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1965 Survivor C Code "No idea what I'm doing" Build

16K views 124 replies 25 participants last post by  MrFaustie  
#1 ·
Hey all, guess I'll make my forum introduction as a build post! Probably won't be a very exciting or fast build post as I'm not just broke, but pretty sure I've already spent up to next Aprils paychecks.

I've worked on my cars most of my life, but I've never dived into engine internals or restoration before, so this build is going to be a BIG learning experience for me. I finally have my own garage instead of an apartment! I've been redecorating in Harbor Freight Chic.

I've been waiting for my son to become a teenager to start a father/son car project so I can teach him how to wrench, do the basics, and just in general work with his hands. We can't do too much on the little shoebox I drive daily so I scoured Craigslist and Facebook, eBay, and AutoTrader for months looking for an early 70s Charger or Dart, but started seeing Mustangs and remembered how much I've always wanted one. I then came across what I wanted to be my families "Heirloom Car".

A 1965 C Code, mostly original down to the nuts and bolts, survivor. No rebuilds on the engine or transmission, even comes with the dealer paperwork and original tiny 1965 title and inspection sticker. Typical story that she was a girls first car in high school, who drove the heck out of it for 20 years then put it into storage until now. I'm the second owner and the entire history of the car is known. All 146000 miles of it.

Seller runs a restoration shop and did the basics on it. New gas tank and carb, cap/rotor/wires/plugs, new steering hoses (though they installed the wrong ones, and badly), tires, rebuilt the drums, etc. Enough to get it running and mostly driving. The fresh non matching paint you see on the rear was due to them backing it into something at the shop and I had them replace the extension at the back of the fender.

Advertised as "Only surface rust except 2 spots on the driver side, no rot in the floorboard or trunk! Engine runs great, but valves are probably bad."

I bought it without ever seeing it in person, only pictures, a couple videos, and a phone call.

Day one she arrived and like the brilliant brain scientist/rocket surgeon I strive to be, my inspection amounted to "oooh she's pretty" and I promptly handed over a wad of money.

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Needless to say, once it was just her and I, she immediately started squealing and screeching and refused to run, which took me a whole day to track down to a loose carb bolt causing the worlds biggest vacuum leak. But, in the process of troubleshooting she did get all new belts at least. Then the front brakes fell apart 1 mile into our first journey, then my son discovered the floor was wet, REALLY wet and it turns out they had let it sit in the rain for a couple days before I got it.

First project time! Pull the whole interior and replace the carpet/jute/deadener. What do you think I found under the carpet in my new "rust free" mustang?

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Definitely not rust, on both sides. But, to his credit, when I called the seller he agreed to cover most of the cost to have the floorboards redone at a local to me shop (thats where the car is right now) since it was other than advertised. The rest of the floors are 100% solid, not even surface rust. I went through with a fine toothed comb after finding that surprise. The trunk....is another matter. It too has rust around the wheel wells, but I'll fix it.

So with nothing to do in the meantime, we changed the shocks on it to new KYBs (which ended up being way harder than I thought), changed my gassy fragrant oil (leaky pump), sent her off to a restoration shop literally 1/2 a mile from my house (lucky) and now I'm gathering a giant pile of parts thanks to Kentucky Mustangs 10% off sale. Thus far I have:

New ACC carpet with their backing and jute added to it along with kick panels and the package tray and backing for both.
Everything I need to rebuild the front suspension: U/L Control arms, a million rubber bushings, end links, coil springs and greaseable saddles, new gas lines.
An entire lower steering unit from Chocko (3 days from ordering, including a holiday!).
A plethora of brackets and wire organizers, looms, and every hose in the engine bay.
Enough Wix filters to purify the world.
1 rubber/cork forest worth of gaskets.
A heater rebuilt kit + a heater core with extended tubes
Window and door seals, windlace, etc
Currently negotiating for a brand new Weiand Warrior intake.

I will be keeping everything I take off as I slowly mod her, and for the major parts like the control arms I will be cleaning them up gently and likely selling them for those looking for concours stuff. They're savable.

