Good question. I have the same steering system & pump, but my project is not road worthy yet.

Have you tried contacting the manufacturer?

 

Beyond calling TCP and asking them I'd use Ford Type F transmission fluid. It's what Ford spec'd for steering fluid well into the 1990's on everything they made. On a few older (some years ago I mean) moaning and groaning GM rack systems I have swapped out their plain "power steering fluid" in favor of type F with great success.

 

A tale of caution, before using ATF be sure the rack will accept it. While I don't have a TCP, I have a Randall's rack, using a fox era ford pump on my EFI block, I elected to use ATF to accommodate the pump as it only works with ATF. The rack leaked within a week as the ATF ate the seals in the rack. I had to replace the rack. I now use Prestone regular power steering fluid (in the little yellow bottle) and the rack does not leak - however the pump moans and groans and the fluid foams as yours.

I have not found a solution yet, I am living with the noise. I know this doesn't fully answer your question, but wanted to caution about ATF.

GypsyR: Do you recall which racks worked for you?

 

GypsyR: Do you recall which racks worked for you?

I don't use a rack in my car. I was recalling some issues commonly had in the early 1990's with a number of GM cars because their symptoms matched the complaints in the first post. Type F fixed them up quite nicely.

TCP seems weirdly specific in their requirements. A fluid from NAPA listed as generically compatible with Ford and GM OEM fluids. And no other. OK. If I had spent a bunch of money on one of their rack setups I guess I'd be toddling on down to NAPA.

 

The fluid requirements are very specific for TCP and is listed in the Instruction manual. They are:

FLUID REQUIREMENT: The only medium recommended for use in our rack-and-pinion system is
petroleum (OIL). DO NOT USE SILICONE SYNTHETIC FLUID, any automatic transmission fl uid, or any
fl uid containing a “resealing” additive. Materials such as silicones, brake fl uids, water-or glycol-based
hydrostatic fl uids, and phosphate ester-based aviation hydraulic fl uids like Skydrol are incompatible with
the seals in the servo and cylinder and will cause them to swell, shrink, crack, or even dissolve. Damage
or leaks caused by use of these fl uids voids the manufacturer’s warranty.
If the label does not say “Contents: Petroleum Oil” do not use it.

Approved Fluids:

United States - NAPA Brand – PSF 9832 (1 qt.), PSF 9801 (1 gal.), NHF 85401 (1 gal.)

Canada - NVO 15040 (10 liter) -

Europe - Pentosin CHF7.1 - 1404106 (BMW/Audi dealerships)

The remote reservoir has to be mounted as high up on the radiator support or inner fender or shock tower as possible, and there can be no hard turns in the high pressure hose to the pump otherwise when you turn the wheels while sitting still the pump will groan. Yes, mine still does it, but not as bad since I mounted the reservoir on the shock tower as high up as I could.

Hope that helps.

 

I maybe actually answered my own question (I hope)

KRC (the pump manufacturer for the TCP) sells their own version of the PS fluid. Summit sells it, so I will be trying that one.
I'll let everyone know, when I get it swapped out

 

The issue with using something different is that it will eat the seals, and that is not covered under warranty, ask me how I know. :crying:

When I first received my TCP rack it said to use general ATF, which I did. The rack started to leak. I called TCP and they said I was to use the NAPA brand, and that it was in the instructions. I sent them a screen shot of the fluid requirements they sent me and they told me that they updated the instructions. The end story was that I had to take the rack out, send it to them, they re-sealed it and charged me $399 for the privilege of them not telling me about the fluid change.

Just be careful of what you use.

 

TCP has very specific instructions on what fluid to use. I use the recommended plain Jane Napa PS fluid.

Do you have a remote reservoir? Did you mount it high enough? Did you burp the system?

I beat the crap out of my PS when autocrossing and never get any groaning.

