The only 6 available in the 65-73 mustang was a straight 6. If its a V6 it is a way newer engine. As for how much , it depends if someone is looking for an all original mustang of that type.

 

The for the correction on the engine. I'm not too knowledgeable on classic cars. Also the guy who is selling it says he bought it off an old lady who had kept it stored after her husband passed away and he says that's the original engine and it only has about 45,000 miles on it.

 

Post your pics, inside, outside, and underside.:worthless:

 

For sure. I'll be posting them tomorrow

 

Great. Without pics all you're going to get here is a range so wide as to be fairly worthless to you. With good comprehensive pics there are people here who can narrow that range down quite a bit. Heck, whether it has A/C or not can be a few grand alone (for instance). Besides condition, there are other things to take into consideration options-wise.

 

Yep- Options, even minor ones, can effect price. The rest is condition. A 65 T code could be worth anything from $200 to $10,000+

 

To Answer the OP's inquiry based on the information provided your range is somewhere between $1000 and $20000.

Hope that helps.

Phil

 

Heres the pics

 

The interior

 

Do you have any photos of the engine?

 

The truth is that it's worth exactly what someone is willing to pay for it.

A '65 T code coupe isn't worth much to me, even clean and original. I'd pay maybe $6500, others may pay double that, some wacko maybe even 3x's

with things like history, options, etc the value changes

 

Honey Gold was only offered in 65, so that's something if you like the color.

 

Create an account on Hagerty.com and do your own research.

#1 - $21,432 (-20% adjustment for 6-cyl, -10% adjustment for A/T, +6% for AC: $28,200)
#2 - $18,392 (-20%/-10%/+6% adjustments of $24,200)
#3 - $12,388 (-20%/-10%/+6% adjustment of $16,300)
#4 - $7,068 (-20$/-10%/+6% adjustment of $9,300)

Condition looks like you're in between a #2 and #3 vehicle.

*Personally I'd deduct from the value for the undesirable exterior color.

 

Oh no...that car is a solid #4

#4 vehicles are daily drivers, with flaws visible to the naked eye. The chrome might have pitting or scratches, the windshield might be chipped. Paintwork is imperfect, and perhaps the body has a minor dent. Split seams or a cracked dash, where applicable, might be present. No major parts are missing, but the wheels could differ from the originals, or other non- stock additions might be present. A #4 vehicle can also be a deteriorated restoration. "Fair" is the one word that describes a #4 vehicle.

The subject car has a fair amount of wear from use. It is not high miles but it is not really low either. I do not know whether the original paint is worth value or not. It reaches a point where the paint wear becomes a liability. Being a T code pretty much relegates the car to the bottom end. Hagerty shows a value of ~$7,000. I think it would likely sell around $6,000

 

Looks like a previous owner (PO) might have hacked up the dash to install that aftermarket radio.

From the flora in those pics, are you in Florida or California? Did you crawl around underneath to look for rust? How about the trunk area? How about the cowl? What does it look like and sound like under the hood? Smog controls on that engine?

 

It doesnt have much rust its been kept in storage. only two quarter sized rust spots in the trunk. and im in Cali.

 

Joe T is pretty close in his guesstimate. Two 6 cyl. engines available early on; ' U code ' 170 ci, and ' T code ' 200 ci. I had, and drove, a 66 200 ci. automatic for 30 years. A very dependable, easy to maintain, easy to work on, very attractive easy to drive and handled great, no PS, and a true classic automobile. Alas it would never be the 8 cyl. muscle car I always wanted. Brian

 

Joe T is pretty close in his guesstimate.

I'd hope Joe T would be pretty close in determining what dollar amount he would be willing to pay himself... irate:

:cheers:

 

Right now I'm thinking 9-13K. The A/C is at least $3K itself. Definitely worth looking at further. In addition to the things semperfido mentioned, I'd want to take a closer look at that "original" paint. This car might be a nice find.

 

The order I look at in considering a car is 1) Frame/undercarriage, 2) body, 3)engine. In this case 1 & 2 (from description) seem pretty solid. Personally I would love to find a car like that in the $6 - $7K range and see what I could do in experimenting with what I could get out of that 6 cylinder engine. But that's just me.

 

If the paint is original and can be buffed back to a really high level, this car could have real value to somebody who wants a survivor. That would put the value nudging up to condition 3.

If the paint is original but really needs a repaint, I think Paul has nailed the value.

 

From Hagerty (https://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/articles/2004/10/17/car-conditions-what-the-numbers-mean)

NO. 1: EXCELLENT
Restored to current maximum professional standards of quality in every area or perfect original with components operating or appearing as new; a 95-plus point show car that isn’t driven.

NO. 2: FINE
Well-restored or a combination of superior restoration and excellent original; also, an extremely well-maintained original showing very minimal wear.

NO. 3: VERY GOOD
Completely operable original or “older restoration” showing wear; also, a good amateur restoration, all presentable and serviceable inside and out. Plus combinations of well-done restoration and good operable components or a partially restored car with all parts necessary to complete and/or valuable NOS parts.

NO. 4: GOOD
A drivable vehicle needing no or only minor work to be functional; also, a deteriorated restoration or a very poor amateur restoration. All components may need restoration to be “excellent,” but the car is mostly useable “as is.”

NO. 5: RESTORABLE
Needs complete restoration of body, chassis and interior; may or may not be running, but isn’t weathered, wrecked or stripped to the point of being useful only for parts.

NO. 6: PARTS CAR
May or may not be running, but is weathered, wrecked and/or stripped to the point of being useful primarily for parts.

 

I'd have to disagree and say this is a solid #3 car judging by the pictures and description given.

 

I agree. What I don't see eye-to-eye with Hagerty on is the adds, specifically and most notably (by impact) the A/C value at 6% of base valuation. A/C is A/C, whether it be on a six or a 390GT. At least one vintage mustang valuation expert would say it's a $4,000 plus across the board. It's a straight add in just about any of the "books" you would care to look at too. I usually think in my head 3K for air on the grounds that if it needs something, most of it is covered by my 25% deduct from the max. In this regard I find Hagerty's formula flawed.

 

The worst rust it could have is not noticeable to a novice. Have the car checked out. I would give it a value in the $6-7K range

 

you can see paint on the pass side door light switch , looks to be repainted at some point in time .

 

Carpet and paint not orig, window gasket on rear split- would let water in trunk and rear seat floor, headliner bad, dash pad warped , dash cut for aftermarket radio, inside door handles incorrectly installed, Driver at best!

 

Believe the steering wheel should be same color as the column as well.

 

To me, the thing that kills the value is the 6 cylinder and the possibility that someone cut the dash to install the after market radio. A big plus for your car however is that it looks like it is all there. It looks like its a descent driver quality car. I'm sure there are some that like 6 cylinder cars, but I also think it is a small percentage. From my experience, if the car was a good quality restoration it may bring $10 to $15k for a 6 cylinder, if you can find someone looking for a 6 cylinder. If it is an average car, i would expect to sell it for $6 to $8k. If you ask more than that you'll be competing with V8s. Just my opinion.