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Fuel filter...need help

2.1K views 24 replies 14 participants last post by  Woodchuck  
#1 ·
So this setup seems like a death trap to me...but the shop that did it said they needed too due to the carb that was installed.
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So figured I would ask on here since they seem either lazy or just stupid. Mostly asking just about the fuel line and right/better ways it could be handled. I know the engine bay is a mess overall but one issue at a time.
 
#11 ·
I don't know what area you're in, but if you are in driving distance to me I'd clean up that engine bay (including your line and filter set-up) for free.
 
#14 ·
No regulator needed w/ the 65 pump or any additional filters. Hard line to carb.
 

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#17 · (Edited)
Seen that same stupid lawnmower fuel filter burn a 1968 Bronco to charred metal. Fire department got there just as it was running out of fuel and dying down. Nothing left. Should have seen the glass. That was the coolest part.

If you have a fire under your hood, don't open it. Try to spray an extinguisher up from underneath. Opening the hood causes the explosion. It smolders with the hood closed, eating it's own oxygen, then you open it, oxygen rushes in, the fire instantly produces energy, bursting things (like plastic fuel grenades), aerisolizing accelerants... Then you'll never put it out without 5000lbs of water. Or sand. If there'd been a dump truck, he could have dumped his load on it. Would have been worth it.

I arrived as he opened the hood. I trierd to think of everything I could to save that Bronco. Two moving blankets turned to ash like they were made of gasoline (thought I could smother it). Got burnt a little. Worst part, seeing the hook and ladder a mile down stuck in traffic from the fire.

Your instincts are spot on. Don't use that filter. :ROFLMAO:

I made my own -6an feed line from the pump with male/male -6an filter.
 
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#19 · (Edited)
I have an Edlebrock carb with that "L" shaped fuel line and filter kit. I also have a fuel pressure gauge there, Then I have AN fitting braided stainless fuel hose from there down to the pump and a regulator installed on the pump outlet. Seems most pumps these days have a higher pressure than they did back in the day.

I will try to post some pictures tomorrow.

I would like to and probably eventually will install a hard line in place of the braided stainless steel hose, but it works pretty good.

Having that fuel line zip tied to the radiator hose seems like something an old stereo shop would do. Can't imagine any shop would do that even Jiffy Lube.
 
#20 ·
You thought they might be either stupid or lazy? How bout both lol. Finding the right garage or individual to work on a car like this is tough but not impossible. Ask around at car shows, join a car club, find local help from folks on VMF, etc. I have to remind myself that not all classic car owners have the time, tools, physical or technical ability, desire, garage, whatever to restore or maintain what they own. Hopefully, you can follow the advice on the post and do the job yourself with local help, but if you have to pay someone to do it, I get wanting it done right, which means it's expensive.
 
#21 ·
It's a doggone shame it costs an arm and a leg for a shop to do the kind of stuff I do for fun 🤣
I always enjoy making an engine bay look clean and as close to new as I can. It doesn't cost much, it's just time-consuming.
 
#22 ·
Off topic, read at your own risk:

Time is the most valuable commodity. That’s what most people have to sell, not products. A Ford factory worker isn’t selling Fords, he or she is selling their time. The Ford stockholders are selling a product.

People that restore their own car have the luxury of using spare time. Counting up every hour we spend on a quality restoration and value that time at even as little as $10 per hour. It adds up really fast. Before long we would be way upside down on the car’s marketplace worth.

Restoration shops have to pay mortgages, send their kids to college, and pay food bills with what they charge customers. Their skill set is undervalued when compared to what other professionals earn.

Z
 
#23 ·
Just as an update to this thread I ended up purchasing Mr. Gasket Chrome Gas Lines 29883, Carter Mechanical Fuel Pumps M4009, and a new fuel line from pump to carb. Once I get all the pieces will get the connector figured out but hopefully it all goes well from here. I am thinking of putting a gauge on the mr. gasket line since does appear to have a spot, so I can keep an eye on the psi, haven't looked into what would work well but it does seem like progress either way. Thanks for everyone that responded.
 
#24 ·
“…..I am thinking of putting a gauge on the mr. gasket line since does appear to have a spot, so I can keep an eye on the psi, haven't looked into what would work well but it does seem like progress either way. Thanks for everyone that responded.
Be aware that underhood liquid filled fuel pressure gauges are very inaccurate once the engine bay has heated up. The better quality gauges , like AutoMeter, detail that in the instructions.

So take your pressure reading while the engine is still cold. Then when the engine is hot disregard whatever the gauge is displaying.

Things like A / F ratio and fuel pressure are best taken in context, and for troubleshooting an issue.

if your car is running great, don’t get hung up on the numbers. Just enjoy what you have and don’t try to fix a problem where there isn’t one.

Z