In my 1971 Mustang I have the 9" with small bearings and a 31-spline axle. I used Strange's sealed bearings. They lasted about 12,000 miles, 3 years and about 30 AutoX events and 6 track days. I had this noise coming from the rear end and after further inspection the outer bearings were cracked at the housing and were wobbly. After some research I figured that the ideal setup is a large bearing housing with tapered bearings. Unfortunately they don't make tapered bearings for the small bearing axle. For now I will make sure to replace the bearings at the end of the season. For the long term I may look into a big bearing axle. The issue is that upgrading the housing also means replacing the brakes so it adds up quickly. Any thoughts or experience to share?
tony-muscle
Ford 9" rear axle with small bearings for Autocross or Track use?
Cobra Automotive has tapered rollers bearings for small (2.835") bearing rears in 2 axle OD sizes, 1.531" and 1.562".
Call @Shaun @ Street or Track if anyone knows he does. Also fun to talk to and will guide you through what your next steps might be. You can guess from my sig what i think.
I had Quick Performance build me a Torino Big bearing housing for the A20 tapered roller bearings. The Torino big bearing is a ball bearing type bearing but is the same od as the A20. The A20 is the F150 bearing. In my case I got their axles and had I not asked for the A20 bearings they would have shipped the Torino style ball bearing. All in all a very nice set up and good price. Worth a call!
Quick Performance: Differential Parts & Components
Quick Performance: Differential Parts & Components
If you are going to continue auto X and tracking the car, do your self a favor and skip the big bearing, go straight to the full floater. Progression is, track 2 times a year, bearings start to wear, then big bearings and track 4-8 times a year along with bigger tires motor and brakes, then the bearing retainer starts to move and you tack weld it to the axle. The whole time brake pad nock back is becoming an issue as you work on threshold braking, so you start putting springs in ur caliper pistons and indexing ur rotors to negate run out. Then finally after building 2 housings you get the floater and realize it is not any more than a semi floater. we can talk transmissions, motors or brakes if want. good luck. There are many on this forum that have been down this road
Thank you for your input @Mutang and @maxoverclock .
I had to read a bit to understand what we are talking about. It makes sense.
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With these, is there a larger space between the axle ends and the wheel hub?
In this picture from Moser it seems that the wheel offset is larger, but it is hard to figure if it is just a matter of the picture.
![Image]()
I had to read a bit to understand what we are talking about. It makes sense.
With these, is there a larger space between the axle ends and the wheel hub?
In this picture from Moser it seems that the wheel offset is larger, but it is hard to figure if it is just a matter of the picture.
got mine from these guys. 9 Inch Ford Floater Rear Ends from Schreiner Enterprises (9inchfloater.com) call them up and let them know the weel mounting surface distance from side to side. They may be able to put together a bolt in housing for you, Mine needed brackets welded on so I did all that myself. Shaun @ ST could send you a bolt in housing for a bit more than Schreiner. If you like to work on your car, setting up a new housing is no big deal.
Do any of you with full floaters run cambered spindles? I just read these are an option. I am curious have they make these to work.
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