Vintage Mustang Forums banner

Will this fix reverse lock out rattle?

2K views 21 replies 10 participants last post by  Brian Conway  
#1 ·

I have sorted out my rattling clutch linkage by fitting a roller set up. Now the rattling reverse lock out mechanism is all that’s left and it’s driving me mad. Will a new repop handle rectify this issue? I do not want to go the route of a hurst shifter due to additional cost of purchase and installation although I understand it’s probably a far better solution.
 
#3 ·
My repro shifter handle came with a plastic sleeve that fits between the shifter handle and the metal lock out sliding sleeve that eliminates the rattle.

I had an original that drove me crazy also. I tried adding o rings wrapping a rubber band around it etc. nothing worked other than me holding onto the shifter while I was driving. Finally I saw a repro at a swap meet with the sleeve in it that solved the problem.

Can’t tell if the one in your link has the sleeve or not.
 
#4 ·
My handle has already been rebuilt. This is an internal rattle to do with the lockout. Very annoying!

My repro shifter handle came with a plastic sleeve that fits between the shifter handle and the metal lock out sliding sleeve that eliminates the rattle.

I had an original that drove me crazy also. I tried adding o rings wrapping a rubber band around it etc. nothing worked other than me holding onto the shifter while I was driving. Finally I saw a repro at a swap meet with the sleeve in it that solved the problem.

Can’t tell if the one in your link has the sleeve or not.
Do you have a source for the repro handle you are using? The one I linked above is a Scott Drake part. Other descriptions online say it includes the lock out with cable etc.
 
#13 ·
Do you have a source for the repro handle you are using? The one I linked above is a Scott Drake part. Other descriptions online say it includes the lock out with cable etc.
Sorry I don’t as I bought it used at a swap meet from an individual some years back.

I know the sleeve is a skinnier version of the metal lock out sleeve and has slots on each side so it moves up and down with the metal sleeve when you pull up on the t bar. It’s designed to fit inside the outer metal sleeve and around the handle with the t bar sliding through it. It has a small lip around the top that rides up and down on the top edge of the metal sleeve and fits tight enough to eliminate the rattle altogether. I just assumed this was one of those design improvements in the reproduction market and all the repro handles came this way.

Maybe someone with a 3d printer could design something that would just slide into the sleeve so the t bar would not have to be removed to install it. Just thinking out loud.
 
#9 ·
Well, I tried electrical tape today. It appears there are two little collars at either end of the lock out T handle sleeve which have a plastic ring around them. These collars slip in and out of the T handle sleeve and separate from it. I believe these are what is causing the rattle. I assume they are supposed to he at one with the T handle?

How does the shift knob come off? I was hoping to take it off and slide off the T handle so I can try gluing the little collars into either end and then wrap the shaft beneath with tape.
 
#15 ·
There is a lock nut under the ball.
even if you get the ball off the T and sleeve wont come out as the cable inside is holding it
 
#17 ·
The OEM 4-speed lever had a T handle (68 had a mushroom) mounted on a nylon bushing to prevent rattles. For whatever reason, the nylon breaks up and goes away. I have had success wrapping a piece of nylon sheet around the lever and forcing it into the gap.

New levers, of course, come with the bushing.