 

I have a remote reservoir. I am not sure what you mean by burping the system. I spun up the system by hand. Then after speaking to tech, I rechecked by rotating the system from side to side while on jackstands.
I used generic petroleum based fluid

There is no problem when the engine is cold. When it warms up the fluid looked frothy like beer. It goes away when it cools, even a bit and the pump quiets down

The link to the KRC fluid; https://www.krcpower.com/ecommerce/power-steering-fluid/psf-10032001.asp

 

I talked to KRC and their customer service is awesome, very helpful guys there. I have the integral reservoir myself and have a slight groan at idle and it gets loud when I turn the wheel when parked. They told me to do what happystang said and burp the system since the integral pumps are harder to get rid of all the air. First, make sure there's enough fluid and it's high enough, etc like others have said. Then, get the system warm and drive around for a bit. I didn't quite understand the actual burp process but he made it sound like you just push down on the cap itself and there's a pressure release in the cap that will get some of the remaining air out of it. Since these are high performance pumps made for racing, they're non vented so fluid won't spill in the engine bay and cause a fire. From what I've read, the foaming is expected.

One issue I'm dealing with now is when standing still and I crank the wheel, I'm getting a loud vibration through the wheel.

 

did you get this issue sorted? I have a similar issue on a brand new rack and pump.

 

bump

 

I am just finishing my pump install on my TCP rack and I did a lot of research and the same advice from above is true. Plain Jane NAPA PS steering fluid that is Petroleum Distillates should be fine. I bought two quarts and new belt for my system yesterday. I would have had it completed yesterday but it took me all day to get the bracket mounted properly because all of the bolts I received with my kit were too long so I had to source new ones and shorten all of the supplied spacers to match. My pump bracket needs to be about 2.5" from the head to line up the pulley properly. After that it is just hoses and tie rods.

 

I didn’t see this earlier, but no I haven’t sorted it out yet. I’m doing other work right now but when it’s done I’ll tackle my PS system.

 

I have a TCP rack. I used the ATF that I thought Ford called for. It groans all the time. Oh man...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

I am running recommended fluid AC Delco 10-5073 / 19329448. Been running same fluid for years without issue. This is one of the recommended fluids from TCP/KRC

 

The "Type II" designation is to differentiate that pump from the GM "canned ham" pump. I'm using a KRC pump along with a Unisteer rack which is a GM rack and using the KRC fluid. Haven't run it yet, but figured the KRC fluid was the best choice.

 

I've had my TCP/KRC setup for 14 years and I've used different types. Penzoil, off brands. Currently, I use Royal Purple without issue.

 

So I took my car in to have steering wheel vibration looked at (starts at 75, gets real bad by 78). They looked at the TCP rack and pinion, they said there was some leakage - I will say that when the incorrect fluid was in there, I would have a red spot on my garage floor. Additionally, when I started looking into all this, we were having that massive freeze here in Texas. One of the warnings of using the wrong fluids is "seal shrinkage". But since I have replaced the ATF F with the proper Napa fluid, I haven't noticed any puddles.
Then, there did test where they turned the wheels side to side using their hands and noticed a slight "notch feel or bump" which in the instal manual says can be adjusted out.
I need some reassurance that I don't need to buy a whole new rack. Should the new fluid and adjustment take care of this? If it doesn't does anyone have any recommendations? These things are stupid expensive.

 

I just adjusted my TCP rack and it made a huge difference now that it is broken in. My center play is almost completely gone. Highly recommend playing with adjustment before anything. Also, when a part inside my rack loosened up, I just sent the rack to TCP and they fixed it. A lot less expensive then buying a new one.....

 

I waited. I think for me about 800 miles and one track day.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I’ve got some free play in the middle which I’m not happy about. I’m about 400 miles in I have not just adjusted it yet.
How much play did you have before you adjusted it

 

Almost none


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

It’s pretty easy to adjust. Adjust it now and again after you drive more if it breaks in more...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Tighten the set screw 1/4 turn and then cycle the rack end to end to confirm there is no binding. Keep tightening in a little at a time until it binds then back it out enough for the bind to go away.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

It seems my rack is slower than it actually is or maybe that’s just play. It feels like I have to throw the steering wheel to get the car to move quickly. I thought it’s 14 to 1