Here are a few

Deutsch

Deutsch Products

www.wirecare.com

 

Also wirecare is good but the "buy deutsch" site is better. Same resellers but it's tailored more to connectors and they also list the amphenol series equivalents that can be less expensive than the deutsch brand. They're (amphenol and deutsch) both owned by TE so using either will be a great option. The buydeutsch site also has a wider selection of the shell boots and also autosport connectors (if you'd so like to spring for them!). For what I've found looking around they're usually pretty competitive as well.

BuyDeutsch.com | Genuine Deutsch Products

We specialize in the exclusive distribution and technical support of Deutsch connectors. Authorized stocking distributor of 0460-202-16141, 0462-201-16141, 0460-202-20141, 0462-201-20141, Deutsch DT connectors, Deutsch terminals, Deutsch contacts, Deutsch HD36, Deutsch HD34, Deutsch HDP26...

www.buydeutsch.com

 

I need a firewall connector for some aftermarket wiring. I need a 10 pin connector that can handle up to 12 ga. wiring. I found the one below on Amazon. But I'm circumspect about the quality and I'd prefer one that's a circular mount and doesn't use the four small mounting screws the below example uses. Any suggestions?

I'm always a big fan of deutsch. Could you give some more information on how many conductors you have that you'd like to be 12AWG? also, do they need to be 12AWG or are you planning something out? What's it being used for, etc?

 

I actually need two leads to be 14AWG. The rest are 16AWG and then I'd like two spares capable of 12AWG. But if the spares were 14AWG, that would be ok.

 

I have used Amphenol connectors for work and in military.

They are a pain in the butt to solder wires to the terminals.

Connectors take up a lot of space, especially for flange mounts.

Have to be careful about cross threading too.

Very time consuming, reliable if done correctly.

I personally have seen water ingress on the backside of these connectors as well.

Great connectors…for 1950’s.

BTW, they are used in military and utility equipment….$$$$$

Hope this helps.

 

I use Deutsch (Or the Amphenol equivalent. Cross compatible) in my cars. With some cheapy ($40?) Amazon closed barrel crimpers.

 

I'll chime in with my $0.02 worth.... Maybe consider TWO connectors with a smaller number of pins versus one large one, especially if they go to different locales in the passenger compartment?

 

The issue with Deutsch requiring two different terminal sizes (if you need to go down to 10-12 gauge) is I believe they are only available in the round style, not the rectangular style, and I find those to be much more of a pain to remove wires (Although very convenient for 20+ wires)

 

Deutsch or Amphenol. Both well known quality bulkhead connectors. I have used both with good results. I see no need for 12 gauge pins....I upgraded all chassis side wires to 14 gauge myself...but anything that required more amperage I just ran through an engine-bay mounted relay using a smaller gauge wire to trigger it(IE, electric fan, headlights, starter).

 

Is there a reason you want a firewall connector?

In race cars, they make replacing the engine easier. In OEMs they make manufacturing and warranty work easier.

But in a collector car, I'm not convinced that the additional failure point is worth it. You can use a large diameter grommet and avoid the issue.

 

Is there a reason you want a firewall connector?

In race cars, they make replacing the engine easier. In OEMs they make manufacturing and warranty work easier.

But in a collector car, I'm not convinced that the additional failure point is worth it. You can use a large diameter grommet and avoid the issue.

Right up until the point you have to pull the engine and realize that you then have to disconnect every wire separately from its sensor/component. A grommet is great right up until the point you actually have to work on your car....and lets be real..its a classic car, you are going to have to work on it...chances are the engine will come out multiple times in the typical lifetime. I have personally never experienced a firewall bulkhead connector failure...not even a stock '66 bulkhead connector failure...much less something as hermetical as Amphenol. I just love being able to disconnect all my engine wiring in less than 10 seconds by twisting the connector(at last count I had 42 wires for the engine connector).

You are correct though, bulkhead connectors are not needed, they just make everything much easier.

 

I'm not sure it's much easier.

If you have port injection, you have 8 injectors, distributor, tps, coolant temp, air temp, and IAC. I'd say that's maybe 10 minutes of work to disconnect. Even on my tube frame race car, I avoided them. Disconnecting all of the sensors/injectors/etc was no big deal.

I also don't plan to pull the engine very often. The last engine was in for 30+ years.

-Kyle

 

That's why i made the last recommendation of using the grommet + additional connectors. Kind of gets you the best of both worlds and will be fine for most people, should they need it. Realistically though even if you have to disconnect the individual pieces it's not bad. More when you have everything clamped, tied, strained, etc. and even that is just a few snips away.

 

Connectors (terminals, plugs and receptacles) are typically rated for amps, which dictates a wire gauge range. So, you can say "under 13A" and Deutsch will steer you towards Size 16, accepting 16 to 14 AWG wire, with multiple ways to secure (crimp, solder, etc). Then pick the connector type that uses those parts.

The Deutsch catalog may help plan, and then shop for those pieces you have determined to use. Their array of connector types is on pages 6 through 10. All the terminal options, seals and such are listed in each type's section. There are literally hundreds of competing connector types in thousands of variations from many makers. Have fun!

 

I would like to see someone sell the OEM style connectors but with the ability to take them apart, change pins, etc. Has anyone seen anything like this, or some type of connector that fits into the opening of the firewall without having to cut or drill the metal?

 

There's a good variety of "pinnable" bulkhead connectors that could be used in the factory locations with a bit of "modification".

 

I saw some mention of using a grommet instead. Any suggestions on a good firewall grommet for about 8 wires 14AWG to 16AWG?

 

Amphenol , Switchcraft , Cannon , and Neutrik make the best connectors.

