[md02geist]

Is frost king asphalt based?

 

[toby]

I've used both dynamat extreme and fatmat on my 69. Fat mat does not begin to compare to the quality and performance of dynamat. Farman is VERY thin in comparison and does not stick as well. Some of the fatmat has peeled off in certain areas. And yes, I made sure the surface was clean before applying. Dynamat is a much better product. My brother used the Eastwood stuff on his falcon. Very similar to dynamat and I would use it if I didn't want to use dynamat. I would recommend you only apply this stuff to large flat panels. No need to apply it all over. As other have stated, panels with curves or near welds will not have vibration issues. Amazon had the best price for dynamat. Here's a link to what I bought. $135 for 36sq. ft.
Dynamic Control 10455 Dynamat Xtreme 36 Sq Ft Bulk Pack; 9 Sheets 18x32:Amazon:Everything Else

 

[69Mach390]

And who might "they" be? I guess they must also believe you can use materials made for sound deadening for thermal insulation, and vice versa??

Speaking from personal experience, there's enough of a difference that I would not use Frost King. JMHO

That's the thing, frost king is made for both thermal insulation AND sound deadening. It's right in the description:

"Helps prevent heat loss or cooling loss
Stops vibration "

There's definitely a difference between the two. But for my dollar, Frost King works plenty well.

There's no real magic to sound deadening. It's just putting something there to stop the vibration. You could stuff a bunch of old t-shirts under your carpet and it would make a difference. (not suggesting anyone does that).

And price isn't the only advantage to Frost King, it also weighs SIGNIFICANTLY less than dynamat.

 

[buening]

Testing on fatmat and peel n seal resulted in the same physical and dampening characteristics. Essentially fatmat is close if not the same thing as peel n seal. With that said, they are asphalt based and basically suck at sound deadening. You most definitely get what you pay for, BUT buying the most expensive one doesn't mean it is the best. Here is a link to some testing done on various deadeners. The results aren't very novice-friendly, but if you learn to read the graphs you can make your own conclusions. Sound Deadening (CLD) Testing - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum

Words of wisdom when buying deadener, is to get one that is a quality butyl and buy the kind that comes in sheets and not in a roll. If it is in a roll, it is typically either asphalt based or a very poor butyl. Dynomat Xtreme, Second Skin Damplifier Pro, Cascade, Sound Deadener Showdown CLD tiles, and Alphadamp are some of the better ones.

I also recommend reading the basics on here: Welcome to Sound Deadener Showdown | Sound Deadener Showdown to learn about closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl, if you are serious about deadening your car.

 

[69Mach390]

Is frost king asphalt based?

foil and foam.

 

[65 Pony]

Testing on fatmat and peel n seal resulted in the same physical and dampening characteristics. Essentially fatmat is close if not the same thing as peel n seal. With that said, they are asphalt based and basically suck at sound deadening. You most definitely get what you pay for, BUT buying the most expensive one doesn't mean it is the best. Here is a link to some testing done on various deadeners. The results aren't very novice-friendly, but if you learn to read the graphs you can make your own conclusions. Sound Deadening (CLD) Testing - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum

Words of wisdom when buying deadener, is to get one that is a quality butyl and buy the kind that comes in sheets and not in a roll. If it is in a roll, it is typically either asphalt based or a very poor butyl. Dynomat Xtreme, Second Skin Damplifier Pro, Cascade, Sound Deadener Showdown CLD tiles, and Alphadamp are some of the better ones.

I also recommend reading the basics on here: Welcome to Sound Deadener Showdown | Sound Deadener Showdown to learn about closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl, if you are serious about deadening your car.

I did the same research. I ended up buying Dynamat extreme. When my car was restored, the PO spent some $ trying to make it "correct." They even had the factory peel and stick paper backed mastic stuff installed in 2006. When I removed it in 2013 it was a stiff board that came up in big chunks. I believe that it's similar to the other non butyl products. Anything asphalt based will eventually dry out and harden.

This is something you will only do to your car ONCE. Do it right. If you pay more than ~$270 with free shipping for 72sf of dynamat you over payed.

I did my entire floor, trunk, firewall, a little in the quarter area, and both doors with 72 sf. I was not able to do my ceiling because it already had a new headliner installed. My wife even commented on how much quieter my car was.

 

[ScottsGT]

I used FatMat. I certainly hope it does me some good. I can't tell with it sitting in the garage though.

 

[Varilux]

Worth it. Dynamat Extreme in my '65... Definitely cuts down on the noise AND the heat. Doing it over again, I would either use Dynamat or the Eastwood product.

Whatever you go with, I would highly recommend using it as the vapor barrier on the doors as well (my doors have a lovely solid feel/sound thanks to the Dynamat).

 

[buening]

You bring up a good point. Put a sheet of dampener on the door skin that is approximately 25-50% of the total area of the skin, as well as cover the door between the door panel and the door steel. I would still recommend the vapor barrier, as you probably want the openings of the door cut out from the deadener layer in case you need to access the inside of the door.

