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1968 Fastback; 5.2L Aluminator Coyote swap and Roadster Shop SPEC chassis

71K views 526 replies 40 participants last post by  Lionel Hutz  
#1 ·
@stephanorf suggested I start a build thread so here it goes. Details soon
 
#9 ·
Welcome, I’ll be following.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Made some additional powertrain decisions this week. I had been going back and forth between 2 pedals and 3. It seems most new coyote builds have 2 pedals and the 10 speed auto. I have a V-10 M5 with SMG as my daily and as much as I absolutely love that car I wanted driving my mustang to feel different so I ended up going with a 6 speed Magnum XL with the 2.97 first and .63 final drive. Car will have a 3.73 rear end


I used the M5 for reference and these are the calculations I came to (assuming 245/45R17 tires)
2.66 (.80 final drive) would be 1734 RPM at 70
2.97 (.63 final drive) will be 2185 RPM at 70
M5 has a .83 final drive and 3.62 rear diff and hits 2500 RPM at 70 in 7th gear
2.66 (.80 final drive) would be 1982 RPM at 80
2.97 (.63 final drive) will be 2498 RPM at 80
M5 has a .83 final drive and 3.62 rear diff and hits 3000 RPM at 80 in 7th gear

So the 2.97/.63 transmission will cost me some fuel economy and 400-500 RPM at the top end but this build isn't about fuel economy. The M5 has taught me that when you have an engine that revs to 8000, 500 RPM at cruising speed is nothing to worry about (though I won't have comparable noise isolation in this car).

I will be trying to maximize space in the tunnel so I can accommodate the 10R80 or DCT down the line without cutting up the floor again. DCT is my dream but the $25K+ asking price for those is insane

Also ordered C&R Racing radiator with integral engine oil and power steering coolers

Also ended up ordering hydroboost pedal assembly, and master cylinder from Revology
Revology 67400 - Revology Manual Transmission Pedal Assembly for Coyote Engine Swap with Hydroboost

Car should go to dustless blasting tomorrow or early next week. Price is about the same and I hope the dustless blasting will be easier on the roof. As it is I already suspect I'm going to have to replace the passenger rear quarter and everything in front of the firewall.
 
#16 ·
6 speed Magnum XL with the 2.97 first and .63 final drive. Car will have a 3.73 rear end
Sounds sweet! Wish I could have sprung for the Aluminator. Am building with same transmission but will be running 3.50 rear gears. Figure Coyote will be loafing at 80mph on road trips.
 
#13 ·
When you look at photos online you don't appreciate how high the intake is on these engines.
Image


As I believe I mentioned elsewhere I'm planning on getting 8 stack EFI from Jim Inglese. I had always wanted an 8-stack coyote system and Jim's only work with the gen 2 coyotes so for a while I didn't think it would work. It's funny, when I thought it couldn't work I was disappointed but relieved that I didn't have to spend the additional money. Now I'm excited but disappointed that I have to spend the additional money.

Going with natural finish on the intake and vertical rather than cross ram stacks. Coyote is an industrial/brutal looking engine anyway so I think a bunch of polished chrome would look out of place sitting on top. Also the aluminator coil covers look trashy to me so something will have to be done there
 
#14 ·
From someone who designed my own ITB system, I would highly reccomend cross-ram style ITBs if at all possible. It allows you to achieve a longer "runner" length for better low end torque. All else being equal setting the ITBs at an angle will net you a better street setup than vertical stacks. My setup is actually a hybrid...the ITBs themselves are vertical, but the stacks are cross-ram and curved. If I had to design it from scratch again I would do things a bit differently and go for more of a true cross-ram design:

Image


Anyway, hood clearance will quickly become an issue for vertical stacks for a street car...this is why cross-ram is the better choice. I made very sure when designing the system that I was only losing an inch or so off of the intake tract length....the more length you lose, the bigger the hit you take to low-end torque and streetability.
 
#15 ·
Very nice,
Great radiator choice. Check out the “Improved Racing” remote oil filter and oil cooler thermostat assembly. It facilitates AN12 plumbing and ensures hi volume flow and plumbing to/from the C&R 11554. Also, I personally highly recommend “ANhosefittings.com” for your plumbing needs (Same raceflux fittings/hose as sold on improved racing). Pricing was very competitive when purchasing over certain $$ amounts and their lengthy return policy/customer support was superb! - and very fast shipping. Plumbing direction and fitting options and angles get quite overwhelming when talking everything involved with the”swap” - remote oil filter, cooler, PS & cooler, PBrakes, fuel etc. I know I attempted to map everything out to perfection but once fittings were in hand, I in every case realized a different angle or configuration would work better…. I found it best to just order every possible option, finalize design/direction on the fly and return those that I did not use.

