Repos sux as far as I'm concerned. Bought Mex casting repo hinges for my passenger side door. (simple replacement, right?) After a day of fossing with alignment, chipping paint and total frustration I compared the repos to originals. I found the casting holes on the repos were an eight of an inch off from the originals(reason for alignment problems). I disassmbled the repos and installed the new parts on the originals and solved the alignment problems and THEN spent $50.00 on painting the door and fender edges. }

 

Well,
3,000 miles ago, of teenage driving I rebuilt the hinges on both doors and I think the driver's door is starting to get a little saga waga! But then again since the daughter is out all day and night with Red, I rarely see it enough to confirm such findings.

 

I've rebuilt the OEM hinges. It's easy to do and the cheapest alternative. Well worth the effort.

I do that over hoping repro versions fit well.

 

If I were in your position I would rebuild your hinges.

 

If I were in your position I would rebuild your hinges.

OK, I've dismantled and blasted them (it's good to work in a machinc shop sometimes )
How the heck do I get the pin that holds the roller for the door catch out? :crazy:

 

If we are on the same page I believe you just grind the "mushroomed" end of the pin and punch it through. Let me know if this is not what you need to know.

 

It goes into a blind hole. I ended up cutting it off with a wire EDM and drilling the center out until I could peel the knurled ridges of the stud out of the hinge. Would have been a big pain in the butt at home...

 

Midpack,

There's a good article on the Mustangs and Fords mag. website.
You can find it here:
http://www.mustangandfords.com/howto/127_0402_hinge_rebuild_ford_door_hinges/index.html

HTH,
Muggs

 

Midpack,

There's a good article on the Mustangs and Fords mag. website.
You can find it here:
http://www.mustangandfords.com/howto/127_0402_hinge_rebuild_ford_door_hinges/index.html

HTH,
Muggs

Good article, thanks. They didn't do anything with that roller that the door catch is supposed to ride on though. That's what was wrong with mine, the pins and bushings are actually in good shape. The roller froze and allowed the catch to cut into the stud/hinge body. I plan to fill the groove in the hinge body with weld and rework it into the original shape, clean up the hole and get the kit with the pins/bushings/roller+stud and catch.

I gotta be out of my mind...

 

I gotta be out of my mind...

Not at all! You're doing it right. That shows that you are in the right frame of mind.

Muggs

 

Probably been answered 100 times, but how do you get the spring back on?

 

I'm wondering if my hinges can be removed and re-installed without removing the fender. I, for some reason cannot get my fender off. I can't find the bolt/nut that is keeping it on the car. I think that I got them all and nothing. It feels like there is one behind the headlight bucket. Can't find it though.

 

After reading 68...'s post on how bad the repo's are, I went home and measured my brand new repo upper hinges, not yet installed. Sure 'nuf, holes are a good 1/8" off from the originals. Too bad, too, because they look good and are really tight. My originals have worn castings and the new bushings and pins wobble around in them. What a dilemma now!

 

My originals have worn castings and the new bushings and pins wobble around in them. What a dilemma now!

As was mentioned in that M&F article, the latemodel hinge kits are bigger dia. as is the OD of the bushings. I'd think you could ream the hole and install slighly larger pin/bushings.