Many options so mine is just one for ideas.
Interior was epoxy primered. The entire firewall has Dynamat Extreme then 1/2 inch Dynaliner applied over the Extreme. Nothing on the engine side. With the semi tight fit of the Coyote in the 65, heat can be a ”con” - my firewall hasn’t been an issue. 👍

 

Search for, and read, the thread from @Kelly_H on her use of ceramic spheres mixed in paint for thermal insulation.
I used Lizardskin, both noise and thermal, and it works well. I did only one layer of the noise material and double layer of thermal on the firewall, trans tunnel and above the exhaust.

 

I remember reading those threads. I began to research that brand of ceramic spheres and I found a review on Amazon i think but the person was saying they ordered a 5 gallon container and they were just waiting and waiting and the company only said that it was on backorder. That review was recent.


I'm just going to give that a try. Thank you for reminding me about it. I just ordered some

 

I used about 13 gallons. Two coats on the entire interior, trunk and wheels wells. Also inside/out of the cowl. I’m sure I added some weight but I added some hp to compensate 🤪 Haven’t driven it yet but I like the dull thump on the panels. Probably will add some of the “insulation showdown “ stuff too. Hydrophobic foam batts and sheathing. Aim to stop the squeaking of interior panels rubbing together. I’ll use some of the reflective/bubble insulation in the heat areas.

 

13 gallons of what?

 

Of the home made lizard skin.

 

Holy moly, how in the world did you manage to get 13 gallons in there?? I think I used... like 2 quarts?? To do three coats on my entire floors/firewall.

FWIW - it is significantly, SIGNIFICANTLY cooler and quieter in my car with the combo of homemade LizardSkin (Mastercoat+ceramic spheres) and layer of Second Skin Luxury Liner to replace the stock underlayment. I was really surprised how much of a difference it made. And total cost was something like $200? I ended up using 2.5 sheets of the Lux Liner, the whole quart of Mastercoat paint, and like a cup of the ceramic spheres.

 

Do you think some skyco ospho will work instead of the rust sealer you used?

Skyco OSPHO Rust Remover Surface Prep, 1 gal Mfr# GALLON - Ace Hardware

Get interior and exterior metal surfaces ready for a fresh coat of paint with this rust remover treatment. Find Skyco OSPHO Surface Prep at Ace.

www.acehardware.com

Or just go with the same sealer you used?

For the paint, do you think epoxy primer laced with the ceramic spheres will work instead of the chassis black paint? I have the ospho rust treatment stuff and a couple gallons of epoxy primer. Money is getting tight for me and I'd hate to buy more when I can use what I have.

As for the paint my interior has now, do you think it's necessary to strip down all the paint or clean any debris and scuff then apply rust treatment where necessary, wax/grease remover and epoxy paint? I can't wait to get started 😁

 

Unfortunately I have no insight on the ospho... never used it, but maybe someone else can chip in on that. The Master Series Silver stuff I used was really, really good, but it is certainly not the only product you can use!

One of the strengths of the MSS stuff is that it functions as a fully sealed surface on its own (so, not porous). If the ospho leaves a similar finish, then yes you should be fine to mix the ceramic spheres into your existing can of epoxy primer and have at it directly on top. If not, then probably what I would do is put down a layer of straight epoxy primer first (to seal the surface), then mix the spheres into the remaining epoxy to put down another couple coats on top of that.

Regardless of what products you end up going with, the beauty of those ceramic spheres is that you can use them in literally any paint. So whatever you put them in is going to be totally fine, as far as the spheres are concerned. Really what you need to worry about is making sure the paint you use is going to hold up over time and not invite rust - probably epoxy primer is fine for that as long as you have good adhesion.

When I did my car, I stripped probably about 75% of the paint before I got tired of it. I wire wheeled all the loose flaky stuff off and scuffed everything real good with a scuff pad/wheel, then wiped down with wax/grease remover to get the dust out of there. That's doing it the right way - I am real paranoid about these things as I have had a lot of trouble getting paint to stick to anything in the past. Well, it turns out that the MSS will adhere to literally anything except gobs of grease, so I totally could have just slapped it over any and all surfaces with probably minimal to no prep. And in the future on other cars, I will do exactly that.

For your chosen products, you will need to consult the manufacturer/instructions to see what's recommended and what you can get away with as far as surface prep goes. If I were you, I'd err on the side of caution, as you do not want that nice paint delaminating and peeling up under the carpet where you can't see it. Good way to get rust starting without knowing about it. Of course, in CA it probably doesn't matter! But those spheres will be most effective if they are actually attached to a surface, probably

 

Unfortunately I have no insight on the ospho... never used it, but maybe someone else can chip in on that. The Master Series Silver stuff I used was really, really good, but it is certainly not the only product you can use!

