[pcarlson]

Help!

I just dropped the '68 off at a shop last night to get some work done to it, and they've come back with an estimate. There were a few things found as problems that I didn't know were an issue, and because of that I'm not so sure if the costs are off.

Can someone give me an idea if this is fair? I seem to think so, but not too sure.

New front suspension - new lower arms w/ ball joints, new upper ball joints, bead blasted and painted original upper arm. New front hardware. Can't remember exactly what else he was doing to the suspension.

• Rebuilt power steering ram
• Rebuilt P.S. control valve
• Rebuilt steering box
• Replace shackles that were cut and welded to lower the rear end
• Replace passenger side motor mount
• Adjust timing and carbutetor
• Accelerator cable adjust - free
• Weld up cracks on both shock towers - free

Labor - front end removal and replace - 7 hrs - $525
Labor - replace shackles - $75
Labor - Power steering replacement - 4 hrs - $300.

The total for parts is $1206 and the labor to install them totals out to $975.

I'm about to give him a call to tell him to start the work on it... does anyone think I shouldn't?

 

['70 StangMan]

Did you decide to keep it?

 

[pcarlson]

Yeah, just started a full-time job today so my money issues are put on hold - for now. Spending money I don't yet have... not smart, but I need my mustang to be roadworthy!

Does this seem like a decent cost for the work? I really trust this mechanic after speaking with him. He's been working on solely mustangs for 15+ years and immediately found the issue for a problem that I would mention to him. He also has a "resto shop" where he builds high-end stuff like Shelbys and Mach1s, etc.

 

[DaveSanborn]

Where is he sourcing the parts?

You may be able to chop that parts bill by buying the parts yourself. Grab an NPD catalog and price everything out for an accurate comparison.

The labor bill is cheap and I'd jump all over that deal without hesitation, but double check the parts prices for a possible savings.

Your engine is currently installed... right? I'm assuming that this work will include removal of the engine to gain access to the shock tower repairs?

Dave

 

[buening]

Others will chime in but the labor doesn't seem to be that far out of what for what he is doing. There are people on here reporting estimates of nearly $1000 just for someone to install a headliner.

 

[pcarlson]

Where is he sourcing the parts?

You may be able to chop that parts bill by buying the parts yourself. Grab an NPD catalog and price everything out for an accurate comparison.

The labor bill is cheap and I'd jump all over that deal without hesitation, but double check the parts prices for a possible savings.

Your engine is currently installed... right? I'm assuming that this work will include removal of the engine to gain access to the shock tower repairs?

The parts will be sourced from vendors he knows. Some will be from NPD, others from who knows where. He made the point that I could save a few bucks here and there by going 100% NPD, but he aboslutely HATES chinese suspension parts. He's had a lot of problems with them and they are no where near as sturdy as they should be. He gave me a detailed list of the prices for parts, and the prices he quoted me are not marked up from NPD where he is going with them.

The engine is currently installed, and I think that he is going to be welding up the shock towers from under the fender so he may not need to remove the engine.

I do agree that it looks like a good deal and I am going to jump on it...

Now, he did point out that the leaf springs should be replaced as well. I was thinking of leaving those off and getting to them later because of $$$ reasons.

To replace the leaf-springs will run me $510 including parts and install. Is this a good price? What difference will I notice if I install new leaf springs?

The big thing is that I really trust this guy already, somehow. He is either a very slick salesman, or he REALLY knows his stuff. I am going with his recommendation on the parts and I'm not going to cut corners to save $10 here and there because he knows which parts work well and is stands behind everything he installs on my car.

 

[mishalah]

The labor charges are very good, but $1200+ for those parts seems very high. Just check the parts list against any catalog and compare. Remember, tough...many shops make some of their money on parts markup. To be fair, it does take them valuable time to research, order, unpack, sort, drive to get, etc. parts. Everything that costs them money should cost you money PLUS a percentage. Otherwise, they wouldn't be in business.

I see NPD offering leaf springs for $200 plus shipping. If you can get the car up and don't mind getting your hands dirty it's not a hard job to do in your garage. Of course, you'll also want to replace all the bushings, too. Does his price include those extra parts? If so, add another $100+ for bushings and shipping. That leaves about $200 for his labor. If you're short on money the difference in labor cost would pay for your springs. See how it works?

 

['70 StangMan]

Yes to replacing leaf springs, but it would be cheaper to get a sawzall, jackstands, floor jack and a six-pack and cut them bad boys out yourself.If you have the time (and it could be done a little later)if need be.

 

[DaveSanborn]

Can someone give me an idea if this is fair? I seem to think so, but not too sure.

...and then hours later....

I am going with his recommendation on the parts and I'm not going to cut corners to save $10 here and there because he knows which parts work well and is stands behind everything he installs on my car.

Then the purpose of your post was what?

Dave

 

[reenmachine]

Then the purpose of your post was what?

Dave

...to see if the quoted prices were fair, not if he could save a dollar or two here and there. He learned that the prices were indeed fair, and made his decision.

And the purpose of your post was what? :stirpot:

 

[DaveSanborn]

And the purpose of your post was what?

It just seems to me that opinions were asked for, but his mind's made up regardless of any of our answers.

