O.Reilly and Autozone have a thread tap and die repair kit in their loaner tool program. Use the proper size die.

 

Tried it once on my shaker stud.
Used liquid weld and chased it with a die.
It didn't hold 3 seconds.

Just get a new coil

 

Using a sharp-edged jewelry file, repair the threads as best you can. You should then have enough solid thread to tighten properly.

 

Use push-on terminal…

 

The push on terminal is a good idea, however if you end up getting a new coil, this could be a spare to keep in the trunk in case of a breakdown. It could at least get you home...

 

You could clean up the threads enough to screw an extender on. Of course the push on terminal is easiest

Small Parts 370811HM303 18-8 Stainless Steel Male-Female Threaded Hex Standoff, 3/8" Hex Size, 1/2" Length, 10-32 Thread Size (Pack of 5): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Small Parts 370811HM303 18-8 Stainless Steel Male-Female Threaded Hex Standoff, 3/8" Hex Size, 1/2" Length, 10-32 Thread Size (Pack of 5): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

a.co

WIRE, DISTRIBUTOR PRIMARY, SINGLE POINT DISTRIBUTOR - #12216-9 - National Parts Depot

Buy part #12216-9 WIRE, DISTRIBUTOR PRIMARY, SINGLE POINT DISTRIBUTOR for your classic vehicle from National Parts Depot. Free shipping on orders over $300, fast delivery & everyday low pricing! Order now!

www.npdlink.com

 

Maybe take the appropriate nut, cut it in half, place both halves at the base and use a socket to carefully draw them up over the damaged threads.

 

You can try and fix it. If it's not reliable, you will have to replace it. The terminals are soft copper and easy to strip.

 

Thread REcutting die, not a thread CUTTING die. Size 10-32.

Hexagon Rethreading Dies Light Duty, Fractional Sizes

Item #: CS30

www.championcuttingtool.com

 

thank you Woodchuck, I did not know there is a difference between the normal cutting dies and recutting dies... definitley will be looking into this.

learning a lot here, thank you.

 

I'm going out on a limb here, there is not enough clearance on the coil to run the die down.
In the big picture, coils are cheap. Buy another, consider it the cost of education.

 

Coils are cheap. Not in a good way though.
Tighten up the terminal the best you can and add a bit of solder to hold it in place?

 

Dum question maybe, is there a push on thermal that you can crimp wires to?

 

As close as your nearest O'Reilly.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman-conduct-tite/dorman-conduct-tite-electrical-harness/cti0/85845?q=90+degree+wire+terminal&pos=1

 

That peg is stripped, in other words the material that used to make up the thread is torn from it's base and cannot be pushed back in place. Thread chasing dies can be used to dig material out of thread root but cannot put material back up onto the crest where it is needed. You can however re-thread it to a smaller size (metric if needed) but you'd be left with a smaller and weaker peg. Care would also need to taken so as to not rip the peg loose from it's base. If it was the last coil of it's kind and made of pure onobtanium I could fix it for you but you would not like the cost. Just buy a push on connector for it, then put the set away as a spare. Now don't screw up the new coil you are about to purchase.

 

hi guys,

thank you very much for all the valuable input.

Use push-on terminal…

Ears, the push on terminal is a very good idea. The problem is; I have two leads connected to the plus terminal. I am afraid, with a push-on terminal the second cable (connected with an eye crimp terminal) would not be securely pushed down.

You could clean up the threads enough to screw an extender on. Of course the push on terminal is easiest

Small Parts 370811HM303 18-8 Stainless Steel Male-Female Threaded Hex Standoff, 3/8" Hex Size, 1/2" Length, 10-32 Thread Size (Pack of 5): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Small Parts 370811HM303 18-8 Stainless Steel Male-Female Threaded Hex Standoff, 3/8" Hex Size, 1/2" Length, 10-32 Thread Size (Pack of 5): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

a.co

WIRE, DISTRIBUTOR PRIMARY, SINGLE POINT DISTRIBUTOR - #12216-9 - National Parts Depot

Buy part #12216-9 WIRE, DISTRIBUTOR PRIMARY, SINGLE POINT DISTRIBUTOR for your classic vehicle from National Parts Depot. Free shipping on orders over $300, fast delivery & everyday low pricing! Order now!

www.npdlink.com

Thanks, JW67Conv. I have not seen an extender like that before. Good input I could use on another project.

You can try and fix it. If it's not reliable, you will have to replace it. The terminals are soft copper and easy to strip.

cougar70, you are correct, that is exactly my concern as well.

That peg is stripped, in other words the material that used to make up the thread is torn from it's base and cannot be pushed back in place. Thread chasing dies can be used to dig material out of thread root but cannot put material back up onto the crest where it is needed. You can however re-thread it to a smaller size (metric if needed) but you'd be left with a smaller and weaker peg. Care would also need to taken so as to not rip the peg loose from it's base. If it was the last coil of it's kind and made of pure onobtanium I could fix it for you but you would not like the cost. Just buy a push on connector for it, then put the set away as a spare. Now don't screw up the new coil you are about to purchase.

I am with Pittbull on this, cutting a smaller thread will weaken the already small peg.

I'm going out on a limb here, there is not enough clearance on the coil to run the die down.
In the big picture, coils are cheap. Buy another, consider it the cost of education.

Asm109 is correct, the cutting die I have, is to big.

I found Time-Sert bushings, I will try it this way and let you know how it turns out.

This turned out more into a science project, just to see if it works.

I have a second coil, which I am running on the car now. So this one would be the spare for the trunk.

If it does not work out, I will just get a second coil as a spare. They do not cost an arm and a leg, even here in Europe and it is not worth while getting stranded on the side of the road 😉

Again, you guys rock 🤘. Thank you very much for the help.

 

hello together,

if anybody is interested in the outcome of this; the Time-Sert bushing is "no bueno".

the wall thickness is very thin, as soon as you try to tighten a nut over the damaged thread area of the coil, the Time-Sert bushing starts coming apart.

they will work perfectly well for the application they are designed to (repair damaged threads in holes, e.g. spark plug threads in heads, etc.) but just not in this application.

anyways, not much lost here. I will just get another coil as a emergency backup in my trunk.

thanks again for your input and help.