One of the strengths of the MSS stuff is that it functions as a fully sealed surface on its own (so, not porous). If the ospho leaves a similar finish, then yes you should be fine to mix the ceramic spheres into your existing can of epoxy primer and have at it directly on top. If not, then probably what I would do is put down a layer of straight epoxy primer first (to seal the surface), then mix the spheres into the remaining epoxy to put down another couple coats on top of that.

Regardless of what products you end up going with, the beauty of those ceramic spheres is that you can use them in literally any paint. So whatever you put them in is going to be totally fine, as far as the spheres are concerned. Really what you need to worry about is making sure the paint you use is going to hold up over time and not invite rust - probably epoxy primer is fine for that as long as you have good adhesion.

When I did my car, I stripped probably about 75% of the paint before I got tired of it. I wire wheeled all the loose flaky stuff off and scuffed everything real good with a scuff pad/wheel, then wiped down with wax/grease remover to get the dust out of there. That's doing it the right way - I am real paranoid about these things as I have had a lot of trouble getting paint to stick to anything in the past. Well, it turns out that the MSS will adhere to literally anything except gobs of grease, so I totally could have just slapped it over any and all surfaces with probably minimal to no prep. And in the future on other cars, I will do exactly that.

For your chosen products, you will need to consult the manufacturer/instructions to see what's recommended and what you can get away with as far as surface prep goes. If I were you, I'd err on the side of caution, as you do not want that nice paint delaminating and peeling up under the carpet where you can't see it. Good way to get rust starting without knowing about it. Of course, in CA it probably doesn't matter! But those spheres will be most effective if they are actually attached to a surface, probably

Wow! Now that's what I call a reply! Hahaha
I'll call for the Mss stuff and ask if it will be okay with my primer. If yes, I'll just get that and apply my laced epoxy primer over it. I'll brush on the sealer because I know if I use a gun I'll over use that stuff.

I'll get 2 quarts so I can do my trunk, inside of my doors, roof and floor/firewall

I need to hurry and finish this beast so I can tear up the streets but it also needs to be done correctly

 

I used Second Skin on my coupe and was very happy with the results. A knuckle rap on the roof or doors produces a very damped thunk and heat and sound were significantly reduced. I plan on using it on my two Triumph projects.

 

Knuckle wrap?
You kids and your slang

 

Oh, and I'm not sure which of my posts you've seen, so here's a link to the methodology one in case you just saw the review one. It is exactly as exhaustive as usual

Redoing floors the "right" (hard??) way: an...

I recently started a major interior overhaul for Jane, and thought that I would post what I've been up to, what I've been using, and why I've been doing it! Just general information and silliness for the next person who finds themselves in my shoes. Jane has been torn down for months...

www.vintage-mustang.com

 

Kelly, I'm curious when you added the ceramic spheres did it give you a sandpapery feel on the surface or was the paint thick enough to have a smooth finish?

 

The first coat did have a very sandpapery feel. The paint I used, the Mastercoat Chassis Black, was a lot thinner than I thought it would be, so that absolutely contributed - I would not expect a thicker paint to have a sandpapery feel at all (and reviews by homeowners who've used the spheres in latex paint confirms this). I ended up putting on 3 thin coats and by the time the 3rd coat was dry, everything felt textured but certainly not sandpapery - more like a bedliner, I guess. I found that because the paint was so thin, the spheres were not super well coated so they were still a little easy to scratch up. So I put a final coat of Chassis Black (no spheres) on top and that filled it all in and sorted it out - surface is still a little textured feeling but it's pretty glossy and it's nearly impossible to scratch.

Using a thicker paint would have circumvented this probably and made it easier to put on thicker coats with better self leveling, but I made the Chassis Black work and I am very pleased with the results.

For more info on exactly this subject, check out the end of the first post in my thread here - I know it is wordy but it does go into all of this!

Redoing floors the "right" (hard??) way: an...

I recently started a major interior overhaul for Jane, and thought that I would post what I've been up to, what I've been using, and why I've been doing it! Just general information and silliness for the next person who finds themselves in my shoes. Jane has been torn down for months...

www.vintage-mustang.com

 

That wasn’t easy. A little spraying, a little rolling and a little brushing. Two coats and it was a mess. That took care or all the panel vibrations. Now I’m working on the the sound waves.