I've posted on his related topic before that welding up cracked shock towers ONLY from inside the wheelwell is not the BEST way to go about the repair. Is it the easiest way to do it? Sure. Will the job be done as well as if the engine were removed? No.

He's going to do, what he's going to do regardless of any input here.

There's a saying about leading a horse to water...

Dave

 

[pcarlson]

And the purpose of your post was what?

It just seems to me that opinions were asked for, but his mind's made up regardless of any of our answers.

I've posted on his related topic before that welding up cracked shock towers ONLY from inside the wheelwell is not the BEST way to go about the repair. Is it the easiest way to do it? Sure. Will the job be done as well as if the engine were removed? No.

He's going to do, what he's going to do regardless of any input here.

There's a saying about leading a horse to water...

Dave

No, actually, you are very wrong. Read my post. What did I ask for? I asked if the prices were fair.

What did you say? You said something along the lines of [highlight]"I would jump all over those prices!"[/highlight] or something similar. The same sentiment was echoed by others.

Now just how in the hell does that equate to me not listening to people? I sure had my mind made up already, right... that's your point? Yeah, sure, that's why I didn't call the mechanic back until I read posts saying that the prices weren't outrageous.

But yeah, you're right. I just started this post for no reason, I obviously don't care what people on this forum think :loco:

I've posted on his related topic before that welding up cracked shock towers ONLY from inside the wheelwell is not the BEST way to go about the repair. Is it the easiest way to do it? Sure. Will the job be done as well as if the engine were removed? No.

And is it not also possible to fix that problem from under the fender? You have said so yourself!

So I want to save $300 and not have the engine pulled. The job will still be done right. Do you want to pay to have it pulled and fixed perfectly? I'll take an engine detail while we're at it.

By the way, the parts prices being as high as $1200 is heavily influenced by the prices of a rebuilt power steering ram, rebuilt p.s. control valve, and a rebuilt steering box. All rebuilt professionally.

 

[pcarlson]

Then the purpose of your post was what?

Dave

...to see if the quoted prices were fair, not if he could save a dollar or two here and there. He learned that the prices were indeed fair, and made his decision.

And the purpose of your post was what?

Thanks for being the voice of reason.

Good lord, I ask a specific question, get the question answered by a few people and make my decision based on that... then I get called out for not listening to people and already having my mind made up? Why would I bother posting if that was the case?

 

[flicktra]

Just My 02. cents... I looked at my NPD parts catalog and came up with about $600 for the parts. HOWEVER, that's not to say I recommend not letting this guy do the work as quoted.

He's obviously cutting you a deal on the labor and making up somewhat on the parts, even so overall its a good deal. as far as the springs, you should be able to tell if the car is sagging in the rear, if it isn't don't waste the money.

Bear in mind that's quite a bit of work being done for under 2 grand. Heck, I spent $765 just for having a new steering gearbox and a new ring and pinion put in, and I bought the gearbox myself!!

 

[pcarlson]

Just My 02. cents... I looked at my NPD parts catalog and came up with about $600 for the parts. HOWEVER, that's not to say I recommend not letting this guy do the work as quoted.

I hear you guys, but I don't understand where you're getting these low numbers from.

At a glance, here are some of the part costs... the rebuild costs are kind of high, but they are still a better option than buying a repro for more money. I'd rather have a working original for less.

Rebuild steering box - $265
Rebuild P/S Ram cylinder - $185
Rebuild P/S Control Valve - $208
Upper ball joints, $43.41x2 - $86.82
Lower control arm + ball joint, $102.49x2 - $205

That already equals $950, and then you have to add in all of the other small parts and hardware that goes with it. The ball joints and control arms are Moog products, not NPD (cheapo). Plus, he counted things like "accelerator cable adjustment", "adjust timing", and "adjust carb", as PARTS, not labor.

 

[J.R. Bert]

Hi there: Hey I have a couple of questions... Is he replacing the UCA bushings?... How about the alignment?... How are your front springs?...

J.R.

 

[oldgreydog]

Hey guys you know what, wherever you look someone will be higher or lower on certain parts or labor costs. I do this kind of stuff for a living and you never want to go with the cheapest guy all the time as if he is always the cheapest he is probably cutting corners. Let the fellow make a reasonable profit so if there is a problem later on he will be there to take care of it for you. If you like the guy and feel comfortable with him give him the job and let him make some money so he can feed his wife and kids. We all make money when we go to work or we wouldn't go so I would think it is reasonable to let him make money as well. Also as stated Moog stuff costs a lot more then the off shore stuff does and believe me there is a reason for that. If your not sure about this fellow and his shop give him a small job or two first and see how they turn out, you can always take the car back next week for the rest of the work.
Al

 

[pcarlson]

Yes, he is replacing almost all rubber on the front end including bushings. He is also doing an alignment on it, that's for sure.

So... to update the story, I dropped it off on Monday. I called today to check the progress and he has already torn down and rebuilt the entire front end. He is just waiting on some of the P/S parts to put the steering back together, and then it'll be good to go. He even undercoated the front end for me, for the hell of it I guess.

As for the rear end, he talked me out of just changing out the shackles right now. His opinion on their strength changed after looking at them, and it would make more sense to switch them out while also doing the leaf springs.

I'm going to stop by the shop tomorrow after work with a digital camera to take some pics when it is up on the lift. Then I'll be driving it home!