[CUAviator]

I do recall reading somewhere that the factory Ford pump should not be used with the TCP rack, but for the life of me I cannot remember where I read it. Not sure if that's the cause of the groaning though. After I read that statement, I ordered the KRC pump with the rack just to be on the safe side.

Turns out I’ve got a “Type II power steering pump”

This is a receipt from the previous owner. Is there anything I can glean from this info? Should this work with a TCP power steering rack? I believe it’s GM.


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[j persons]

The "Type II" designation is to differentiate that pump from the GM "canned ham" pump. I'm using a KRC pump along with a Unisteer rack which is a GM rack and using the KRC fluid. Haven't run it yet, but figured the KRC fluid was the best choice.

 

[DrStang]

I've had my TCP/KRC setup for 14 years and I've used different types. Penzoil, off brands. Currently, I use Royal Purple without issue.

 

[CUAviator]

So I took my car in to have steering wheel vibration looked at (starts at 75, gets real bad by 78). They looked at the TCP rack and pinion, they said there was some leakage - I will say that when the incorrect fluid was in there, I would have a red spot on my garage floor. Additionally, when I started looking into all this, we were having that massive freeze here in Texas. One of the warnings of using the wrong fluids is "seal shrinkage". But since I have replaced the ATF F with the proper Napa fluid, I haven't noticed any puddles.
Then, there did test where they turned the wheels side to side using their hands and noticed a slight "notch feel or bump" which in the instal manual says can be adjusted out.
I need some reassurance that I don't need to buy a whole new rack. Should the new fluid and adjustment take care of this? If it doesn't does anyone have any recommendations? These things are stupid expensive.

 

[maxoverclock]

So I took my car in to have steering wheel vibration looked at (starts at 75, gets real bad by 78). They looked at the TCP rack and pinion, they said there was some leakage - I will say that when the incorrect fluid was in there, I would have a red spot on my garage floor. Additionally, when I started looking into all this, we were having that massive freeze here in Texas. One of the warnings of using the wrong fluids is "seal shrinkage". But since I have replaced the ATF F with the proper Napa fluid, I haven't noticed any puddles.
Then, there did test where they turned the wheels side to side using their hands and noticed a slight "notch feel or bump" which in the instal manual says can be adjusted out.
I need some reassurance that I don't need to buy a whole new rack. Should the new fluid and adjustment take care of this? If it doesn't does anyone have any recommendations? These things are stupid expensive. View attachment 789813

I just adjusted my TCP rack and it made a huge difference now that it is broken in. My center play is almost completely gone. Highly recommend playing with adjustment before anything. Also, when a part inside my rack loosened up, I just sent the rack to TCP and they fixed it. A lot less expensive then buying a new one.....

 

[Harryburroughs]

I just adjusted my TCP rack and it made a huge difference now that it is broken in. My center play is almost completely gone. Highly recommend playing with adjustment before anything. Also, when a part inside my rack loosened up, I just sent the rack to TCP and they fixed it. A lot less expensive then buying a new one.....

Did you adjust the lash straight away or wait for the 1000 mile break in period ?

 

[maxoverclock]

I waited. I think for me about 800 miles and one track day.


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[Harryburroughs]

I’ve got some free play in the middle which I’m not happy about. I’m about 400 miles in I have not just adjusted it yet.
How much play did you have before you adjusted it

 

[maxoverclock]

Almost none


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[maxoverclock]

It’s pretty easy to adjust. Adjust it now and again after you drive more if it breaks in more...


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[maxoverclock]

Tighten the set screw 1/4 turn and then cycle the rack end to end to confirm there is no binding. Keep tightening in a little at a time until it binds then back it out enough for the bind to go away.


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[Harryburroughs]

It seems my rack is slower than it actually is or maybe that’s just play. It feels like I have to throw the steering wheel to get the car to move quickly. I thought it’s 14 to 1