your getting lots of good discussion and opinions which is the beauty of the forum, however, to answer your question, you may want to take the time to come to the US and find a reliable shop with a good reputation who can collect all the parts and know what is a good reproduction vs a usable original part. It would seem you want to do the build in your shop with your builder and I respect that but "sourcing" everything then preparing to ship is going to be a huge responsibility. You will need someone you can trust. That's not something you can do over the phone on from a forum. I or we could recommend someone or several options but you should still come and meet the person and see their operation and make the "deal" that's right for you. I don't envy you, I live in the US and did the sourcing and homework for my project my self. Most of the work too. But I did pay a shop to do the final bodywork and paint then I took it home and put it together. I was fortunate after talking to many shops that I found one local that would let me visit and have my hands on the project in his shop. When the inevitable happens, the unexpected, I was able to deal directly with a guy I trusted. I have since become not just a customer but we are now friends. I can't say how many horror stories are out there of shops doing the customer wrong. It will be the biggest risk and maybe the biggest expense of the build so I can't say enough that you need to find a person/shop you can trust to collect the parts and ship it to you. Even if you or your builder sources all the parts you still need a place to collect them, store them and then properly pack them when it's time to ship. Most of us do not have to worry about this type of detail as we collect and store the parts at our home or shop. Good Luck my friend, it sounds like a dream project (the build). I can see why someone would build a clone. I would pay more to build a clone than buy an original myself as I drive mine and would be afraid to drive an original. I also enjoy "chasing" the parts and shopping for the right component to make the details come thru. It sounds like a cool project!

 

Built From Ground Up

Not sure where you are located, but in the USA, the build you are suggesting would not result in a Mustang or Shelby, it would be a Home-Built or "kit-car" VIN of some type. Many countries also have issues to work out when registering "kit-cars."

 

I'm thinking the big cost difference would be in the original vs. reproduction category. There are some pretty good reproduction parts on the market available at a reasonable cost. But original Mustang parts in good condition? Very rare and very expensive. Original Shelby parts? I would put those in the "nearly extinct" category. Sure, you can find some. But they're like art being auctioned by Southeby's.

I'm also thinking the cost would be about the same, or maybe even less expensive, to buy a real GT500. I just got an email from my Mustang club about an all original GT500 with extremely low miles offered at $100,000. It has the extremely rare, original, 427 side oiler. I thougt that price was outrageous at first. But now that I think about it, perhaps not considering how much it would cost to simply build such a car.

Anyway, as I recall, Laurel Mountain Mustang does have interior kits. Of course, all parts are reproductions.

 

You mentioned you have the shop, resource people and the money. Undoubtedly you know this: AFAIK Shelbeys weren't designed complete like a base Mustang. It was more like a super option. IMO from what little I know a "Shelby kit" would consist of a "bucket of parts" that were Shelby only, like the hood, steering wheel etc. Presumably there are
Shelby manuals available, whoever builds the car would identify which parts are different. The hood is obvious but seems likely the instructions that were available when the Shelby was built are probably not now. It would be IMO kinda like building a clone. Likely 22gt with his familiarity with Glazier Nolan.

Scheduling is going to be a major issue. Assuming you can resource the collection of the various groupings of parts. If you or one of your resources spends some time on forums like this or have knowledge from resto shops many of these carefully collected parts will require unknown rework /tweaking and/or tweaking of the mating parts. Some won't be useable and have to be re ordered.

Much of my career was in major new product design and introduction. This is like a one off new product for you. Ya I'm flapping my gums. My leverage in going to a supplier was the backing/spending of one of the largest product companies in the world. It wasn't like Ford sourcing 50,000/mo of a part.

Just saying, forgetting the money this will take lots of time. NPD for example, even Glazier Nolan is unlikely to drop everything and put together this one off kit. Maybe they will!

 

http://www.fordrestorationparts.com/restoration/PublishedBOM.pdf

How does the above BOM look?