 

I deal with these circular connectors on almost a daily basis but I have no experience with the non-aviation ones and I would be interested in seeing the removal and crimp tools for these. They look ok from the picture ( metal body, etc)
As far as the commercial variety, we classify them by pin size: 20,16 and 12 gauge are the most common. Most connectors are all 20's or 16's or 12, although there are some lesser used mixed configurations. Some are pretty pricey and places like Newark and Moser sell them and have a good selection as far as circular connectors if you want top quality connectors.
I am guessing the generic China copies of the DMC turret head crimpers look identical and will probably do just as good a job at a fraction of the price.
Good crimpers will adjust to pin size as well as wire gauge size.

I don't believe I have ever seen a bulkhead connector that was not flange mount in some way. I would think a jam nut style mount could twist over time or loosen with vibration.
Aircraft wire is generally tin or silver coated copper and most common is 20,16 and 12. gauge. You will never use a larger wire than the pin. For example, if you want to use 14 gauge wire, you would use a 12 gauge pin and not try to stuff it into a 16 gauge contact. 16 gauge aircraft wire is probably equivalent to 14 gauge automotive wire in current carrying capability. They have similar size sockets/pins with smaller cups for different wires.
I don't think for automotive, I would hesitate on folding a wire over inside the crimp cup to get a good solid crimp.

I see very very few solder pins in connectors. They just don't seem to use them in commercial aviation, and if they do, its usually very small, low density connectors.
The aftermarket inexpensive connectors probably don't suffer from this problem, but some aircraft connectors are almost identical EXCEPT the keying. The part number will be almost identical except the keying in the part number.. This is to make them idiot proof when close proximity to each other. Some still manage to destroy them trying to mate them.
If you are concerned about moisture, first rule is to insert any unused sockets/pins into the connector even if not used, at least on the moisture prone side. This will help to seal out moisture and also you will have some spare pins handy if you ever need them. Boeing makes a green sealant for the rear of connectors that ends up the consistency of green jello, but it has been my experience that for the most part, sealing up a connector usually just traps water inside if it does get in. Connectors should be positioned where water intrusion will be limited, if possible.

I think to sum it up. The round circular connectors are cool, efficient, durable and extremely reliable, but can be very expensive and tooling can become an issue and if I didn't get take-offs for free, I would probably go with the plastic style rectangular offerings from Deutsch or similar with good weather proofing.

 

I deal with these circular connectors on almost a daily basis but I have no experience with the non-aviation ones and I would be interested in seeing the removal and crimp tools for these. They look ok from the picture ( metal body, etc)
As far as the commercial variety, we classify them by pin size: 20,16 and 12 gauge are the most common. Most connectors are all 20's or 16's or 12, although there are some lesser used mixed configurations. Some are pretty pricey and places like Newark and Moser sell them and have a good selection as far as circular connectors if you want top quality connectors.
I am guessing the generic China copies of the DMC turret head crimpers look identical and will probably do just as good a job at a fraction of the price.
Good crimpers will adjust to pin size as well as wire gauge size.

I don't believe I have ever seen a bulkhead connector that was not flange mount in some way. I would think a jam nut style mount could twist over time or loosen with vibration.
Aircraft wire is generally tin or silver coated copper and most common is 20,16 and 12. gauge. You will never use a larger wire than the pin. For example, if you want to use 14 gauge wire, you would use a 12 gauge pin and not try to stuff it into a 16 gauge contact. 16 gauge aircraft wire is probably equivalent to 14 gauge automotive wire in current carrying capability. They have similar size sockets/pins with smaller cups for different wires.
I don't think for automotive, I would hesitate on folding a wire over inside the crimp cup to get a good solid crimp.

I see very very few solder pins in connectors. They just don't seem to use them in commercial aviation, and if they do, its usually very small, low density connectors.
The aftermarket inexpensive connectors probably don't suffer from this problem, but some aircraft connectors are almost identical EXCEPT the keying. The part number will be almost identical except the keying in the part number.. This is to make them idiot proof when close proximity to each other. Some still manage to destroy them trying to mate them.
If you are concerned about moisture, first rule is to insert any unused sockets/pins into the connector even if not used, at least on the moisture prone side. This will help to seal out moisture and also you will have some spare pins handy if you ever need them. Boeing makes a green sealant for the rear of connectors that ends up the consistency of green jello, but it has been my experience that for the most part, sealing up a connector usually just traps water inside if it does get in. Connectors should be positioned where water intrusion will be limited, if possible.

I think to sum it up. The round circular connectors are cool, efficient, durable and extremely reliable, but can be very expensive and tooling can become an issue and if I didn't get take-offs for free, I would probably go with the plastic style rectangular offerings from Deutsch or similar with good weather proofing.

Honestly, when I do the pins, the crimper I bought specifically for it didn't work at all...so I simply used a more generic crimper and silvered the pins with solder for extra peace of mind. The only circuit you don't want to even silver the the pins is the O2 sensor circuits...and those have their own wiring that is run through a grommet. Most of the kits come with plastic placeholders for the pins you don't use. I ended up using all of mine, but I keep the spares in a drawer.

 

Soldering is back-burnered in aviation due to the variables in application. We've had emergency landings due to both solder-wicking vibration failures, and crimp termination junction vibration failures. To-spec crimping is more consistent, whether or not it's "better", and the engineers and fly-boys want to know exactly what to expect. It's also much cheaper on the production line for any purpose, so... for your car, I say do what works for it and you, and know how to do it right.

WBO2 and EGT are examples of stuff you don't want to modify before the first connection, as they are calibrated on that first section of wire resistance and voltage drop. After that connection you can do whatever you like.