I spent 3 days restoring the shifter, only new parts are the rubber seals and the plastic bushing but it made a HUGE difference. The transmission is MINT, but the shifter had wiggle like a 4 speed in neutral. Now it's perfect.

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So that's where we sit, just south of Houston waiting for her to come back with new floors so we can get started. She doesn't run too badly but she does make you cough with rich exhaust and kicks up some smoke when she starts. But she runs and sounds pretty darn good with her intact factory muffler.

Plans include mostly stock replacements for things, I want a "drive her as we fix her up" style of restoration/restomod. A head rebuild will be in a few weeks as I have a great local machine shop, then next year sometime I will pull the motor and see where we're at cylinder wise. Likely go as small of a bore as I can, and maybe stroke the engine a little bit. Undecided, but a rebuild is a 100% certainty. I need it to be 100% solid, a little higher compression (darn C code...) and I want quite a bit more pep in her step.
 
#100 ·
Well after another clunk or 3, I pulled the brakes apart again and went ahead and did new self adjusters, cables, and brackets. The adjusters on there were worn down to the nubs.

Braking is WAY better now. Steering seems to be too, so that's a positive! I think a brake was sticking sometimes.

Engine made 0 smoke today, pretty stoked about that and I think I have the valve cover leaks under control. Now to fix the collector leak that's come back for the third time.
 
#101 ·
Still fighting valve cover leaks, if anything they're slightly worse. Fel-Pro instructions for VS 13264 T said 60 inch pounds of torque, which I did. I also tried the normal 10lb spec. Leaked like crazy with both.

Going to try some flatter gaskets, I've heard good things about VS 13264 R.

Clunk is still happening intermittently and my tires are wearing really badly on the inside, so I think it's probably a balljoint binding. Time for a real alignment.

Got some new emblems from scott drake to replace the one that fell off the driver side, which of course one didn't fit right but I made it work. Also picked up a 70 Mach 1 tri bar grille emblem and mounted it on the drivers side of the grille. I think it looks sweet.
 
#103 ·
Replacement valve covers don't appear to be leaking at all, so that's a win!

Found out my exhaust was welded on wrong and the passenger side hoop is rubbing on the axle making a divot, so no driving till i can get that fixed.

Oil consumption/burning on the crate engine also continues to be a problem.

Man it's rough.
 
#104 ·
Oil consumption and smoke (often on deceleration or when starting with engine warm) continue, have talked with BluePrint a few times, but no resolution yet.

Exhaust alignment over the rear has been fixed, so no more clunking.

Camber kit has been welded on and we have a proper alignment!

Going to have to get a carb spacer, the carb gets searing hot after driving for awhile. Likely affecting power and the rough idle I get sometimes.

Randomly I'd swear my coolant level goes up. Coolant doesn't seem oily and there's no coolant in my oil though. I'm really suspecting an intake gasket leak.
 
#105 ·
Still waiting on Blueprint and the smoke continues, which is embarrassing.

Put on a 1" 4-hole phenolic spacer today and ended up with a high pitched whistle. Turns out it was the thick organic gasket that comes with the Summit carb. I really examined it and it was just not sealing/warped so I have no idea how long it's been leaking.

Used 2 regular gaskets and WOW did my power increase. Apparently I've had a vacuum leak this whole dang time and didn't know it because it was silent and the car ran pretty well.

She spins the tires going into second now if I'm on it, that's awesome. Also after driving around for 30 minutes my carb was barely warm while the intake was boiling hot. Mission successful.
 
#106 ·
I snagged one of the Scott Drake/Grant steering wheels locally for $40 to replace my stock one, pretty fidgety install and I'm not a fan of how it all goes together, but it's on!

Ran a quick errand with it and learned not to follow their instructions. They said not to use the internal spring that goes between the wheel and the column, but that let the little bushing that keeps the shaft centered come out.

Ended up driving home (only a mile) with a floppy steering wheel which caused me to snap off one of the springy horn contacts. Which also caused the horn to honk every time I turned right.

Took it all apart and got it back together correctly with the spring and all is well, but I need to get a new horn mechanism now. It was pretty busted up as it was (superglued together), at least I didn't break a good condition part.

