For your setup, no the lines are fine. Choosing the correct size input piston is a balancing act. What that means is, when you need more fluid displaced a larger piston will do that. But that larger piston generates less mechanical advantage, so the input pressure goes up. That is why in many cases the disc brake pedal has a different dimension from the pivot to the force. You are messing with two things at once. If you stay with a smaller piston, the advantage created is greater, more stopping power. But the offset is farther distance that the input piston must travel. That means your brake pedal moving farther. A smaller line will mean more fluid resistance as the fluid moves through, effecting the pressure you apply with the pedal. There's really a lot going on here, hydraulics are pretty cool IMO.

 

When adding the disc brakes I read that you should get a master cylinder with a 1" bore to compensate for the extra fluid needed, do you have to have different brake lines as well.

 

Greg, that's a nice flaring tool. I don't even have one that nice

 

Stainless isn't really necessary for a garaged car. Even though my car fits that category, I went ahead and fabricated my lines from stainless. Mild steel will work fine for you.

The biggest downside with stainless is that it can be harder to get a good seal since the metal is harder than mild steel. I used annealed stainless that is a bit softer so it was really easy to work with - and I have no leaks.

I have the Eastwood double flare tool that makes really nice flares in under 10 seconds, and they come out perfect every time. It looks like you aren't all that far from me, based on your profile location. If you need to fab up some lines, shoot me a PM - I've got the tubing benders and flare tool needed to make really nice lines.

This is the tool I have:

 

I have 4-wheel disk brakes on my 68 FB. I actually fabbed ALL of my lines for my car(s). With a GOOD inverted flare tool and a decent tubing bender, you should have no problem. I used the "armor coat" bulk brake line.

And yes, avoid the stainless. Its much more trouble than what its worth. (Its not so forgiving)

You'll be hard pressed to find pre-bent brake lines. Not sure how well the current pre-bent drum brake lines would work or match up.

 

^^You won't get a better answer than this one. There is good reason he emphasized the word GOOD with caps. I have "heard" that Master cool makes a good tool. It takes some practice to get nice double (now called inverted) flares, but it can be done. Check you tube for insight. Good luck.

P.S. I'm surprised no one has chimed in that 4 wheel DRUM brakes work just fine.


Bob

 

I wouldn't buy stainless. They are difficult to work with. The hard lines on the rear axle housing should be easy to fab.Just get some lines from the parts store.

 

I know I can't be the only one with 4-way power disc brakes!