That should work. Another solution, if you don't have a welder, is to cut 3 pieces of 3/8 cold rolled and plate them together, as shown, and drill 4 holes, 2 top and 2 bottom, and use rivets (heated and hammered, not "pop" rivets) to securely clamp them together. Bolting should also work...

 

Thanks

 

2 x 4 or 2 x6 on shelf

 

I have one of these cut for each side. I slide them in every time I jack the car off the ground. Simple fix to keep the shock from over extending

Not criticizing - I've seen this approach before but I'm leary of using wood. Having done a lot of woodworking and construction stuff, I don't believe wood has the right characteristics for this application. Not saying it doesn't work because it obviously does - just saying that I am not comfortable using it for this purpose.

 

Careful to not crush the gas line. Brian

 

I have one of these cut for each side. I slide them in every time I jack the car off the ground. Simple fix to keep the shock from over extending

 

Point taken, safety should always be #1!

 

Safety third. 😁

Off The Wall: The Origin of Safety Third

<p>Hey Mike, how did you come up Safety Third?</p>

mikerowe.com

 

I remember seeing this in the shop manual, but can't remember what it was for. Is it so you can do alignment with wheels off, but still keep geometry correct?

 

I think it more to not bind up the strut rod and bushing.

 

I've used the 2x4 method for that kind of work since I've owned my car (40 years....) Now it's not sitting that way for weeks at a time, but for the few hours it takes me to do whatever I was doing it works fine.

 

I have a special tool I use for this. I call it the Shock.

 

I am getting ready to do this very soon (like this weekend) but I cant seem to find lower ball joints for a 67... anyone know where to find them?

 

The short answer is --- On the lower control arm !
Looks like my Oriellys needs to order

My NAPA can order..........

 

I thought maybe I should explain why I don't care for the wood 2x method.

First of all, most of the two-by wood I see in use is pine. It's soft and can be compressed. This can, if conditions are right, cause a piece of lumber to fail.

Second, it's only one piece. I see this as an issue because the grain in a single piece tends to run in one direction, which means that the wood will split along the grain when/if it fails. If it splits, the control arm may suddenly be unsupported and bad things may happen.

If I were to use wood, I would use two one-by pieces of hardwood laminated together such that their grains were perpendicular. That would greatly reduce the risk of failure due to splitting along the grain of a single piece.

Reiterating, I'm not criticizing anyone.

 

This is another version that I use with no welding required:

 

Curious if the size of this tool changes if you have the Arning Drop, since now you are 1 inch lower?

 

That's a good question. I don't think so. It's designed to "catch" a bit before the shock is fully extended. With the upper arm pivot point lower, it will catch a little sooner - still before the shock is fully extended.

 

Perfect. Thanks

 

you need to be a Houdini to get the in. use a 4" long 2x4 and put it in against the grain. If you are lucky they will fall out when you let the car down.
when you forget to take them out they will fall out and not do any or much damage. just cut another one

 

My 69 with the Arning-Shelby drop and the support tool. Brian