 

this car will be shipped overseas so please dont recommend a donor car

 

To the OP, is this being shipped overseas?

 

I would start with a good donor car, even a coupe. I started with a donor car, someone else's project they gave up on. I initially thought I would rebuild with all new parts. Problem is the new parts are not always better, do not fit as well, etc. There is a huge expense in things you do not see and can salvage from the donor - fasteners, but also little things that add up fast, heater box, vent controls, ashtray... Look at mustangs unlimited catalog, you basically need everything in there listed for 67/68 fastback.. The donor will pay for itself -as to using the donor VIN - I am not going to start that argument. For me, everything you see and touch is new, things you don't I restored. I find the restoration of these parts very rewarding. They do not need to look perfect (since no one will ever see them), but the are clean and repainted and work as good as new.

 

Just finishing one of these

I am down to the final stage of building one these cars took 2 years to build. I started with a rust free original California car and purchased all Shelby items from Tony Branda and most all the parts from Mustang Plus and NPD. Even with a rust free car it took over a year in the paint shop to get the fiberglass perfect a lot of time and money. I original started the direction you are going with a 428 but decided to go a 351 stroked to 427 and 5 speed so it would be more drivable with 17 inch Shelby wheels. attached are few pictures cost wise I have over 50K in this car without labor just in the car, paint and all parts. I believe Tony Branda has a kit put together on his web site I would start with a original rust free car and his kit all you would need is a engine. If you need help with one of these I have numbers for guy (785-615-1239) building and selling them ready to go. This guy is in Kansas he has several so you can get correct date.

By the way this one will most likely be for sell soon also if interested

Bryan

 

I am down to the final stage of building one these cars took 2 years to build. I started with a rust free original California car and purchased all Shelby items from Tony Branda and most all the parts from Mustang Plus and NPD. Even with a rust free car it took over a year in the paint shop to get the fiberglass perfect a lot of time and money. I original started the direction you are going with a 428 but decided to go a 351 stroked to 427 and 5 speed so it would be more drivable with 17 inch Shelby wheels. attached are few pictures cost wise I have over 50K in this car without labor just in the car, paint and all parts. I believe Tony Branda has a kit put together on his web site I would start with a original rust free car and his kit all you would need is a engine. If you need help with one of these I have numbers for guy (785-615-1239) building and selling them ready to go. This guy is in Kansas he has several so you can get correct date.

By the way this one will most likely be for sell soon also if interested

Bryan

I am in the middle of a similar build and I can tell you that $50k only gets the pieces/parts, and I'm going the "restomod" route so I'm not using a correct $3500 FIV Secura steering wheel, big block, or original seat belts. I'm using the Tony Branda aftermarket kit and fiberglass from other sources. I sent out 4-5 bids to reputable shops, before I started this process myself and they all came back over $80k.
If you can find someone else's build and modify it to your liking you'll probably get more "bang for your buck" and buy some of the original/NOS parts you want. Keep an eye on Mecum or B/J. I have seen cars that I probably would have bought and modified if I knew then what I know now.

BTW...Bryan, nice build! Where did you source your fiberglass?

 

Once I do acquire the Dynacorn Shell, I would prefer to source parts as complete kits ex: A complete interior dashboard, a complete rear suspension etc. and then have them shipped.

I do run a large car workshop and dealership and also have a car restorer to help me so i have the infrastructure, resource and experience involved for the build.

The Sourcing is the only challenge right now (There are so many mustang aftermarket parts but i am looking only for specifically 1967 GT500 Fastback original/reproduced parts)

I have 2 options for these:

1) Source these from a Mustang Restorer who in turn owing to his experience should be able to source and make this pre assembled kits with relative ease.

Then you need to contact Glazier/Nolan. Restoring Mustangs for nearly 40 years, they have new and used parts, and can have you talk to technicians to tailor your orders to fit your needs.