 

[RC 65 A Code]

If you've read any actual comparison reports on the two, they actually disagree with what you said.

It comes quite close to the performance for a fraction of the price.... if your goal is to reduce road noise.

If your goal is to create a competition car stereo car, yeah, go ahead and drop a few hundred dollars on the good stuff.

If not, Frost King duct insulation: 15 sq ft for $18
Shop Frost King 12-in x 180-in Insulated Aluminum Duct at Lowes.com

I went with this on my coupe, seems to work well, great improvement, but I can't compare it to other stuff.

 

[Cobra6]

I vote go for both. The factory underlayment makes a huge difference, but you can add to that with the other sound deadener as well. I wouldn't go with Dynomat, as it is really expensive for what you get.

You've got a bunch of options depending on what you're looking to get out of it. If you have the time and the cash, I would personally go with Lizard Skin. It's sprayable heat and sound deadening and kind of sprays out like a bedliner (instead of being peel-n-stick). No chance of water getting in there and causing rust, looks nice, and you can get really good coverage. It's expensive but I believe it's still cheaper than Dynomat for the coverage you get.

If you're just looking to dampen noise by reducing panel vibrations, keep in mind that you don't have to cover the full surface of the panel to achieve that. You can do a lot of good for a lot less money by covering only half of the panel in strategic locations (usually the center, where the metal is far away from weld points and thus more likely to vibrate).

Also - don't forget to stick undercoating in the doors, wheelwells, and quarters. From factory these cars had a really thick undercoating in those areas to reduce panel vibration and noise. Spraying an empty door shell with thick undercoating makes an enormous difference between it sounding like a tin can and sounding like a Cadillac when closed!

Kelly has the best approach here -
This is about what I did - used undercoating, Reflectix in heat areas to keep heat out, B-quiet sound deadening mats, and the original underlayment.
A lot of this is discussed in the Sound Deadener Showdown I linked to earlier.

 

[frankstang65]

Try Fatmat I used it about 7 years ago and it has held up just fine. Its really affordable .

Here is the link.

Sound Deadener Products FatMat Dynamat Xtreme Alternative | FatMat Sound Control?

 

[hitek14]

45 mil Firestone EPDM butyl pond liner, glue it down in one piece, lay a thermal insulator over it then your jutt and carpet. 10x10 is 80 bucks. If you have ever handled a butyl pond liner its heavy stuff and will mold any shape you want and it won't crack or disinagrate in your lifetime . It will deaden sound for sure

 

[GT_SCODE]

I used second skin damplifier on the floor and spectrum in the wheel wells and rear quarters. The stuff is awesome!!


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[65MustangGT]

45 mil Firestone EPDM butyl pond liner, glue it down in one piece, lay a thermal insulator over it then your jutt and carpet. 10x10 is 80 bucks. If you have ever handled a butyl pond liner its heavy stuff and will mold any shape you want and it won't crack or disinagrate in your lifetime . It will deaden sound for sure

How much weight did that add to the car? Seems like you're sacrificing weight for cost.

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[hitek14]

5x10 is about the amount used give or take, my guess is about 10-15 pounds or so. 10-15 pounds isn't going to slow me down. I already had the car in upol bedliner which may have made some difference used some rubber cement made for butyl rubber and attached it cleanly to the floor and firewall. I did some minor testing on sheetmetal prior to and you could hear a difference. Now its not going to help for heat although it will handle plenty and I haven't layered it with insulator yet so I can't comment on that. I'll get back to ya. Plus its one solid piece in the car, no joints to leak sound if that's possible or even happens.

 

[88cougargt]

I have a layer of dynamat over the entire floor, 2 layers over the wheel wells. I installed a layer of Reflectix over that. Two layers over the tunnel and two over the rear seats.

I get excellent heat rejection, but most my noise comes from wind noise in the front of the car and my rock hard corner window seals.

 

[Cardinal Flyer]

Another Factor....

.......to consider that should be given at least as much attention as cost, weight and decibel reduction is flammability. I'm not familiar with "Frost King", but in searching for a product to use on my Cardinal I have seen low cost/low weight sound & heat insulation that reacts to flame just like gasoline! This is particularly a concern with products that use bubble pack-type construction!
Probably not a major concern with rubber or lead-based products, and I imagine the adhesives used on peel & stick are sufficiently protected from flame by the panel they are adhered to and the rubber/lead insulator.
FWIW, I used RaamAudio on my 01 Vette Vert and it worked wonders!
:cheers:

 

[jjfish]

Didn't see it mentioned here, but what about the adhesive quality. Particularly for the roof and doors. I'm concerned if the glues can take the heat of the sun beating down on the roof.

 

[hitek14]

Didn't do the roof, just insulation. Unless its raining I can't see a sound difference.