IIRC you could leave the old piece at the shock tower on or cut it off, which ever you prefer.

 

Yes, the bolts you have will do. I like to use new bolts, though.

 

Varilux,

While not the most efficient way, I used large/thick screw drivers, chisel and a hammer to break the metal around the spot welds and then used my dremel to cut what was left off. Like I said, not the prettiest way, but it got the job done without killing myself and it took about 10 mins or less a side to complete. My engine bay is a mess right now, but looks so much better without the chicken wing looking stubs below the nice new export brace.

 

I just used a spot cutter on mine. The previous owner chopped it off, but left the spot welded tabs on the tower, which I didn't like. If you know of a body supply store in the area, get a spot weld cutter for like $20, super handy tool. Just drill the thickness of the metal (don't go all the way through), then pry it up and if there is a little remnant of weld it should pop it out. Grind smooth and move forward.

 

As others have said, you can install the brace over the brackets and reuse your hardware.

The easiest way to remove the brackets is to drill out the spot welds that hold them to the shock towers.

 

Remove the brackets, it looks better. Just my $0.02 worth.

 

Remove the brackets, it looks better. Just my $0.02 worth.

Agree 100%! I left mine on the coupe for awhile thinking I'd leave them if I ever went back to stock. Just bugged me every time I looked at them, so off they went!

 

I would recommend getting a spot weld cutting bit. It's a good tool to have in the arsenal anyways. Then they can be removed cleanly. Thats what I did, but then again my motor was out so it was easier with all the room to work.

 

Yep. I used my spot weld cutter, then a sharp cold chisel and finally my Dremel with a grinding wheel. It took about 15 minutes to do both sides. Didn't need to do anything but give a squirt with semi-gloss.

 

Thanks everyone! Sounds like drilling out the spot welds is the way to go. That will be a new skill for me to acquire, and it looks like Harbor Freight has an inexpensive bit- so we'll give it a go.

Looking forward to this weekend and getting the front end more solid. To be honest, I think it drives fine- but I'm sure the addition of the brace and thicker sway bar will make improvements I don't even anticipate!

Oh, and if I have time I have Ford Racing P Springs to install in the rear of the 2014 GT that shares garage-space with my '65. I need to install an UCA in the rear of that as well- the car has all kinds of wheel hop (not a problem in the '65, since it has less than a quarter of the HP ).

 

Bits, a hardened tool, pry bar or most electrical things are exactly what NOT to but from HF. A little touch with the grinder, a cold chisel and pry bar will do it, then a little grinding smooth. Did it a few months ago, less than 10min per side and i work slow.

 

I do not buy much from HF but you can find diamonds in the rough. Their spot weld cutters have an excellent reputation. I've never used one but many here swear by them.

 

Keeping those tabs is really stupid.
Stan

 

Keeping those tabs is really stupid.
Stan

+100

Stupid and lazy.

 

Well, I've never been in a Harbor Freight, so it will be interesting to stop by on my way home from work. Plan to get a weld cutter bit and a bottle jack (just in case installing the export brace requires some "persuasion").

 

A big thumbs up for the HF spotweld cutters. I bought a few when I needed to do fender apron, core support, & partial floors, thinking I would burn through them. One cutter did the whole job. Very impressed. Use a center punch to start the hole, and some lubrication never hurts...

MrFreeze

 

I heard someone say that leaving them would add additional strength. LOL
Stan

 

Not trying to hijack the thread but this is on the same topic. How about if you install an export brace on a 65 convertible, do you still need the secondary tubular bracing that connects the firewall to the side aprons?

 

How about if you install an export brace on a 65 convertible, do you still need the secondary tubular bracing that connects the firewall to the side aprons?

From what I have learned on the VMF forum, the convertible tubular bracing was added for vibration issues related to customer complaints.

I have added both, the export and Monte Carlo bar and deleted the convertible tubular bracing……but will have to go with one of those mini 1 bbl air cleans due to interference issues between the stock air cleaner and Monte Carlo bar.

 

The pic shows about half of my selection of tools but even fewer available attachments for them......I'm heavy into die grinders.
The blue jobbie at the upper part of the pic is an electric Makita.....I round filled my Dremel toys about 10 years ago. A large selection of "attachmnet" are made for the 1/4 inch chuck, not the least of which are carbide rotary cutters (one shown attached to the air powered grinder up front). hook that up with the Malkta and you cut your car in half.The makita spin at 20K rpms (non adjustable). This is no toy and not cheep @ 90ish bucks, There are rotary carbide"files' or both steel & aluminum. The steel jobbies make short work of spot welds.

ook