Beat it with a stick (Tremec)...

 

Beat it with a stick (Tremec)...

Ditto............

 

Sheesh you guys love spending my money.

If I did a stick coversion, not only do I have to spend the dough on the tremec, then the clutch pedal, than the clutch assembly, then the shifter, then a new drivesahft, then new axles (my 28 splines will be ok with an auto but and my motor but not a stick and this motor), I would prob have to redo the exhaust again....I just hope that I got like a Monday morning intermediary shaft and the new one will be just fine for a long time.

 

Why not call around (the country ) and see if any builders have a more confident prognosis. Your guy may be right, of course.

 

What do you mean if, when it happens again, you'll be installing the C-6. :: If you can shear the hard parts clean, something is always going to be breaking in there. My $.02

 

Sure, make excuses already about the outcome of the CF IV track day. :: It'll be just like Cloney and Emberglo :: and you'll be Emberglo (JK)

 

So the basic diagnosis is that your engine powerful enough to rip your tranny apart ?

So have you ever measured that engine's output? Probably not, I would guess, since to do so would have ripped the tranny apart.

John Harvey

 

I've had the car on a chassis dyno and only put down 355 ft/lbs at the rear tire....but that was with a the shops carb.....maybe I have more now that I run an Artfrombama Special

 

Just curious why you'd put the thing back together again with the same parts expecting it to last longer?

Isn't that the definition of insanity? Doing the same thing over and over again expecting different results.

 

It broke the first time because the Governer valve was bad and the TV cable was set improperly.

2 completely different problems.

It would have broken before running behind a moped, it burnt out because of the bad governer valve and the TV cable which sets the internal pressure for the shifts points was not moving in the same plane of motion as the throttle.

This is the first break directly related to the power of the motor. I have to put it back together the way it is, because there are no more upgrades available for it...its got the best parts in it already. ::

It didn't break till I tried a drag race start...so I should be ok until I can come up with a long term game...or maybe I'll jsut stay off the track (heaven forbid)

 

the upgraded shaft from the AOD-E???

Doesn't anyone make a stouter piece than a stock part for this? There are 5.0 guys doing 10s with that tranny!

 

Uhhh... hmmm...

I know you like your tranny guy, but this BS about "hard parts" not being covered under warranty is just that. If he picked out the torque convertor (which it sounds like he did) he made a judgement call as to what would work best. But its up to you.

I am very glad that it wasnt that direct clutch pack. It had the same symptoms.

PS: I told you that Dextron smells burnt outta the bottle

 

Uh, sure. I ain't buyin' it... unless the AOD's are just paper transmissions there's no way your engines bad-ass enough to blow it up unless you did something to help it do so (like neutral dropping it or something).

I'm callin' booooosheeet on this one

-bob

 

Sure, make excuses already about the outcome of the CF IV track day. It'll be just like Cloney and Emberglo and you'll be Emberglo (JK)

WHAT? Sheesh, golly, man...I mean...hmm...I'm not even sure what that means. I wasn't the one putting out the mosquito fog. :: ::

 

Thank you for the words of encouragement as always Bob.

No neutral dropping for me....I only can relate what was told to me....he told me I could keep the intermediary shaft as a souvenior if I pay the $15 core charge.....like I said...I'm kinda hoping it was a 'monday' part kinda thing.

 

Nick, I know people running 9 and 10 second cars with these!!! http://www.lentechautomatics.com/aodproducts.html

 

I don't buy it either . I could see if you had slicks or street slicks on but I'd think the tires would break loose and spin before the tranny blew from torque .
I snappped the input shaft off in a converter on a C4 but I was goofin around and letting off the throttle between the 1-2 shift and as it shifted hammering the throttle .
The C4 was a version with the smaller / less splined input shaft too .
I can't see it breaking from the engine , unless like someone said it was neutral dropped or something Im sure you did not do . Id be willing to lay odds that a 9 second Mustang , running slicks is laying down atleast the same torque as your car .
You might never see a failure again , you might have just gotten some bum parts . That or the builder did something the tranny did not like .

 

IF you decide to go with a C6, look into having them put the wide-ratio gearset into it. I just got mine out of the shop today with the wide-ratio gearset and bearings instead of thrust washers. The wide ratio has 2.72/1.52/1.00 ratios instead of 2.46/1/46/1.00.

This would let you run a little less rear gear and help keep the revs down on the highway.

 

Sheesh you guys love spending my money.

If I did a stick coversion, not only do I have to spend the dough on the tremec, then the clutch pedal, than the clutch assembly, then the shifter, then a new drivesahft, then new axles (my 28 splines will be ok with an auto but and my motor but not a stick and this motor), I would prob have to redo the exhaust again....I just hope that I got like a Monday morning intermediary shaft and the new one will be just fine for a long time.

what do you think a C6 with a Gear Vendors is going to run? List on a GV is often over $2k, IIRC.

Dont forget to add in the couple of blown AODs to your tally