I would get the Felrpo Viton seal and follow the instructions exactly as printed on the package.

 

The Felpro Viton is also my choice for the race car. Done by the book and never a leak.

 

I always did the install the seal and torque the main cap and it always seems to seep. I used the Motorcraft seal. I’d be curious as well to hear any success stories.

 

Thanks guys. Now are you talking 1 piece or 2 piece seal? I assume I need the 1 piece. I also assume you guys are using a 2 piece?

I can't seem to find anything on the Felpro site (in fact, it says No Parts, so I assume website error at the moment). Rockauto shows the PTFE/Teflon one, but no Viton.

Although Summit shows FEL-2922RS which they do label as Fluoroelastomer.
But yes, has anyone used the 1 piece?

Thanks!

 

Thanks guys. Now are you talking 1 piece or 2 piece seal? I assume I need the 1 piece. I also assume you guys are using a 2 piece?

I can't seem to find anything on the Felpro site (in fact, it says No Parts, so I assume website error at the moment). Rockauto shows the PTFE/Teflon one, but no Viton.

Although Summit shows FEL-2922RS which they do label as Fluoroelastomer.
But yes, has anyone used the 1 piece?

Thanks!

I was referring to the 1 piece 80's 90's 5.0 rear main seal. I unfortunately have had the engine apart several times. What I read and followed was installing the seal then installing the rear main cap. Something was always seeping at the oil pan rear main area. When I replaced the Boss 302 pan I had with a racing pan with the engine still in the car, the seep became a leak. So, has it always been the pan or the seal? I have learned that exactly following the instructions on head gasket torque specifications included with the gaskets leads to no milk shakes in the oil as opposed to following the 60 year old shop manual.

I'd say follow the directions regardless of what seal you choose!

 

Some people swear by the seal install tool to achieve a completely flush install. Alignment seems to be key in achieving a no leak outcome.

 

Some people swear by the seal install tool to achieve a completely flush install. \

Aye, but I have access to the main caps right now, so just not sure which way to go.

 

No RTV, it can actually cause the seal to come out. I went against my own advice on a 6BT Cummins with a 2400 series Allison trans. as the aluminum housing was slightly damaged. Next day it spit the seal out and I was redoing it. Very unpleasant.

 

I used a Ford seal and the OTC install tool on both late model 302 and 4.0 V6 which have similar one piece seals. Heard too much about leaks and correct install depth to chance it. Install tool is used after main cap is torqued, seal installed dry (no RTV or other sealant, wipe oil on the sealing surface if using a normal "rubber" seal like Ford part).

 

Thanks guys. I'll grab the 2922RS today and see if the instructions are different than their generic online instructions.

 

I like to use the Viton SCE piece...#23604.

 

Thanks guys, I ordered the 2922RS (before your post, Bart). Patrick, do you happen to remember the exact instructions on the package (Since mine won't be here for a few days).

I just want to know if I can install the main caps, or if the instructions talk about installing the main caps first, then banging it home.

Thanks again!

 

 

Thanks! You (I, I guess) would have thought that it would be better to slide it on the crank and then button up the main caps? I guess not.

 

I'm pretty sure those instructions are most likely written for an engine that is already together and you are just replacing the seal. I have read posts from "Woody" the guy that builds all the stroker motors that everyone always talks about...can't think of his company rn. Anyway, he says he installs the seals on new builds onto the crankshaft prior to installing the cap. I wouldn't be afraid to follow his guidance based on the number SBF engines he builds.

 

www.fordstrokers.com

Also, he hosts another site/page that requires a subscription that has dozens of videos he has made covering a lot of build details specific to SBF, OEM blocks, aftermarket blocks and heads, etc. A one month membership is under $20, but well worth the amount of information that is available, including rear main seal installation tips. There is also a forum on the site where you can ask questions and he’ll respond, but he’s fairly active on Corral.

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Any RTV on the main cap where it meets the seal, or meets itself, etc? Or zero RTV on this job?

 

I'd still put a small amount where the cap, block and seal all meet.

 

I know the two-piece seals specifically say to add a smear of RTV at the corners where the cap meet the block. Aviation Form-A-Gasket would also work.

 

RTV on the block toward corner where the cap edges sit, very thin small amount not a bead. Sort of a F shape with the prongs of the F around the groove for the seal.