First, take lots of before pics. Start with a large surface with a an old towel to lay out the parts. I've used both cleaners and carb cleaner too, depending on how dirty. I'm not familiar with that carb or kit, but, the basics are the same for all. Take your time, have good tools, Take lots of pics.

 

Order the kit and all your parts from Mike’s carburetors. Best kits you can buy. The work is not hard. Most important is getting all the little passageways super clean. Use Carb cleaner with the little hose the clean them all well.

 

Another vote for Mike’s kits. I also picked up some standoffs off eBay, made the rebuild easier with the carb stable on the table.

 

Use compressed air to blow out every single air bleed, oriface, passageway, everything. Measure your float heights and record them, compare against the instructions/specs. And, as previously mentioned, take pics and notes.

 

If i just remove the float and reuse the same float without bending it, will it go back at the same height? How do you typically adjust the height on the float? By bending the little arm that its on?

 

Easy rebuild. I soak my carbs in Gunk or similar. Does a nice job cleaning. Then blow all passages really well with compressed air. Three tips:

Read and reread the factory shop manual before beginning.

Mark throttle plates left/right and top side/bottom side before disassembling. Drain fuel, back out idle screw, hold carb up to light and note the amount of light shinning past the plates. Assuming they're currently adjusted properly there should be minimal daylight shining past. When reassembling tighten screws loosely, align plates in bores such that you see minimal daylight, then tighten screws. Plates have a bevel on one side. They can be installed upside down and crooked resulting in throttle not fully closing and minimum idle being too high.

The other thing to look at is the accelerator pump rod. If this is a "long snout" carb with separate 1/4" rod between the lever and the diaphragm, make sure it slides without binding within the accelerator pump housing cover bushing. If the accelerator pump does not actuate smoothly it'll result in stumbling pulling away from a stop. Photo in post #8 is NOT the long snout version. Long snout is the earlier design.

Good luck.

 

First, the work area should be operating room clean. I keep the screws and parts separate, choke, air horn screws, bowl etc. Don't remove the throttle shaft unless the bore is worn. And very important is don't overtighten the screws.

 

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLhLZF8-_vV6MJxCsEXASOSr5qqS_w3y-r

 

I highly recommend picking up something like this

Amazon.com

Be sure and take your time to clean out every hole, these small holes tend to plug up easily especially with ethanol fuel. Carb cleaner most of the time won't work by itself.

Other then that pretty simple. Everything super clean is the objective!

Good luck!!

 

Know exactly where every passage in the carburetor goes and what it does. Some good videos on Mikes carburetor web site for this. Spray carb cleaner through every passage to be sure it sprays out the other end, you will know where this is by abiding by my first sentence. Sometimes the small plugs on the carb must be removed to properly clean passages. I’ve had to slightly grind down paper clips to clean passages. Good luck.

 

I just rebuilt this one, original to my 1966 Fairlane 500 convertible

 

I just rebuilt this one, original to my 1966 Fairlane 500 convertible

View attachment 858000

did you soak it in anything? and if so what?

 

One of the more important jobs related to rebuilding the carburetor is the choke piston and making sure that it moves smoothly within the bore of the housing. This gets very dirty over time and affects the operation of the choke. There is a Welch plug in the end of the piston bore that ideally is removed for proper cleanout. New ones are available through Mike's. Pay attention to the proper procedure for bench adjusting the choke. This remains the most confusing element of these excellent carburetors.

 

Think I'm going to have to go to Mikes website. I just rebuilt the carb on my 57 T-Bird and I cannot get it to idle right or stay running when put in gear (it's an automatic). I kept all my old seals and matched the old to the new and made sure everything went back together as it came apart. I adjusted the floats and fuel just barely comes out the side bowl hole. So, those are right. I can get it to idle if I adjust the throttle blade, but then it idles too high. Even if I put the car in gear while holding the brake and giving it gas it dies. It will not stay running in gear.

My brother said to check the idle circuit, but I know very little about carburetors and will have to see if Mike's website addresses this issue. A lot of people swear by them, but I ****ing hate carburetors. Give me EFI any day of the week.

OP, I tried to put everything back as it came apart, but it is obvious I missed something or something is not adjusted right.

Make sure you go through everything and take your time. Because it really sucks to do all this work and your car runs even worse than it did when you started the rebuild.

 

Is that a Holley 4000, by chance? They are tricky if so...

 

Two important things to know about the 2100 come to mind for me:

1) do not overtorque screws, but especially on the accelerator pump. You will distort the 'ears', and it will leak. Then the only cure is to file them down so it's flat, but that weakens the housing, and makes it have more problems

2) When you take out the booster assembly, there is probably a rod in there, and very possibly a check ball. If you aren't aware of this, you will lose them both as they shoot out, hit the ground, and vanish from this plane of existence. The kit may very well have the check ball, but it will not have the little weight rod. I've heard it said that you can cut and sand a piece of welding rod and substitute this for the original, but better you just don't lose it in the first place.

 

After taking loads of photos, disassemble, inspect and buy the parts needed, soak everything you are keeping in a mix of 50/50 water and pine sol. Yes regular pine sol is amazing at cleaning carbs - it’s dirt cheap and works better than expensive carb cleaners and carb bathes. I soaked 4 of mine and in about 6 hrs they looked brand new with minimal brushing and rag wiping. Don’t waste your money, time, or tears with auto parts store products…. Get the mega bottle of pine sol at Target and soak them suckas.
Oh and take loads of photos again, from all angles.
Good luck

 

Lots of great tips. You can't go wrong. Let us know how it turns out.

 

A couple more "hints".

a. DO NOT LOSE THE CHECK BALLS AND WEIGHTS!
b. Examine the condition of the throttle shafts and bores where they pass through the housing.
c. Check the "flatness" of the base, top and cover. You can "true up" using a sheet of emery and a positively flat surface, like a piece of plate glass.
d. DO NOT "run" passages with a sharp wire. If you can find plastic guitar string or monofilament, great. I sometimes use wire, but I deburr the end so it can score the soft metal.
e. Examine the mixture screws and replace if they're damaged or worn.
f. Examine the emulsion tubes. They CAN be repaired/replaced if you have the skills and patience.... like what it takes to build detailed models, etc.
g. As stated already, pay particular attention to the de-choke piston and its bore to make sure if moves freely without binding.
h. If you're going to be "thrashing" the car around, like autocrossing or "spirted" driving, get an "anti-slosh" or "damper" spring for the float.

 

A couple more "hints".

a. DO NOT LOSE THE CHECK BALLS AND WEIGHTS!

Um… I’ve done that. I bet you have too 🤪