That said, I love the wheel itself. Being an inch smaller lets me turn quicker as well as providing more legroom and being much thicker is way more comfortable in hand. I'm going to get some walnut sawdust to mix with wood glue to fill in the gap around the outside edge between the halves, that is an awful design mistake.

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#107 ·
I snagged one of the Scott Drake/Grant steering wheels locally for $40 to replace my stock one, pretty fidgety install and I'm not a fan of how it all goes together, but it's on!

Ran a quick errand with it and learned not to follow their instructions. They said not to use the internal spring that goes between the wheel and the column, but that let the little bushing that keeps the shaft centered come out.

Ended up driving home (only a mile) with a floppy steering wheel which caused me to snap off one of the springy horn contacts. Which also caused the horn to honk every time I turned right.

Took it all apart and got it back together correctly with the spring and all is well, but I need to get a new horn mechanism now. It was pretty busted up as it was (superglued together), at least I didn't break a good condition part.

That said, I love the wheel itself. Being an inch smaller lets me turn quicker as well as providing more legroom and being much thicker is way more comfortable in hand. I'm going to get some walnut sawdust to mix with wood glue to fill in the gap around the outside edge between the halves, that is an awful design mistake.

View attachment 967160
I’m not a steering wheel snob by any means. All my stuff is used cast off junk throughout my car. I did like my stock wheel but it was in rough shape. The only steering wheel I liked was the Moto Lita. Definitely not cheap and a lot more than I wanted to spend. After procrastinating at least a year I bit and bought one. When I opened the box from England all my apprehensions instantly faded away. Absolutely a piece of hand made art that I can’t even remember how much I spent or care. It’s worth every penny. I never think twice about the cost. It’s that good. Treat yourself to something you are going to have your hands on every second you drive your car.
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#108 ·
Not much going on, I added a Holley fuel regulator and dialed my pressure back from 7 to 5.5ish. A quick test run has the exhaust smelling a lot less rich(I know that's not a scientific test).

Oil smoke is getting worse and does it at idle/first start now. I'm still waiting on Blueprint, I'm at 2 months with no resolution (in addition to the month earlier this year dealing with intakes not sealing).
 
#109 ·
Not much going on, I added a Holley fuel regulator and dialed my pressure back from 7 to 5.5ish. A quick test run has the exhaust smelling a lot less rich(I know that's not a scientific test).

Oil smoke is getting worse and does it at idle/first start now. I'm still waiting on Blueprint, I'm at 2 months with no resolution (in addition to the month earlier this year dealing with intakes not sealing).
I know at one time Scott Ligget was the service rep of Blueprint. He’s a member on Bangshift. If he still is the rep and still on Bangshift, maybe you can rattle his cage.
 
#111 ·
The new vacuum modulator I put in back in Oct already went bad and was puking ATF into the line, so I had to swap it out. So hard to find good parts.


I also got a kind of snarky reply back to my email to BP stating they'd tried to call me 3 times, with dates, saying they'd also left messages.

I looked at my phone history and checked with my cell account, no calls from any of their listed numbers/area code and no voicemails at all.

Either they mis-dialed 3 times with a good number on file they've reached me at before, or they're doing what I've seen in a few threads about them before.
 
#112 ·
Budget has dried up for a while so I'm just tweaking as I find little issues.

Swapped out the spark looms I was using for some lower profile ones, they were too big and made working on the exhaust or doing plugs a nightmare. Advanced the timing a little more and it really woke the engine up.

Had some issues with the car running extremely rich that turned out to be the choke coming on due to voltage drop at the power source, routing in a relay fixed that.

Front drums have started squealing once warmed up. The shoes are fairly new but the drums haven't been messed with, probably need to be resurfaced or replaced soon. Might hold off in case I can do a front disc swap.

Trying to save up the funds for:

3.55 with a Truetrac. My pinion bearing is sad, the yoke moves around with barely any force.
T5 Swap. For the fun of banging gears, but also for the OD.
Front Discs. Kind of a no brainer, will hit up Chock for that when I'm ready.

