

On the Mustang I had non power single bowl disc brakes. The pedal effort was not bad at all. Actually liked the feel. I wanted to eliminate the single bowl so upped to a dual bowl power kit. While the pedal effort has been reduced, it's really not by much.

You're braking will be greatly improved. I'm assuming you're worried about braking "feel." It's really not that different. You may even like the firmer pedal feel. My power kit almost feels too soft. The actual braking feels the same though because I already had the discs.

 

[zray]

"..........If you really want to go with discs, the stock 65-66 front disc brakes are available new.

Hopefully this is not nit-picking: the kit pictured is not a stock brake kit, with Kelsey Hayes components, etc. but is "as stock" with similar 4 piston calipers, a modern proportioning valve, and rotors that are comparable in size, but not appearance, to the stock rotors. It's a very nice kit, but not stock. It would perform as stock though, which is probably what was meant.

Z.

 

[Dougy99]

Since I have to replace the spindles/suspension due to the V8 swap, I'm trying to do things right the first time, while saving time, money, etc. I have the 4-lug drums which I don't mind, just looking for ease of maintenance, and what mechanically makes sense while I'll have everything apart, and upgrade to disc brakes, but if you guys don't think it matters, then I'll stick with drums. My goal is to have a respectable car, not something just thrown together.

 

[Guest]

You can add 4 lug disc brakes as well now. If you are not going to a V8, keep the 4 lug and decide about discs or drums.

 

[zray]

".........., but if you guys don't think it matters, then I'll stick with drums.........".

I wouldn't go that far to say it doesn't matter for street usage. Even keeping the 4 lug wheels, I thing you are better off with discs in front .

Z

 

[66kcar]

If you can swing the price and you have it apart anyway - get the 5 lug factory style system and call it done. While there are bigger, better brakes out there - they are best suited to a track car. Factory style with good pads will perform great on the street.

 

[65 Pony]

Since I have to replace the spindles/suspension due to the V8 swap, I'm trying to do things right the first time, while saving time, money, etc. I have the 4-lug drums which I don't mind, just looking for ease of maintenance, and what mechanically makes sense while I'll have everything apart, and upgrade to disc brakes, but if you guys don't think it matters, then I'll stick with drums. My goal is to have a respectable car, not something just thrown together.

If you're referring to my comments, you should reread them. I'm only referring to the pedal "feel" as not making much difference on an early mustang between power and non power (also read others comment similarly on here.) As far as disc vs. drum up front I am a FIRM believer in discs up front. I've driven disc and drum mustangs and the discs stop better. Also, if you don't have everything just right up front, it is possible for the car to pull to one side, or side to side, under a hard stop with drums.

 

[HanShotFirst]

Thanks for all the replies. Now I just can't wait to get them in the car. Mine has always pulled to the right since I got it and I haven't been able to fix that yet.

I'm doing another huge group of projects right now (windshield, drum rebuild in the back, disc conversion up front, new mid-eye leafs and shocks in the back, headliner, and passenger seatbelt) so I'll try to post as much as I can about how all that goes over the next couple weeks.

The kit I got was $750.00 or so including shipping to Vermont.

 

[Dougy99]

I'm going with disc conversion up front....trying to narrow it down to manu. I was thinking Willwood or Baer. All the research I've done it's around $700-$1150 for a standard/really good disc setup. I'll keep looking around cause I think will look dumb to have a 5 lug in front and 4 lug in rear.
What do you guys think????

 

[Guest]

Um yes. What are you doing with the car that will require $1000 front discs?