Maybe pull the spark plugs and spin the engine with the starter until the oil gets pumped throughout the engine.

 

What kind of gas is in the tank? It it’s got ethanol in it, it likely has a bunch of water in it now, and it’s probably pretty skunky either way.

It may be worth your time to drain the tank, replace the fuel, pump some through the system into a cup, and pull the top off your carburetor to suck the gas out of the bowl.

 

Turn the key and start it.

 

When i was in the navy my car sat for 9 or 10 months at a time while i was away
i just get the battery charged up. crank it over to fill the bowls
that would be enough to lubricate the top end and just start it .
id run it around to get it hot enough for an oil change. fill it with fresh gas and just go
the motor is still going strong today

 

This^ charge up the battery and giver the onions

 

As a man with a building full of cars that don't always get run on an annual basis, I agree with the above... Crank her up and drive. But make sure you drive enough to burn through that tank of fuel.

 

Use a turkey baster to slurp the old brake fluid out of the master cylinder and refill with new DOT 3. If you really want to do it right, bleed all four corners

 

I've had cars that sat 10 years that didn't require that. 1 year, to a car and fluids, assuming it's not parked on a beach, is but a blip in time. And if a brake cylinder is weeping or float sticking, you find that out in short order.

 

Animals!

 

I can never seem to drive all mine at least once a year either, but when I do, I pump the gas and crank er up. Right or wrong, no issues so far..

 

Personally, If I had a car sit for a year, I'd first check tire pressure and then do a quick visual on all vital fluids (oil, coolant, ps, master cylinder, and atf (again after starting). Attempt to crank and proceed with addressing other issues from there. If the battery is dead, then you need to charge. If it cranks, but doesn't start, then the carburator choke may be sticking, etc. Once running, put it in gear and immediately test the brakes. If your car regularly sits for prolonged periods, a gas stabilizer may be a good idea.

 

Brake fluid starts out clear, and then somehow turns dark. Ask yourself why that is. And then ask yourself if you’re ok with it, and if there’s something cheap and easy you can do about it.

If you want to roll those dice over five bucks and five minutes, you do you.

 

True... It's a matter of context... Milk goes bad over time. Does that justify pouring it down the sink 3 hours after you bought it? Another gallon of milk isn't a fortune, and after all, you don't want food poisoning.

We tend to overreact to research papers. Especially when they're disseminated by the oil companies and car manufacturers who want you to pay them to replace it all at a ridiculously accelerated rate.

 

I agree with some of what has been said above, like image98 said about the tires and tire pressure, do a visual of the outside of the car. Also, as he mentioned check the fluids even if just opening up the radiator cap and looking down in there to see if it's full. I'd check the brake fluid as well as do a slow roll around the neighborhood first to make sure your brakes are still fully operational. Lastly, I'd have a few rags, towels, old shirts as well as a fire extinguisher laying around in case you get any fuel or other leaks. It never hurts to be prepared and after a car has sat for over a year, if the rubber hoses were old or cracked before, it can lead to a not so pleasant surprise.

 

When did parking a car for a year become harder on the car than driving it for a year?

 

It honestly just depends on the car and if you did anything preventative before putting it down for the year. With classic mustangs being almost 60 years old now, it CAN make them a bit more temperamental. Things like dead batteries, e85 or worse fuel and so forth tend to have more of a negative impact on a classic car than they do a brand new, or newer one. Other things like if you have a buddy or family member that can start up the car once a month or so make it easier, by keeping the battery at least somewhat charged and fuel going through it. Different climates make a big difference as well, are you in a tropical climate like Florida or the south, or are you in the midwest or northern part of the country where you typically have very cold winters in the negative degrees consistently? When you put the car away, was it having any issues at the time? Some people don't do any maintenance to their cars and just put them away for the winter to then have several issues next spring. As mentioned before, this is especially true with belts, fuel lines or hoses and other things with rubber that can become brittle and crack. I had one of my classics sit for just over a year as well, went out and it started right up without any issues. Another had a leak coming from a rubber fuel hose, of which I ended up swapping that out for a hard line. It honestly depends on a multitude of different things.

 

I better go buy a lottery ticket then.... same brake fluid in my 65 GT that's been in it for at least 20 years. It sits in the barn, gets driven maybe 5-15 miles a year every other or 3rd year, and still manages to stop perfectly well. I've never added any fluid to it nor have I seen any leaks. Come to think of it- my '38 may have the original brake fluid in it as well....

 

I've been overseeing our collection for 43 years, and I still have cars that predate our collection phase, like dad's 1972 Mark IV he bought new. Old systems eventually crust up. We deal with it when it gives signs. But 1 year? It's like 1 minute in an hour.

