I am getting my windshield reset and want to use the butyl tape since that seems like the right way to go. It comes in different thicknesses. I have a 69. What thickness should the tape be so that the exterior trim sits correctly?
71steed
Not a tape install, but a 3M glue... a glass shop should be able to advise..
https://youtu.be/k1sz64iq1ZM
https://youtu.be/k1sz64iq1ZM
3M 08509 bedding and glazing compound is what you want. Not sure how you'd seal it with tape unless you're not planning on using the gasket. It's not difficult to seal it up so it's leak free with the gasket and sealer.
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I would use 3M 08693. Well, that is what I use for glue in windshields. I think on the last one I had done, that is what the glass company used also. I use the 08509 for windshields or back glass with a gasket. I saw one utube video where they used 3m strip calk in the channel and then put t he gasket down on that. Not sure how well that would work but it might work fine. The used the 08509 inside the gasket to seal up the actual glass.
Generally the butyl tape is a cheap and quick solution favored by tightwad used car dealers. It usually leaks at some point, if not immediately. Urethane windshield glue is the correct stuff to use on 1969 and later windshields. If you don't want to monkey with it, most glass companies will send somebody around for a pretty reasonable price. Your local small time salvage yard likely knows someone who will do it cheaper than the big companies. It's worth considering. Windshield replacement is kind of nerve wracking for a newbie and can make a heck of a mess.
Windshields that use rubber gaskets take the glazing and bedding compound. In most cases the compound is required for a good seal. I recommend these be DIY. For some reason the pros who glue in windshields all day don't seem to do too well on old school rubber mounted glass. Many insist you don't need sealer. Mainly because the sealer is a messy pain in the butt and slows them down too much. They're used to glue-ins where they can plop the glass down and on the next job and so try to cut corners. At one time I could do eight windshields in one day, on a good day. In the long run the urethane glue used on rubber gasketing WILL be an issue, don't do that either. And that goes for silicone RTV too. UV makes most automotive RTV "rot" over time. There's some used on RV's for sealing purposes that holds up pretty well but... well, just look at such some time. You don't want that stuff on your car.
I saw mention of strip caulk above. Not really correct stuff to use but I suppose it's close enough to bedding compound to be used in similar situations. I wouldn't use it on glass but I guess you could.
I really don't like how-to videos, but I had a look and wasn't too impressed. I wouldn't have just dumped glue on the car like that. But you guys know how much I like old Mustangs, right? You might be surprised to learn that windshield glue doesn't really stick to finish paint that well. I have seen it simply lift away in long sections. 3M sells a primer you really ought to use first. If you look ANY original factory glued in windshield you will see black primer on the car. It's related to the black paint that's always on windshield glass. Lacking that paint (like on a used and "cleaned" up windshield) sometimes the urethane won't stick at all. The paint on the glass also provides UV protection for the urethane. On early glue-in cars, we had chrome trim that served the purpose. Windshield installer rule of thumb is that the very best base for new windshield adhesive is a thin remainder of the original adhesive stuck firmly stuck the the car.
And that's about all I have to say about that. For now.
Windshields that use rubber gaskets take the glazing and bedding compound. In most cases the compound is required for a good seal. I recommend these be DIY. For some reason the pros who glue in windshields all day don't seem to do too well on old school rubber mounted glass. Many insist you don't need sealer. Mainly because the sealer is a messy pain in the butt and slows them down too much. They're used to glue-ins where they can plop the glass down and on the next job and so try to cut corners. At one time I could do eight windshields in one day, on a good day. In the long run the urethane glue used on rubber gasketing WILL be an issue, don't do that either. And that goes for silicone RTV too. UV makes most automotive RTV "rot" over time. There's some used on RV's for sealing purposes that holds up pretty well but... well, just look at such some time. You don't want that stuff on your car.
I saw mention of strip caulk above. Not really correct stuff to use but I suppose it's close enough to bedding compound to be used in similar situations. I wouldn't use it on glass but I guess you could.
I really don't like how-to videos, but I had a look and wasn't too impressed. I wouldn't have just dumped glue on the car like that. But you guys know how much I like old Mustangs, right? You might be surprised to learn that windshield glue doesn't really stick to finish paint that well. I have seen it simply lift away in long sections. 3M sells a primer you really ought to use first. If you look ANY original factory glued in windshield you will see black primer on the car. It's related to the black paint that's always on windshield glass. Lacking that paint (like on a used and "cleaned" up windshield) sometimes the urethane won't stick at all. The paint on the glass also provides UV protection for the urethane. On early glue-in cars, we had chrome trim that served the purpose. Windshield installer rule of thumb is that the very best base for new windshield adhesive is a thin remainder of the original adhesive stuck firmly stuck the the car.
And that's about all I have to say about that. For now.
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