Your plugs look like cr@p. Put a fresh set of plugs in revisit. The Edel is way too easy to set up, so read up. Right now you're way too rich across the entire range, idle to full throttle, and those plugs aren't helping.

 

The funny thing is those plugs were literally new. Once I put them in and started the car, they came out like that. This was the new pair! Lol

 

Do you live at high altitude? It appears you have all the classic symptoms of running extremely rich, but out the box, an Edelbrock carb should be close to correct or maybe slightly lean.

 

are you using the manual choke/

Yes I do use the manual choke, but the car would shut off if I were to choke it!

 

Dude, those plugs looks like they came out of a 2-stroke engine. You need to lean it out a lot. I had an Edelbrock and it's probably the least friendly carb to change the jets in. Taking that thing apart multiple times sucks. Get yourself an AFR meter and the Edelbrock tuning kit.

 

are you using the manual choke/

 

He doesn’t seem to be using it at all in the video. It’s wide open and the fast idle cam is not set.

 

There's typically 3 different functions (circuits) in a carb. Idle, off-idle/midrange, and wide open throttle (wot). Your sparkplug can give you info as to how each of those circuits are performing, the ring (idle), top of porcelain (midrange), deep porcelain (wot). In your case, all 3 are rich.

Sounds stupid, do you have the proper base gasket matched to your carb and manifold, I know there's a couple diff versions for Edel. Grab a can of carb cleaner, spray around the carb base and see if the eng dies. If so, you've found a vacuum leak, fix it. You prob have either a choke setting closed, or a vacuum leak causing your problems.

 

I hear what you are saying; I put the gasket which Edelbrock provided me with the carb.
It is the standard gasket, nothing fancy.

The problem from you are saying is that it is too much gas.
What are ways I can lean it out?

 

Not sure if this is a prob with Edel. But it was a known problem with Rochesters. The plug under the needles, bottom side of the body, would leak. Epoxy was a fix. The only way to see it was to separate the body from the base and check to see if there was gas in the center recess or well. Additionally, you have to pay attention to the passages between the base and the intake base. The wrong gasket can cause a major vacuum leak.

 

Not sure if this is a prob with Edel. But it was a known problem with Rochesters. The plug under the needles, bottom side of the body, would leak. Epoxy was a fix. The only way to see it was to separate the body from the base and check to see if there was gas in the center recess or well. Additionally, you have to pay attention to the passages between the base and the intake base. The wrong gasket can cause a major vacuum leak.

Edelbrocks do not have the same issue as there is no base plate to separate. Those parts are cast as a single unit.

 

Get a carb with an electric choke.

 

I don't think that is going to help the issue.
When I choke it, it kills or prevent the engine to crank when trying to start it.

The best way to get it going (so far) is to have the choke off.
if you watch the video, the engine is cranking but very weakly.

I suspected it could have been the spark plugs.
But I changed them earlier today.

My problem is when I turn the ignition, give it a few pumps of the pedal, the engine doesn't catch.
I have to press the pedal all the way down.
I get so much popping noises.
The firing order is correct, the car when aggressively started up works well w/the spark plugs.

Today I swapped out the AP104s with AP105s, supposed to be hotter spark plugs.
Like I don't understand what the issue is.

 

Part of the problem is that the fuel system isn’t under pressure. Just as a cooling system, the higher the pressure the higher the boiling point. Today’s gas has a lower boiling point than years ago. Your carb’s fuel system is open to the atmosphere. Today’s gas starts to boil off around 94*F and fully cooked off around 106*F. When you shut the car off it’s hotter then 106*F under hood so the gas in the carb is going to evaporate. You now have to pull the gas back up from the tank and that means cranking

 

So here is the thing, when I warm-start the car it is fine.

The initial cold-start (when I let the car sit overnight or let it cool off for awhile) is the hard part.
The idle is very low and weak unless I go full throttle, which again isnt right for these classic cars .

 

One thing I noticed in the video is the choke is wide open. When cold the choke plate should be cracked or at least 1/4 open. Second is the accelerator plunger is on on its highest setting, so when you push the pedal it sprays fuel above the plates down into the intake along with the metered fuel from primary well tube.
Also the fast idle linkage is attached to the choke rod and is designed to holed the throttle valves open during cold startup. The fast idle screw controls Idle speed until you activate the choke further open once the engine is warm.
I think your getting getting flooded right off the bat. That’s why it’s so hard to start.
Im probably wrong about some this but I’m sure someone will correct me. I only have an intermediate knowledge about how the Edwlbrock 1305 and 1406 work. I recommend downloading the manual on edelbrock website.

 

Since the choke's job is to enrich the mix, and he is running absolutely pig rich anyway, I'm not sure how closing the choke could help.

If it were my car, I'd start by verifying timing. Many 'fuel issues' turn out to be improper timing in the end. Use a piston stop, make sure your damper ring hasn't slipped, disconnect and plug the vacuum advance hose, and then see if the distributor is advancing and retarding smoothly, starting at about 12 degrees and winding up around 34 or so. by 3000 (and no more advance past that).

Then with a clean set of plugs, I'd go for a drive and see how it does. At that point, if it's still ridiculously rich, I'd suspect something like too much fuel pressure blowing the needle off the seat in the carb, and flooding. This is actually common with Edelbrock carbs. You can watch when idling, and if it's glugging fuel out the vents, it's obvious.

 

Good point. What the hell do I know anyway. On mine when cold in the morning I close the choke till about a 1/4 the way and my rpm is set to about 1,000 rpm to get things going and warm. After about 30 seconds to a minute I open the choke all the way open which kicks the fast idle cam off the throttle and the idle screw takes over the throttle. It looks to me that his fast idle screw is backed off and running too low rpm at cold startup. Any vehicle when you start it cold needs higher rpm to keep it lit until the cylinders warm up. My recommendation is start fresh. Check the fast idle screw, check the choke angle, check base timing, and total advance, also make sure the rod and jet combo are proper for the setup. Read over the 1405 manual also which will give you all the info you need for that carb.

 

He also mentioned that it drives fine once warm. The issue is cold startup after sitting overnight.

 

You're right about how a choke should work, Def!

 

We haven’t heard an update yet. I am curious if he has remedied the problem.

 

Yes I did thankfully

 

Hey guys!

Apologized for the long awaited response lol, I have been so caught up with school, had to put the stang away for abit.
The problem ended up being a bad coil. My MSD coil must have been shot or faulty, because I put one from Autozone into the car and shes runs like a beauty .

I just want to thank all of you guys for your input.
It really helped me narrow down the issue.

-Mustang Rich