 

Wasn't it Ford itself that said to change the oil every 6,000 miles..... and the oil filter every other?

 

Of ALL the things to half-ass, it seems many of you chose brakes. Wow. Like I said, you do you. Just stay out from behind my car.

 

I think you're missing my points and/or message. And to all, always make sure the E-brake is adjusted and functional. You can't anticipate everything, and that's the backup system. I've prided myself for decades for maintaining functional and reliable vehicles. What I don't have time for is wasted energy, and unnecessary efforts. If I could count the number of cars I've bought, where the owners provided detailed service records and overwrought replacing of everything constantly, only for the car to fall to hell in short order, or even fail just on the first drive, after I've acquired. It has caused me to have plenty of cynicism, I'll admit. I've learned with experience that "provide proactive service" and " don't mess with success" are both valuable statements.

 

I used to flush out my brake fluid
Every 4 or 5 years.
I since got old tired and lazy
Haven't touched them since 2014.
Talking maybe 3000 miles on each

Now I'm afraid to start snapping bleeder screws.

Maybe this spring I'll do them again and prepare myself for an uncesessry project

 

I used to flush out my brake fluid
Every 4 or 5 years.
I since got old tired and lazy
Haven't touched them since 2014.
Talking maybe 3000 miles on each

Now I'm afraid to start snapping bleeder screws.

Maybe this spring I'll do them again and prepare myself for an uncesessry project

Try this, 6 point wrench, 8 oz. ball peen, sharp LITTLE cracks to the wrench. I haven't twisted a bleeder off in 25 years, some of which was as a master tech. Technically, snapping them off is incorrect (lol) you twist them off. The sharp little blows breaks them lose.

 

I don’t give a rats ass what you do with your cars. Just don’t discourage others from doing sensible maintenance with theirs.

 

Wow..... I think that you and I disagree on the definition of "sensible". Sorry I rubbed you wrong.

 

Odds are the car will start on the old gas, top performance? Probably not. Cars in storage draw moisture. I live in northeast Ohio, the temps over winter vary greatly. Sixty miles from lake Erie with lots of humidity. I've seen days where the garage floor gets really wet. So do yourself a big favor, pull the drums, peel back the edge of the wheel cylinder boots, just a bit at the bottom. If they're dry, you're good, any fluid and you've got a problem. Nothing worse than ruining a good set of brakes shoes with leaking fluid. Worse, you blow a cylinder and have an accident. Check the fluid in the master as others have stated. I pour a little oil down the carb, leave it set for a day then crank it a few rotations with the coil wire off. Dry starts are bad, upper cylinder lubrication is a good thing. I have a 70 Mach1 351C. It's near impossible to pull plugs and squirt the cylinders. So down the carb it goes. Basically a safety check is in order, fluids, tire pressures, belts hoses, Once you're up and running, put a little heat in the brakes BEFORE you need them. Sometimes aged brakes will pull the first few stops. Check your emergency brake. As someone else stated, oil doesn't age, it just gets contaminated with use. Any moisture is cooked out at full operating temp. Use a little sense the first few miles, then do your thing. Enjoy.

 

It has only sat for a year not a decade, so I wouldn't think you would really have to use a wrench and try to turn it over manually first etc.

What I would do is get the car running again and see what it actually needs. Then if it is running well after some fresh gas, change the oil and filter. Spinning it over first by the starter isn't a bad idea.

As for the brakes I would first look for obvious leaks and check the master cylinder. Next I would pull the wheels and visually inspect them. Then I would go for a round the block drive and see how well they work and check for leaks again.

And make sure the parking brake works.

 

Everyone who wrenches on cars, boats, motorcycles, planes have there own idea of what should be done. Personally, after only a yr? I'd worry more about the crappy fuel issue. But if the fuel tank doesnt smell like varnish, give it a go.

 

I live in Ohio, 60 miles south of Lake Erie. Average winter temp is 32, which means freeze almost thaw, repeat, daily. That Alberta Clipper thing, right down main street. I've seen spring days you literally mopped the floor SEVERAL times! I've got a big fan I've ran on those days, but the dehumidifier in the long run may prove to be the cheaper solution. I agree with you about the different cars, Mustang in 38 years has had minimal issues, The DeSoto has had brake issues, I just went through them (again) a few months ago. Pedal went to the floor. It sat for 3 years, thought about taking it out but like you lol, assumed brake issues, and waited 2 more years. Like I always say, if you're uncertain about meat or produce, check it again in a week.