If you're not building too much power in the car and once it's stuffed with a wheel stud, it will probably be just fine.

 

I'm nor building the engine up really. I'm just cruising this car around. I figure it would be ok but I don't know why they would drill one that way and this one looking like that. I'm going to call them tomorrow and see what can get done. I'm sure it will be a back and forth with them. Hope not though.

 

I wouldn’t worry about it, still enough meat for a stock engine. They probably just forgot to center it up. Definitely not optimum, but there is no good way to fix it. Unless you are ready to fight to get a replacement axle, it would consider living with it.

 

I was going to have them pay for shipping to and from and fill the holes again and redrill. But since that's been done once already I'm not sure if that would a good idea or not.

 

Welding the holes and redrilling is more likely to cause a problem than running it like it is.

 

I’d run it.

 

I don’t see how you would have any problem with it. All five studs would have to rotate in concert. I have seen studs break and axle shafts break, but I have never seen the holes elongated from torque, but maybe I just haven’t seen it.
I would think you would need some serious torque and excellent traction to even discuss that kind of failure.
On a side note, the hole nearest the access hole in the flange looks kind of oblong, is it just an optical illusion?

 

It's the picture that makes it look oblong. It looked thar way to me also but I just looked at it again in good light. They're nice and round.

 

if it doesn't crack when you put the studs in send it

 

Plenty of metal there

 

Look at it this way, you had 4 lugs before and it was plenty strong, if you discount the one lug, you still have 4 solid ones plus one iffy one, so you have 4+. You are just fine.

 

I'd use it in a non high performance application.

 

I am surprised this was cheaper than new 5 lug axles especially if there was shipping involved.

They had to weld the old holes closed, machine flush (ok looks like they just flap disc'd flush?), then redrill.

 

It was 138.00 total including shipping. I agree with others that getting an 8" rear end would have been more ideal but I'd have to track one down, have it shipped which would be pretty expensive so I figured a hundred bucks or so and they were back in a week wasn't too bad at all

 

Run it

 

Balance.
It will be off balance forcing you to balance the entire assy. as a single unit.
Wish I could find/afford the equipment to do that, used to watch an old style alignment shop do it that way.

 

The access hole would make the it off balance regardless of location. The imbalance is so close to the centerline of the axle/wheel assembly that it is negligible.

 

Was the old four hole pattern spaced evenly on either side of that access hole, and the same on both axles? Perhaps they drilled the troublesome hole where it is to avoid drilling into one of the now welded up holes. If the old pattern wasn't even, that might have been the only spot the new hole would fit if they wanted to avoid a plug weld. But since this wasn't a performance upgrade, just an outside appearance thing, even if it cracks when you put the stud in it should be okay. As stated above, you've still got four good studs, same as you had before. You must really like those new wheels...

 

The old holes were evenly spaced and not too close to the access hole. I just called then and asked why one was drilled one way and the other spaced differently. Sounds like they just lined it up that way and drilled. Didn't give a reason why but said they require an 1/8' spacing between holes and it would be fine as is.

 

I must say you are getting 5 lug the hard way
Make sure the wheel hub fits the axle flange perfectly
So the weight of the car is supported by the flange not the lugnuts

 

The wimpy axle will break first , run it.

 

I would run t and look around for a 2nd and 3rd 71/4 rear end as spares. The are no parts for them and if you break it you need a spare or look for a 8".

 

It's not an ideal job because of where the drilled hole is now. So that's stupid. Attention to detail is not that machinist's forte.
That said, that hole location is a non problem on a street vehicle.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995

 

I agree. I don't do that type of work for a living but to me it's pretty obvious to not drill that close to the hole. I feel good with running it now after reading everyone's thoughts on it. Thank you all for the info.

 

Both bolt patterns are 4-1/2 ( 4 and 5 lug). So you pick one , fill three and drill four. If you pick the wrong one to "keep", you come up with a situation like this. Again not a big deal.

 

I'm glad they got the bolt pattern right at least.

 

I would be more concerned with welding hardening the metal making it weak. Greater odds of it cracking from impact accident, pothole etc vs stock axle will bend but still be safe. But you should be fine im betting you wouldn't neglect an inspection if a mishap occurred

 

I’d just buy new stronger axles and call it a day.

 

If you want a spare 7 1/4 you can have mine for free when I swap in my 9" in a couple of months

 

Do you still have the rear end?

 

Not the best job, but it will work just fine. Just install and dont worry about it. You want see it, and it really does not matter, What does matter is how true is the BC[ bolt circle] of the holes to the center of shaft. And with out Machinist tools, you can not check. Install and see how it turns.

 

good of time as ever to ask the OP how i held up
@jrock

 

It's holding up. Car isn't all together yet but rolls like a dream in the garage. Lol.