Vintage Mustang Forums banner
1 - 20 of 34 Posts

doug ford

· Registered
Joined
·
2,690 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
Some of you may remember that I've been fighting a rough running condition with my 427 ever since the first day I drove it. I tried everything I could think of, adjusting carbs, timing, checking plugs, wires, cap, changing the original distributor for a pertronix dist, new carbs from pony carbs, probably more things I can't think of right now. It just continually got worse and worse.
I finally gave up trying and took it to a good friend of mine who owns a shop called Legends. He has done a lot of work for me in the past, even on this engine and transmission. He's a little younger than me but he's an old-school engine builder who can crank out some great running powerplants.
Anyhow, as soon as I told him what it was doing he knew exactly what it was. The thing had wiped the cam. Duh. You would've thought I would have checked that. Actually early on I had the valve covers off and all of the valvetrain seemed to be working as it should. Apparently that was in the early stages of the lobes wearing down. By the time he tore it down the first lobe for #1 cylinder was almost rounded off.
Anyway, long story short, I got it back this afternoon and drove the car like I knew it could be driven for the first time. This thing is a BEAST! WOOHOO what a ride!!!!!
 
Ohhh goodie, another vid coming!!!! Can't wait. :pirate: :pirate:
And I'm so glad you got the 427 got sorted out. A hot running 427 is a thing to be feared!
Go for it!! :burnout:
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
It was almost dark tonight when I posted this so it was too late to shoot a video and tomorrow they're calling for rain so I'm not sure how soon I'll be able to shoot one but you can bet I will as soon as I get a chance. There MIGHT be a chance you'll see a little tire smoke!
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Yep, solid lifters. The lifter were the old style hollow shell and one was worn completely through, it had a hole in the end of it! I was lucky.
There are a couple of ideas why it happened. First, this engine sat for many many years after being rebuilt and then having an issue with one of the heads which allowed coolant into the cylinder. I drained all fluids out of it and dried it out as best I could before storing it away with marvel mystery oil in the cylinders but the place I had it stored before building my garage was damp. One theory is flash or surface rust on the cam lobes from storage started the deterioration of the cam and lifters.
The second thought was using oil without zinc. Comp Cams believes this is the reason and I tend to think that's probably it too. They supplied a break-in oil with zinc with the new cam and said I need to use racing oil with zinc along with an extra additive when I change the oil.
 
what's your idle speed? i really want to run a big solid roller cam in mine but have had concerns about the wear and tear. i have read numerous times that the key to making a big solid rollers survive on the street is to keep the idle speed up (1200-1500). apparently the solids need the additional oil splashing that occurs with elevated engine RPM's.

that was information that i found concerning solid roller cams. i'm not sure if the same is true for the solid flat tappets.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
I don't know if that's true or not either. Right now my idle speed is around 10K I think but it seems a little fast to me, it used to idle lower.
I would check with the cam mfg'r and get thier recommendations.
 
FWIW I have a solid roller in my 347. Idles at 800 rpm. No wear problems I am aware of.

I have had two motors built in the last 3 years and put rollers in both of them. Did not want to take the chance on wiping a cam.

I assume that the motor was disassembled and cleaned out?
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Not completely disassembled but it was cleaned out. I sure hope nothing was left in there. I'll be changing oil again before too long.
 
BuckeyeDemon said:
what's your idle speed? i really want to run a big solid roller cam in mine but have had concerns about the wear and tear. i have read numerous times that the key to making a big solid rollers survive on the street is to keep the idle speed up (1200-1500). apparently the solids need the additional oil splashing that occurs with elevated engine RPM's.

that was information that i found concerning solid roller cams. i'm not sure if the same is true for the solid flat tappets.

I don't think those of us running solid roller lifters have to worry about this issue.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
buening said:
Did he just use a dial indicator on each valve and check for ones that are different?
Do you mean to diagnose the problem? He knew without looking that the issue was a wiped cam just by my description. He was right too!
 
1 - 20 of 34 Posts