I don't think there is a big problem with people faking 65's as 64's.

I would think the only way to tell for sure would be the build numbers.

My first mustang was a 65 coupe with a december 64 build date but it had the 64 carpet and a non moving pass seat. it also had the blower switch that is off in the middle position, I think that is a pre 65 thing also...

 

White "A" on the drivers fresh air inlet knob, beveled hood and headlight buckets, non adjustable pass seat, horns, horn contacts and ring in steering wheel, white (only) headliner, road draft tube....these are a few more things to look for on the 64.5. Hope it helps

 

From the VMF homepage under FAQ's:

http://www.vintage-mustang.com/topics/faq/64-65diff.html

Good luck

 

The fastest way to tell from the VIN is to look at the 5th character.

For 64 1/2 the valid values would be:
D - 289 4V V8
F - 260 2V V8
U - 170 1V I6
K - 289 4V V8 HiPo

For 65 the valid values are:
A - 289 4V V8
C - 289 2V V8
T - 200 1V I6
K - 289 4V V8 HiPo

The only real problem is the K coders. You can use the consecutive unit number (last 6 digits in VIN) for those. Generally, if it's under 125,000 then it's considered a 64 1/2.

Although someone could fake a 64 1/2 iit's probably not worth the effort to do such a thing (64 1/2s don't draw much more $) and since the VIN is a dead giveaway anyway I don't see why anyone would try . If you're looking for a project that has merit in the real world you may want to make a video on spotting a fake GT.

 

or better yet... spotting a fake shelby...

 

What about spotting fake or rebodied K codes. Well probably no one would ever do that..........


Tim

 

It'd be a short video, because basically once you look at the VIN, everything else with the exception of the generator and possibly carpet, could have been on a '65.

My son's early '65 C code has the bezeled wipers, 2 speed heater with off in the center position, the battery vents in the radiator, the bezeled head light doors, pretty much everything a 64.5 would have except for the C in the VIN instead of a D.

 

What about those fake GTs running around?

 

You can tell a 64.5 from a 65 strictly by the VIN, with no exceptions..............

Dearborn 2nd letter of VIN = F
100001 thru approx 230000 = 64.5
250000 & up = 65

San Jose 2nd letter of VIN = R
100001 thru approx 105000 = 64.5
125000 & up = 65

Metuchen 2nd letter of VIN = T
65-only, no 64.5's. They started Feb 1, 1965 with 130001.

 

It would be better to do the Fake GT vs. 64.5. I agree the VIN beats all, unless someone has cut and spliced in a VIN. Most likely not to fake a 64.5, but to pass off a car without a title or a stolen car.

 

I have one of those weird 64 9/10. It was built the next to last day for 64 1/2 production. If you're familiar w/ Ford, they didn't just stop doing certain things on specific days. Mine has the alt but the original owner's manual says, GEN, it's a "C" code, has all the other 64 sheetmetal and unique parts, and the serial # is 258XXX. I have a book somewhere that gives a daily breakdown of production for all of 64,65,66. There are Apr 1, 64 cars w/ 65 hoods (all pace cars had 65 hoods). Remember, noone was counting- just get them out the door with whatever parts were necessary. Since Fairlanes and falcons were on the same assembly line, a lot of parts were interchangable and were.