What is the brand of your clutch & pressure plate? Have you attempted to clean the surface with a brake cleaner etc.?
Any signs of rear seal seepage?

 

Quite possible the flywheel wasn't resurfaced 'squarely'. I've not had good luck with resurfaced flywheels and
end up buying new instead.

 

Is that a shadow from the angle of the photo, oil or just discoloration? If it’s discoloration I would say it wasn’t machined squarely

 

Look for hard spots on the flywheel. They are small raised spots that can cause clutch chatter.

 

“Progressively got worse and worse” Check your universal joints on your drive shaft.

cheers,
~Earl J

 

A properly resurfaced flywheel will have a cross hatched appearance. This is referred to as 'Blanchard cut or grinding'. Brian

 

Any chance you didn't keep the transmission perpendicular to the clutch while installing the bolts? If you let weight pull down on the back of the transmission you can actually tweak the clutch disc and it no longer runs true causing the issue you are having. It is one of the reasons I have really long studs I made to install in the top holes of the bellhousing so once I get the tranny in place I can just push it into the clutch and support the back keeping it flush to the bellhousing while I get the bottom 2 bolts in and snug, then I remove one stud at a time an install that bolt.

 

@Brian Conway's flywheel looks like a freshly refinished flywheel, @66inVA's does not. Every part I've machined or had machined has a pristine surface without any discoloration.

 

The OP's picture is after 100 miles. You can see the machine marks across the whole face. The marks are from the clutch disc running on the new surface. He likely has a warped clutch disc.

 

Thanks for all the input everyone. I’m going to put in a new flywheel and replace the clutch. I have no idea what happened with the install

 

Have a photo of the pressure plate and both sides of the disc?

 

UPDATE:

So I took the car to a reputable shop and they put in a brand new flywheel and brand new McCloud clutch. They also replaced the motor mounts because they were cracked and they found that the front U joint was loose so they replaced that. Car drove great for about 30 miles and then the chatter started coming back. At first it wasn't too bad, but the more I drove it it the worse it got. I'd say I've got about 50-60 miles total on it so far and now it's like a violent shudder taking off in first. All the other gears are fine, but I'm scared to death to drive it. I have to rev it up high and slowly feather the clutch just to get mitigate the shudder.

So this is the 2nd time this has happened. Car drives fine for the first 20-30 miles and then the shudder starts coming back getting progressively worse. Any ideas as to what might be going on here? Are there any other components that could possible be causing this issue? I'm planning on trying to get the car back to the shop this week and will have them inspect it, but I'm wondering if there is something else that's getting overlooked.

 

I went through the same thing and eventually took it to shop. What they found was excessive crankshaft endplay. That was the cause.

 

Thanks. Was that an expensive fix?

 

Not really, just bearings and thrust washers.

 

"Was that an expensive fix?", it's a more labor intensive. With the engine in the car, one has to pull the pan, pull the caps, remove and replace the bearings, including the thrust washers (center cap) However, the" thrust" (forward/backward) clearance (crankshaft end play) needs to be checked and within a specified parameter. I don't think it can be checked properly with the transmission/clutch etc., installed. As one has to physically move the crankshaft forward and backwards. Could it be your engine is needs a rebuild? What's the history?