I noticed you linked the “XL” version of the T56. Was that to facilitate the Roaster Shop chassis or did you want the shifter further back?

Going to be awesome!
 
#31 ·
I have yet to drive my 65 enough to remotely get the transmission (T56) hot. I have not read of any major heat issues with them either. I guess you could say I don’t expect any temp issues in regards to the T56. If you are running hydraulic PS I would stick with the EOC/PSC option. As for my oil cooler/filter thermostat, I’m pretty sure I went with the 185. But admit I’ll need to look at my order. I know I can’t read the thermostat specs given the way the housing is mounted.
 
#32 ·
As for my oil cooler/filter thermostat, I’m pretty sure I went with the 185. But admit I’ll need to look at my order. I know I can’t read the thermostat specs given the way the housing is mounted.
Interesting, I haven’t researched what is best but I know I'm not supposed to rev my M5 above 3000 RPM until after the oil gets above ~210 degrees. A lot of e60 M5 owners developed engine problems from pushing too hard before the engine warmed up and I assumed the coyote operating temp would be similar. The S85 V-10 uses 10w-60 oil though so that may explain the higher operating temperature
 
#33 ·
I remember questioning whether to go 185 or 205 - I may have a 205 but it was 2019 when I ordered and my memory is failing me…😜 Even without an oil thermostat you would be at or near the radiator exit temp. In my mind I prefer the oil temp to be a bit less than more. I know with most of my run times the oil has not even circulated through the cooler. Even though the the engine is 180+ the oil wasn’t as the plumbing going to/from the radiator oil cooler was cold (no flow etc.)
10w-60,,, dang, can’t say I even would of guessed they had such an oil weight. I’m sure your Aluminator is the same and requires 5w-50. Even when 70-80 in the shop at idle after start it’s at 110+ psi. Will drop down to about 60 psi at idle hot. The computer kicks the fans on at about 180 and it appears the engine thermostat is 195 as that’s were my gauge sits when putting around last.
 
#40 ·
Build some shelving now to help with space and part management. Building multilayer shelving saves so much floor space unless you have way more space than you expect to need.
 
#39 ·
I didn’t know it at the time but one of the best things I did was separate and save every part, nut, bolt, screw, wire you name it off my 65 during disassembly. I felt I wouldn’t need 3/4s of it but I can’t tell you how many items I went back just for install clarification, ideas on fabrications, need of said part or connection, you get the idea.
 
#41 · (Edited)
Transmission ordered and went with Tremec 11010
First Gear Ratio: 2.66:1
Second Gear Ratio: 1.78:1
Third Gear Ratio: 1.30:1
Fourth Gear Ratio: 1.00:1
Fifth Gear Ratio: 0.80:1
Sixth Gear Ratio: 0.63:1


I don't want to order parts too early and find out I bought the wrong thing or would prefer something different down the road but I feel like I'm racing against inflation trying to get parts bought as prices keep rising.

I'd prefer to buy as the build progresses but the supply chain problems and inflation make that difficult to impossible. I'm bound to end up regretting some of these purchases and I'll find out I don't need some things long after the return windows have closed. 2022 sucks because I don't see any other way

Going to pull the trigger tomorrow on Old Air Products system for the AC. Weather permitting the car is scheduled to get dustless blasting on 5/23
 
#42 ·
Totally agree with your above approach. Today you are definitely juggling dollar amounts, availability/delivery times and ordering something you may not need etc..
You are bound to change directions once or twice on install/modification directions.
-My suggestion for your AC setup (and other components), buy everything for under the dash and all other “required” parts/assemblies - aka, those that won’t or can’t change the instal regardless of direction etc. But I would hold off on plumbing and bulkhead connections until you can look at your final firewall config, engine instal with final intake, headers, radiator, wiring harness/computer, air intake etc. Even though VA was “very” accommodating with my returns I still wasted $$ ordering everything as a kit upfront etc.

Cheers
 
#43 ·
I've heard mixed reviews of Borla but these guys seem like another good option for stacks


Dyno run


This is pure sex