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loud ticking noise coming from rear end

7.7K views 30 replies 14 participants last post by  ju5tin95  
#1 ·
hi i have a 1966 289 c4 , and just today i hear a loud ticking noise from the rear end, any thoughts?
 
#5 ·
baseball card in the spokes?
 
#6 ·
U joints.
 
#9 ·
called a shop and they said to check the U joint and see if it moves left or right, seems to be very tight. So they say it might be the 3rd member. Called around and places charging me around 800 for a rebuild. Should I just go buy a whole used rear end? Some mustang yard is charging me 450 w/ 100 day guarantee. Money is tight. Whats the best way to go?
 
#11 ·
The "best way to go" is to determine, the best you can, where the noise is coming from. Does the noise come on when going slowly? If so, maybe someone can jog alongside while you coast to determine if its on either side or the middle. Try to eliminate as many variables as possible before paying someone to do the same thing.
 
#12 ·
yea i drove around and opened my car door and i was going about 5 mph and the clicking noise seems to be coming from right where the drive shaft meets the rear end. So im going to check the gear oil level first hopefully thats it if not ill have to either pull the 3rd member out but i dont want to mess it up even more because of my inexperience, should I just bring it in to the shop? I mean I am somewhat mechanically inclined I usually do all the work myself unless I need like serious shop tools.
 
#14 ·
when I disconnect the rear U joint what exactly am i looking for? because that ticking noise sounds very sharp and clear , would it sound that clear if it were coming from the 3rd member?

oh and i checked the level on the gear oil, its right at the fill hole. Would I still need to change it out? or is it fine?
 
#15 ·
one thing i would also do is update your profile to include your location - you might have a fellow VMF'er local thats willing to give a hand
 
#22 ·
Yep, no major tools for the rear u joint from rear axle. Depending on condition of your u joints, if they need to be replaced you may be able to press them out with a decent sized c-clamp and a short piece of pipe (or a large socket). The biggest pain of u joints is putting them back in without knocking a needle bearing out of place (unles they are rusted in place).
 
#26 ·
WD40 is a poor lubricant. It's great at breaking thing frees and stopping squeaks, but it stinks as a lubricant and now that you have it in the bearing, get it changed before you drive very far. The good news is that you apparently found your problem.
Dave