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Backup Inline Electric Fuel Pump

7K views 7 replies 6 participants last post by  Woodchuck  
#1 ·
Here in the Arizona heat, it appears I have been running into vapor lock issues. It's not the fuel percolating out of the carburetor, but when I'm driving in 100+ heat, the engine starts surging and bucking like it's running out of fuel. If I back off the accelerator, the engine keeps running, but the speed drops way off as expected. The issue doesn't occur when I drive at night, or once the weather cools down. The other morning I was able to run it at WOT to over 100mph, and no issues.

I've been reading online on ways to combat this....insulate the fuel lines, quit running ethanol (not an option around here, unfortunately), clothes pins for heat sinks, run an electric fuel pump outside the tank to push the fuel, etc.

One article I found was where the owner of a older vehicle ran an inline fuel pump just outside the tank to push the fuel to the mechanical fuel pump on the engine. He had a switch mounted where he could activate the electric fuel pump when needed, i.e., hot weather and vapor lock, and then shut it off when the issue was resolved, or no longer needed. He stated that he had no more problems after that. It wasn't a high pressure, EFI type pump, but ran about 3 - 5 psi just to keep the fuel pushing through the lines to the mechanical pump. Unfortunately, the article was from about 2009.

Are there inline electric fuel pumps that can allow fuel to pass through when the pump is not running? Advice/ideas?
 
#2 ·
I doubt very much that the issue is the heat of the fuel between the tank and the pump but, rather, the pump and the carb. What the electric fuel pump is doing is overcoming the mechanical fuel pump's lack of ability once the fuel boils in the pump to carb line. That works if your carb can tolerate the increased pressure.

Having as much of the line from the pump to carb in steel and keeping it far away from heat sources might be all that is needed. I'd try that first but if you are still having issues an electric pump on a short parallel line with a check valve in the other line should allow unrestricted flow when the pump is off and prevent backflow when on.
 
#3 ·
Lee, do you have a carb spacer, how old is the fuel pump, and when was the last time you changed the fuel filter? It could be that you are also getting heat soak. I had a 1" carb spacer and all my issues with fuel went away when I installed it. It's worth trying as it would be the cheapest option to do. I have one that I don't need since I went EFI. Let me know.
 
#4 ·
I do have a 1/2" carb spacer installed, and not sure how old the fuel pump is. It's a Holley mechanical pump that works just fine when I'm not driving in 100+ degree weather! :) It's been a few miles since I changed the fuel filter, but at idle it stays full of fuel and flows just fine any other time other than middle of the day. If you want to get rid of the spacer to a fellow AZ member, just let me know and I'll send you my info via PM. I appreciate it.
 
#5 ·
Funny story- I had exactly the same problem on my '38 Ford flathead... well, lower speeds maybe, but same issue! lol. This old fart told me to put 13 clothes pins on the fuel line from the pump to the carb. No more- no less- 13 he said! I stole 13 from my wiff's bucket and clipped them on- it ran much better, no problems at all. I got curious though, so pulled 3 off to see what happened... problem returned! I added 3 back and it's good to go again. I haven't tried adding more- kinda enjoy prolonging the myth :wink:
 
#8 ·
See-through fuel filters and rubber lines between the pump and carb are giant heat absorbers. The suck in the heat and actually insulate the fuel from cooling when there is decent airflow under the hood. I just love seeing a big old plastic fuel filter sitting above a hot intake manifold, especially one that's mounted up front by the thermostat housing....like putting a saucepan on the range's burner.