Chassis Saver. Paint Over Rust to Stop Rust Permanently With Chassis Saver Truck & Auto Underbody Coating

All of our local auto places recommend it. I talked to a couple town construction guys that come into my work place that use it and one guy has been using it since the mid '90's when it came out and it has never failed on his equipment yet short of construction abuse and poor prep.

Also some of the townships use it on their winter equipment and it literally takes years for it to fail with the abuse it takes with the corrosion elements when compared to months or one season with out it. I can't go wrong with that kind of testimonial. Our local stories here sold me on it.
Lynn

 

Por-15 user here. It is all in the prep work. follow the directions. Never used the chassis saver looks promising.

 

I used POR-15 on a few areas of my project. It hasn't been on there long enough for to attest to its longevity. What's nice is you can brush it on.

Be sure to get the POR-15 lid and sealing area spotlessly clean before you re-seal the can. Otherwise, the lid will be fused to the can. Ask me how I know.

I thought I had the lid and can clean enough before I re-sealed the it. But I guess there was just enough residue to glue the lid to the can.

FYI, you have to topcoat POR-15. UV light breaks it down.

 

Be sure to get the POR-15 lid and sealing area spotlessly clean before you re-seal the can. Otherwise, the lid will be fused to the can. Ask me how I know.

That is why you you put a double piece of saran wrap on it between the lid and can and then tap it down. I've never cleaned a lid and I change wrap every time the can gets opened.

Works like a charm.

I'm not sure on POR-15 but you can put Chassis Saver in the fridge and it prolongs it's working life a long time. The guy that has been using it since the 90's put's it Kraft Mayonnaise jars with a 1/2" coating of thinner on top and puts it in the fridge when he buys it in gallons at a time and can't use all of it.

I asked him how the wife likes that one and he said he isn't married, no wonder why he can keep it in the fridge like that..:shocked::}0 Mine would say heck no...
Lynn

 

SPI black epoxy

 

I used Eastwood Rust encapasalator. It has been 8 years and still looks the same as the day I applied it.

 

so right. The eastwood product is vastly superior to POR15

Z.

 

Picklex20/Epoxy Primer user. Remove as much rust as possible. Treat and neutralize what remains. Seal it to the elements to prevent further oxidation.

 

Anything that says to paint over the rust should be questioned. Last time I checked, rust is not well adhered to the metal. If you poke around you will find stories of POR15 and other of the same type coming off. The stuff looks great till it fails. In the end if you are coating rust you are promoting more rust as the existing rust has oxygen to continue rusting more after you coat (hide) the rust.

Your best bet is to fully remove all rust paying attention to the brown spot at the bottom of the pits. Do not trust any acid products to get that rust no matter what the label says. I have done some experiments and found that the bottom of the pits will sprout rust after following the directions of the rust product.

Once you have the metal free of rust seal it with epoxy. Then move on to your next coating. Carefully following directions of the products. Keep in mind that it is ok to put bondo over the metal, but I believe us hobbyists are better off sealing the metal first since we may take a while before we can get other coatings over the bondo.

 

I agree, hit it with any brand of epoxy.

 

I always use etching primer on bare metal then whatever on top, bondo etc..

 

Thx for all the info.

 

Never use either product on new metal, it does not stick well. It kinda needs a textured rough surface (see "rusty") to have adhesion. I have peeled it off of a semi smooth application.

If I were painting a plow or a rusty piece of mail box post I would use either one, but on my car I would not use it (or buy a car coated with it).

SPI Epoxy is my vote.