If I can't drive a car I discount what the owner says is wrong and assume there are ten other things that is not being disclosed...brakes, suspension, electrical, rusty tank....

If it was easy to fix, they would do it. It would have to be a screaming deal to get my interest.

 

This pretty much sums it up. Especially for a C/L ad.

 

it maybe more benificial for you to pay a local mechanic the ride over with you and check it out. what can they charge for an hour even if its $100 imo it will be $$$ well spent in your case

id be more concerned with rot and body work than an engine or tranny.

you can exchange one over the counter for under 2 grand so long as your not concerned with performance.

 

What year and model it? For example if I'm buying a car, collector or a 10 year old driver #1 is low to no rust shell. A great running bondoed and rusty chassis/structure car or openly rusted car I pass. Had enough rust over the years!

 

Take note of commenters. If they're in low rust areas like California or Arizona rust is low on their concern list. I'm in a rust belt, to me an engine or tranny is a drop in. The shell is the car!

 

Thanks, guys. Like GT350R mentioned, it if was easy to fix this guy would have done it already. I'm thinking I'll call the guy up first and see if he is going to be negotiable on the price. It is a two hour drive each way, so I'd rather skip it if this guy isn't going to budge. Then I can call around and see if a mechanic can come out.

 

Joe, it's a good idea to have a basis for your asking if seller will budge. If the shell/structure is bad and the engine is bad $0 may be too high!

I have a friend whose a Vintage Vette guy. He can put gas in the car, dunno if he can change a flat, possibly windshield wipers. To assume an owner would fix a car if it's easy
assumes a lot.

 

Assume the engine is blown and pay accordingly. If the seller doesn't like that, tough. They should get it running if they want "running car money."

If you really want to try to "save" the motor. Bring some large sockets and ratchet with you (or a battery to bump the motor over) to make sure it's free. Check the oil. Look for water, sludge, crap. Pull the spark plugs and look at their condition. All of them. It would be my luck I leave one in and that's the one with a blown piston. If you can sweet talk the seller into it, pull one valve cover as well.

Be polite about removing/reinstalling the plugs, etc, but if the seller refuses to let you check out the motor it's probably crap.

If the plugs look good, it turns over, there's no glitter, sludge, or other poo in the oil it may run with a little work.

 

AS far as figuring out how to get things running... you've found the biggest collection of knowledge right here. Make friends with the search function, and when that doesn't work... well, we like pictures and people here can help you work through just about any problem.

As far as the car itself... the engine, and tranny aside, because who really could guess what the deal is with them... Rust is going to be your enemy. Try using the search function on here using the keywords "worth it"? I'd be willing to bet 50% of those returns will tell you what to look for as far as rust goes. Also wouldn't hurt to see if there's anybody in the area that would take a look for you, or accompany you to look.

 

...Now my question is, how often is someone new to working on cars able to get an engine up and running?

Do you feel lucky? Lottery lucky?

Seriously, it's NOT likely you'll get it running right away. Especially since the owner couldn't get it running in 2 years.

And before that, who knows how long it sat?

A cautionary tale: http://www.southernwheels.com/Jan-03Frame1Source1.htm

 

JoeHSV, it sounds like you have a 1980s view of classic Mustangs. These days, the engine and drive train are very low on the priority list for an average Mustang project. (An exception would be a high-end car like a Boss or Shelby where the drive train is more important.) What you want to focus on is rust, rust, RUST!

Questions you should answer include:

- Are the frame rails rusted?
- Which body panels are rusted?
- Is the cowl rusted?
- Is the roof rusted?
- Does the car have previous, amateur/improper attempts to fix rust?
- Does the car have extremely thick body filler globbed on over dents and/or rust?

It's extremely unlikely you're looking at a rust-free car. If you are, buy it! It doesn't matter what condition the engine and drive train are in. Compared to fixing rust, a brand new engine and trans is peanuts and easy peasy.

If the car has a lot of rust, especially rusted frame rails, a 1966 Mustang is probably not worth any price for a beginner who can't fix rust himself.

On the other hand, a clean, rust free Mustang with a blown engine and trans is a great project for someone wanting to learn how to work on cars. So, if that's your objective, search, search, search for a rust free car or nearly rust free car. Whatever time and money it takes is more than worth it.

 

Took a recent risk on a 66 GT convertible that had the distributor in the trunk and a new carb on the engine. Assumed it would not run but the seller got it running between leaving a deposit and collecting the car yesterday.

Even if it is running the motor more than likely will need a rebuild. The cars body is everything to me. Unless it's a very nice car for nice car money, The main thing I am worried about is the cars body. Mechanicals are cheap compared to metalwork.

 

I look at as if any old car I buy is going to get a new engine and tranny anyway. I place the value on the condition of the body and interior which most often will get a revamp also. You have to consider most of the original motors and drive lines are near or past their life expectancy which renders them worthless. O)n the flip is the rare cars like Shelby's, Boss's, C.J.'s and so on where the original drive lines add a considerable amount of money.

 

I recently decided a running project car would be better, because I'm going to be working on this some with my son who is very interested in cars but young enough that he'll need to see results relatively quickly to stay interested. I'm thinking we can do things like put in a new carb and other smaller projects and we can learn how it all works, but still not have it sitting for months on end. Plus I'm not sure how my wife will handle giving up the garage for a non-working car.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_IlNbsILLE

 

I've sold off projects that were easy to fix because I had taken on too many at once. I sold a 1979 CB650, one of five motorcycles, with a minor a electrical problem (bad kill switch). Broke even on it and the guy who bought it had it running in couple of hours.

That may be an exception to the rule. But if the guy has twenty other Mustangs, is a homeowner, has a nagging wife, etc. you might be in luck. Spring and Fall seem to be when people move on from projects that are OK deals but no longer make sense for them personally.

 

The guy has the knowledge enough to say it is the carb. That most likely is not true but could be easy to test with some gasoline into the carb. I would look at the car as a car that would needed an engine. I would not try to get the car running in front of the guy and state that you are buying the car with the thought that you will need a new engine unless the guy could show you engine was working. If I was selling the car, I would have some gas or starting fluid to show the car would ignite. As far as buying a car with no mechanic ability, some people take to it quickly and some don't. Was lucky when I was 14 or 15 family friend taught me how to work on cars whne he did work on parents car.