Use the original bellhousing and a spacer plate OR use the xx-93 bellhousing. The 94-5 bell is longer because of the longer input shaft they used then. If you use the factory bellhousing you don`t need to change any of your clutch stuff.

 

Depending on your rear end ratio, consider a T5z as the first gear ratio in the typical T5 is mighty steep at 3.35. The T5z has a 2.95 first gear. With my 3.55 rear end I found myself needing to shift nearly immediately into second.

Many run the bell crank linkage with the t5. I would give that a go.

 

I replaced the T10 in my '65 with a T5z. I used the 5/8" thick adapter plate with the original bellhousing, clutch and mechanical clutch linkage.

 

This is by far the simplest way to do it, and likely the least expensive. Plus, in future, maintenance and repair parts are straight out of the year-correct manual. Think of it this way, the only thing not stock is the trans and shifter. The plate and crossmember are not moving parts, so don't effect wear.

 

I used a 94 WC T5 from a V6 Mustang. I had a thicker adapter plate made on a CNC machine to compensate for the longer input shaft. I suppose I could have swapped input shafts but making a adapter plate was more expedient since the shop had the CNC machine to make the adapter. It lined up with the shifter hump fine. I believe I had to have 1.5" removed from the drive shaft and had it rebalanced

The specs for the 94 V6 T5 were comparable to the 5.0 specs when it comes to durability.

 

The specs for the 94 V6 T5 were comparable to the 5.0 specs when it comes to durability.

Well, they were rated for 265 ft*lb of torque as were the lowest rated v8 T5s. Many T5s were rate between 300 and 310 ft*lb with the T5z at 330 ft*lb.

For simplicity a pre 1994 will be easiest to install.

Here is a list of the various T5s

 

Thanks folks. I will need to replace flywheel, clutch, bell, etc. So I can choose the ideal stuff.

I was going to buy an Astro T5 that's good for the mid 400s. It's available with either the long or short input.

Can you comment on how you would do it, if you were starting from a clean sheet of paper?

I'm wondering if the longer bell ends up placing the shifter better in the tunnel hole? Or does the shorter bell place it better?

 

Thanks folks. I will need to replace flywheel, clutch, bell, etc. So I can choose the ideal stuff.

I was going to buy an Astro T5 that's good for the mid 400s. It's available with either the long or short input.

Can you comment on how you would do it, if you were starting from a clean sheet of paper?

I'm wondering if the longer bell ends up placing the shifter better in the tunnel hole? Or does the shorter bell place it better?

You'll only need to replace the flywheel, clutch, bell, etcetera if yours are trashed. Most of the time, when using a pre-1994 T5, you don't even need to alter the driveshaft. I've seen early Mustangs with, say, a 3.03 3-speed converted to T5 in a few hours.

 

Thanks! Flywheel is 55 years old. Clutch is past it's "put it back in" point. So it seems like a clean start makes sense.

 

Inspection and condition are everything, and only you can determine that. The flywheel on my 289HP is a 55 year old original, but the last time it was out it required only a light surface grind to be ready for use. I have the Ram copy of the C7ZZ 289HP/BOSS 302 pressureplate and disc.

It's still a separate issue, however, since T5 conversion does not require removal of the bellhousing or clutch. If it's trashed, it should be replaced, naturally. I once saw a 4-speed to 5-speed conversion done in three hours because the clutch was not trashed. As you say, if there's any doubt then removal and inspection are a minimum part of the job, since it's so easy to do when the transmission is already out.

 

I went with a T5z (which has short input shaft), Lakewood scattersheild, aluminum flywheel, King Cobra style clutch, pro 5.0 shifter with vintage style Hurst handle+ball and a home fabricated clutch cable system. It fit the stock shifter location and required no special spacer between engine and transmission. It does take a starter for an automatic transmission car.

Clutch cable has worked fine for me with long tube Hedman Hedders.

 

I just did a T5z swap in my 65 using a Fox mustang bellhousing with the fulcrum adapter and a roller z bar setup from Opentracker. Works great, clutch isn’t too heavy and has great feel. The shifter came right up in the stock hole like it was made for it. I did end up having to shorten my driveshaft 1/2 an inch though.

 

Well almost the same thing I did---- fox body t5 and bellhousing,fulcrum adapter,stk z bar stuff,centerforce clutch. Shifter is just the tiniest bit towards the front of the hole. Mine started as a t10 car--i have not done anything to the driveshaft even though I have also put a nine inch in.

 

I'll add this, MDL (Modern driveline) makes a shifter (designed for a T5) to exit the factory tunnel location, pretty much, dead center. I know this as I installed their T5Z and shifter combo when I converted from a C4 to manual. The shifter is offset 1" by 1.5 inches to accomplish this. (rotated and setback) They call it a "Slik-Shift" and it accepts a period correct Mustang shift lever, although the "T" handle on the shifter is a dummy as it's not needed in a 5 speed.

 

GForce T5 for sale

I am selling my GForce T5 transmission. This has been an awesome transmission. It has proven to be very tough and reliable and still shifts like a stock T5. This unit was built in 2005 by Tony at Astro Performance, back before they made their own gear kits. In the summer of 2016 I went through...

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