[Hemikiller]

If you think that's rust, don't move to the Northeast....

 

[mikeyhunts]

If you think that's rust, don't move to the Northeast....

Ha! No thanks!
I like Texas..



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[4EVER17]

Lots of great ideas, especially some of the products that have been mentioned where you can submerge the rusted item. But for those items that can't be submerged, might I recommend a PPG product that for some reason most people have never heard of CFX744, also called Corrokleen. This product is a gel, and is citrus based so no worries about getting rid of it or crazy smells. I have seen metal with actual rusted scale with this left on it for a few hours and take it right down to bare clean steel. Below is pulled right from the PPG web site



"CFX744 - CorroKleen™ 44 Rust Remover - is an environmentally friendly citrus based product designed for use on ferrous metals to remove mild to moderate rust and mill scale. The thick gel formula hangs well on vertical surfaces, but still allows you to apply the material into hard to reach areas. CFX744 is free of phosphates or other strong acids, making it a great alternative to traditional rust removers, sandblasting, or grinding."

 

[66Ccode]

Master coat also has a product for removing rust...

 

[stephen_wilson]

Master coat also has a product for removing rust...

IMO they are all probably very similar, despite the marketing. FWIW I have been using the MS/MC metal prep.

 

[Woodchuck]

So, I'll throw this out for everyone to digest...

There are basically FOUR different rust removal methods. They are:
1. Abrasives (sanding, grinding, etc.)
2. Chemical chelation (EvapoRust)
3. Chemical conversion (Acids)
4. Chemical reversion (Electrolysis)

NONE of the 4 methods will restore the metal to its pre-oxidized (rusted) state but some may be better than others, depending on the piece and its use.

For instance, abrasion can be very effective at removing rust that has not penetrated very deeply as the ferrous oxide is simply whisked away. The down-side is that it is frequently necessary to also remove some "good metal" to ensure that all the rust has been removed.

Chemical chelation is where a chemical agent, such as EvapoRust, attracts and bonds to the ferrous oxide particles and after a period of immersion when the piece is removed the rust stays behind. That's why, after a while, the EvapoRust solution becomes "inert" as it has absorbed its limit of ferrous oxide. The advantages are that the rust can be effectively removed without further damage to the piece, although the area once occupied by "good metal" that turned rusty will now be gone.

Chemical conversion is a process where a chemical, typically an acid such as phosphoric (Coca Cola), acetic (vinegar), etc., are applied to the ferrous oxide and chemically convert (change) it to an inert compound. Phosphoric acid will convert ferrous oxide into iron phosphate which is not reactive to water and oxygen. Acetic acid when applied to ferrous oxide chemically converts it into iron acetate. Iron acetate, unlike iron phosphate, is water-soluble and, thus, when a rinsed will be carried away with the rinse water. Citric acid, on the other hand, is a chelating agent, like EvapoRust in that it carries the ferrous oxide away by binding with the metal, pulling it from the "good metal" surface and, as such, the piece should be thoroughly washed afterward. The advantages are that the process can be thorough and also chemically etches the metal promoting good paint adhesion (provided the chemical residue is thoroughly removed before coating).

Chemical conversion is a process where, through electrolysis, chemical compounds and a sacrificial anode convert the ferrous oxide back into iron. Typically, a water solution is diluted with sodium carbonate (wash soda) which is an alkaline salt. Electrical current passing through the solution along with the dissimilar metals (rust and the anode) cause a chemical reaction that converts the ferrous oxide back into iron, from the anode. Since the rust has already "mechanically" separated from the "good metal" the electrolysis process will not return the metal to its "pre-damaged" state. The newly "unrusted" metal can now be rinsed away. Electrolysis also produces some potentially dangerous byproducts, like hydrogen gas, so be sure to exercise caution. The advantages of electrolysis are cost (water and wash soda is relatively cheap) so large items can be immersed at relatively low cost and re-bar can be used as the sacrificial anode. Also, the disposal of the waste solution isn't an issue...unless you have some non-iron loving plants in the area.

So, depending on what you have that needs the rust removed there are quite a few choices out there.

 

[66Ccode]

Has anyone tried Corroseal?? Reviews sound good..

 

[j persons]

The insides of my car have been treated with Ospho for almost a year now. It stays indoors and there is zero rust on the treated surfaces. I live in an extremely humid area, second only to New Orleans, and the damp weather has failed to develop any rust on the treated surfaces. Ospho is available at most hardware stores for about $30/gallon. Ospho is applied either by wiping it on or with a spray bottle. Let it sit for about 10 minutes, neutralize with fresh water and immediately dry. I used a leaf blower to insure it was dry. Do small areas because you don't want to let it dry naturally, it must be neutralized with the water before it dries. For primer, if you are going to use a 2K epoxy, use Kirker, it's supposed to work well with Ospho.

 

[mikeyhunts]

GREAT feedback guys!!
Thank you very much!



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[Mike the old grump]

T9 boeshield will prevent rust for years on parts stored inside.

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another similar product would be Corrosion X HD CorrosionX Heavy Duty