Glazier/Nolan Mustang Barn | Mustang Parts and Restorations

 

Everyone has their own plan and motivations. If the OP has the resources and time, I say go for it. It would be cheaper to take over another's project or buy one done, but if he (she) starts from zero and goes by his plan, he'll have a car exactly as he wants and will know exactly what's in it. Unless it's spectacularly built, it's unlikely it will ever return the investment, but my car will most likely never return what I'll have into it, even with me doing a lot of the work. My kids can decide what it's worth after I'm gone...

John

 

you could probably save a lot of money and just start off with a 1967 factory mustang rather than the repo one.. 15k can get you a lot of car... probably rust free if you're willing to look.. maybe even numbers matching and then you can just do the mods Mr. Shelby did rather than start with a 15k repo body with nothing else..

And the repo bodies do not come out of the box ready to go.. they need minor bodywork aswell for fitment and gaps.. sometimes even modification.. A forum member by the name of Rusty has a build with one on here. heres the link.
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/646653-1967-dynacorn-fastback.html

He and other people go into depth on some of the issues such as registering and common issues with the body.

Also you're still going to have to bring the checkbook to the table on this build... another idea.. rather than trying to buy a repo or numbers matching car is to just try and find a unrestored Shelby for a reasonable price.. maybe one missing the engine or something.. but that'll probably be harder than it sounds..

Hope you update us whenever you start the build.. you seem determined. I assume you're building the car to keep for yourself? I would hope so lol.

 

Plenty of folks have done this already. Buy their finished car for 50-60 percent of their build cost

Peter

 

Even if he collects all the parts and gets the car built, whats the value of a car if it does not have an actual Vin. Once built, what do you do with it ?

 

Hmmm… Usually, when I bring up the virtues of originality, I get flamed by a whole chorus of "modified" fans, who claim that modified Mustangs sell for plenty.

To some extent I agree. A stone-stock 67 FB with VIN

☆7T02T123456☆

is probably not worth nearly as much as a well-built Shelby clone with state-issued VIN

☆NJ123456☆

I would stamp the state VIN exactly where the original was, and if it was a Shelby clone, stamp one of those plates, too.

So- If you have a 67 "Shelby" with a state VIN, what you do with it is drive it, and have a blast.

 

If you can find a 67 GT500 kit, go for it. Never seen one. The reality is no one will have "it all"... you either pay somone to find it for you, and pay more, or research and source it yourself.

As an example, I know of no Mustang parts houses that sell interior kits, tires, 3rd members and engine blocks... kits are bulk volume items, and as such generic one-size-fits-all for many parts. Not for the once-every-5-years sale. Hard to shortcut "correct".

NPD probably has the largest range of general Mustang parts available, which fit the bill for many of your needs, but even they just will not have it all. Let alone in a kit.

The Tony Branda site is the most comprehensive source for Shelby specific parts, at least that I have seen.

I am going through a similar effort on an EXP500 revisitation, an its taken me years to research and buy the parts I have, and it is still not going to be 100% (or even 90%) correct (as Conelec fuel injection and a one-off IRS are hard to find!).

If you have the coin, which you would seem to, and with your background you know the costs. I'd suggest considering buying a real one and restore it over time. A bigger up front investment as you're into 100-130k for a solid car. But for the shell and parts you are already well over 50k, if not more... how much it will cost you to build it only you can tell.

 

Hi Guys,

thanks a lot for your inputs.

Once I do acquire the Dynacorn Shell, I would prefer to source parts as complete kits ex: A complete interior dashboard, a complete rear suspension etc. and then have them shipped.

I do run a large car workshop and dealership and also have a car restorer to help me so i have the infrastructure, resource and experience involved for the build.

The Sourcing is the only challenge right now (There are so many mustang aftermarket parts but i am looking only for specifically 1967 GT500 Fastback original/reproduced parts)

I have 2 options for these:

1) Source these from a Mustang Restorer who in turn owing to his experience should be able to source and make this pre assembled kits with relative ease.

