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Rebuilding 8" - Carrier Recommendations?

3.3K views 16 replies 12 participants last post by  Landmark*  
#1 ·
Hi all,

I'm planning on having my stock 8" rebuilt soon. Eventually, it will be living behind a mild 331 instead of the tired 289 I have now.

It doesn't have to handle 500 horsepower but it does have to be limited slip and durable. Planning on 3.55 gears and any other durability-related upgrades the builder suggests.

There are a few options for a 28 spline limited slip/trac-lok/truetrac. Is there a preference around here?

Currie?
Currie Enterprises. CE-5023 - 8" T.S.D. Limited Slip - 28 Spline

Eaton?
Eaton Detroit Truetrac Differentials 912A616 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

Yukon?
https://www.yukongear.com/productdetails.aspx?ProdID=1266

Thanks for your thoughts!
 
#2 ·
any of the ones you selected will do just fine. and they are all about the same price, so that is not a factor. in the end i would probably go with the eaton trutrac diff, but that is a personal preference more than anything else.
 
#5 ·
I was down the same path as you. Did the true-trac with 3:40 gears! Planning a 331 in front of it. If you plan to hit the strip with slicks/super sticky radials you might want to go 9" with that 331.
 
#8 ·
The additional weight and parasitic loss of a 9" seems like total overkill for what I intend (~300hp motor on 225 street tires). 95% sure my car will be relegated to street use only.

I am curious re. the usual pain points for the 8" though...anything I can do in order to ensure a long trouble free lifespan, I am willing to do.
 
#6 ·
The TrueTrac is way different than any clutch-type or locker. It's a superior design that solves the old "differential problem" that open/clutch/ratchet/lockers suffer from. It's not a matter of worm gear vs. spider gear. Spider gears just transfer power. The gear mechanism in the TrueTrac is what actually operates the torque splitting abilities of the differential.
 
#10 ·
I just put a TruTrack with 3.55 gears in a 8" behind my 347 and I love it. HUGE difference putting the power down, especially around corners. With the open diff any throttle mid corner would spin up the inside tire and just make noise. Now it bites, rotates, and accelerates. You can very accurately steer with the throttle. It feels great.
 
#14 · (Edited)
If I didn't already have a 9" Traction-Lok™ I would convert mine to the TruTrack™. The TL works by using a friction clutch pack to limit the slippage of the wheel with the least traction, hence the generic name "limited slip". It even has a cup on one side that uses differential (spider) gear pressure to increase the pressure on the clutch pack under torque. This is identical in every way to GM's Positraction™.

The TrueTrack™ alternatively uses gearing to transfer engine power to the wheel that has the most traction. I saw something recently that seemed familiar, so I went back and took a look. Sure enough, although the differential gears are straight cut (and more of them), this differential works on the same principle, and was in widespread use more than 20 years before the first Mustang rolled off the assembly line.

Image
 
#15 ·
Google torsen differential for a bunch of info about how they work. I bought an Eaton from Randy's ring and Pinion with 3,80s. about $800 IIRC, but that was 8 years ago. I've been as happy as a lark with the way it sits in the garage after tearing the rest of the car up during my first track day after putting it in.