I still have no real resolution for my radiator hose/fan clearance issues. The fan doesn't contact anymore since I lowered the rad and moved it to the pass side, but it only clears by a hair. I'd like to lower the engine back down and re-center it, but I'm not seeing how that would be possible.

Ron Morris motor mounts may be in my near future, I think moving the engine back a touch would solve the issue.
 
#113 ·
I looked over my bank statements and realized I was spending the GNP of a small country on ATF refills for the transmission since it leaks from every single orifice. It also stinks to high hell when drops hit the exhaust (see pic).

Ordered up new seals and orings for the shift selector shaft, servo housing(nightmare to find), and the extension housing as well as new band adjustment nuts.

Shifter shaft: ATP Control Shaft Seals FO-15
Extension Housing: ATP FG-104
Servo Cover: ATP FO-160

Should seal everything back up nicely. I think I need to work on the transmission line fittings too, but this will stop 95% of the leakage.

I figured while I have the valvebody out, might as well take one apart for the first time ever and install a shift kit so I ordered the TransGo 45-01.

Just want to leave a shout out for the FEL-PRO TOS 18632 transmission pan gasket I put on last year. That sucker WELDED the pan to the transmission. Took ages to get the pan off. Combination of my spending time making sure the pan edge was perfectly flat and a good gasket made a match in heaven.

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I also have a new engine fan coming in, the Derale 17317. Amazon had one in their returns warehouse for $25 bucks so figure why not. It's 1/4" smaller than my stock A/C fan so should provide some extra clearance with the radiator hose without being as small as the 16" fan I bought a few months back and never used.

Hopefully I'll have enough left over this payday to get some turn downs put on the end of my exhaust. They currently exit straight back (and a little too long) and that exhaust gets trapped behind the car on the highway and comes in through a couple holes in the trunk.
 
#118 ·
So.....the transmission has been working fine, I only pulled the valvebody to firm up the shifts with a shift kit.

The I see this.

View attachment 975895

From what I can tell, they don't go all the way through.

I think my plan is to just pretend I didn't see it and send it?
That's just casting flash. Run it!
 
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#115 ·
The new fan gives PLENTY of clearance with the radiator hose so I am calling that issue 100% solved. Once the car is back together we'll see how it does in the Texas heat, but with it being fully rigid I imagine it'll move more air.

I sent off my governor to Dynamic Racing Transmissions and for a fee they rebuilt it for me and shaved some weight off of the piston which should bring my WOT shifts up from 42-4400 to about 55-5600. Well within the healthy range for a roller 302.

But, I lost motivation and am in a rut. The car has been sitting with the valvebody pulled for 2 months. I'm starting to get the itch to finish it, but that last bit of "oomph" eludes me.
 
#117 ·
The new fan gives PLENTY of clearance with the radiator hose so I am calling that issue 100% solved. Once the car is back together we'll see how it does in the Texas heat, but with it being fully rigid I imagine it'll move more air.

I sent off my governor to Dynamic Racing Transmissions and for a fee they rebuilt it for me and shaved some weight off of the piston which should bring my WOT shifts up from 42-4400 to about 55-5600. Well within the healthy range for a roller 302.

But, I lost motivation and am in a rut. The car has been sitting with the valvebody pulled for 2 months. I'm starting to get the itch to finish it, but that last bit of "oomph" eludes me.
I've been there. Hopefully the nice weather coming will serve as some motivation.
 
#120 ·
Mr. Faustie, the motovation will return. Give it whatever time it needs. We all hit the rut. After all that work, and so many set backs, I can't even comprehend how much you have done, without hitting the rut a long time ago. I believe the build is a resounding success! Your son has learned so much of life and, perseverance. And now talented with his hands. Exactly as you had planned. You guys are an inspiration, in due time the build will continue, until then, don't worry, life's lessons continue.
 
#123 ·
I've begun working on it again :)

I'm in school for Aircraft Maintenance (getting out of tech) and doing that plus a full time job is draining me, but reignited my desire to wrench.

Started putting parts back on and am stuck on whether the shift selector on the side of the transmission pointed UP or DOWN.

Pretty sure it was up....