2) Some websites seem to sell these like Classic Mustang Ultra Restoration Kit
:cheers:

 

Intake and carbs like this, just picked it up last weekend... not a correct intake, but close. 63 Galaxy (I think) low riser w/BJ/BK carbs.

This setup alone will set you back $1.5-2k.

 

Additionally I would also require a Chassis, Engine, Exterior parts, Interior Parts, Suspension, Brakes, Wheels etc.

How much would a complete bucket of parts, required to build this vehicle cost approximately and are they readily available?

I can simplify your list. The Mustang has no chassis; it's part of the body.

The most expensive component of the 67 GT500 is the engine. Shelby used a 428 Police Interceptor engine, fitted with a dual-quad intake. This engine can be duplicated with relative ease, if your checkbook can handle it.

 

Hi,

I am planning to build a 1967 Ford Mustang Fastback GT500 from scratch and wish to source all the parts for it.

I wish to recreate the car using all original/reproduced parts to make it appear as close to an original 1967 GT500.

I would like to Purchase a 1967 Bodyshell to start with from DYNACORN.

Additionally I would also require a Chassis, Engine, Exterior parts, Interior Parts, Suspension, Brakes, Wheels etc.

Who knows of someone who would be able to assist me in sourcing all of these parts?

How much would a complete bucket of parts, required to build this vehicle cost approximately and are they readily available?

Thank You,

Raunaq23

Welcome to VMF. You are taking on a bigger project than you may realize.
There are reports availible that show the so called complete Dynacorn body needs a lot of fitting and bodywork. Then repro parts frequently need "tweaking" to fit, even NOS parts often don't fit matched with mostly repro parts (the Dynacorn body).

Hey it's a great project if you have the time, patience and money. I sense from your post that gathering all the parts is about it. That's a very small part of the total project!


Slim

 

You have an ambitious project ahead of you. If your idea of a project is writing checks for everything, someone will need to project manage the sourcing of parts and assembly. This will be an additional expense for you. There is no "bucket of parts" down at Walmart on this one.

If, on the other hand you are planning to do the heavy lifting yourself, you will find that chasing some parts will be much more time consuming and expensive than you ever imagined. At the end of the day, you need to have a plan, develop a realistic budget that includes cost overruns, and dive in. A project of this magnitude is not for the timid.

 

Go here and tally up all the 67 Shelby bits... not even everthing you will need. But will give you a realistic idea of what you are getting into.

1965-70 Shelby Parts | Tony Branda Shelby & Mustang Parts

 

No one person would be a source for all. Going to have to do your homework and source as available.

Cost for parts, 25k easy. Readily available a qualifed yes, not a lot of NOS or good used Shelby parts lying around and some are very pricey/hard to find depending on how accurate you want to be

A sampling of ballpark costs

Roll bar 1k
Seat belts - 2-3k
Engine 3-5k (parts)
Interior 5-7k (67 deluxe parts and fold down seat parts are hard to find OEM in good condition, console w/wring/gauges is about 1k alone, steering wheel is similar)
Trans - 1-2k
Wheels and tires 2k
Steering and suspension (front and rear) 2-3k
Fiberglass 2-3k front, 1-2k rear w/lights (repro, lots of fun making it fit, more $ in bodywork)
Suspension/brakes 1-2k
Wiring 1k
Stripes, badges, bolt kits (AMK) another 1-2k...
Grille and lighting 1k

And more.

IMHO be prepared to drop 50-60k, minimum, unless you can do ALL the work yourself.

It all adds up way fast if you really want to do it right to fill a shell... make a "realistic" budget, then expect to add 25-50%!

 

I would say ALOT more than that. just a dynacorn body is $15k I would figure closer to $100,000 or more if you cant to make an accurate clone with a big block and all of the shelby parts.

 

Your looking at around $30-$60K+to build that car depending on your building capabilites.
Good luck.
Lynn