The bracket for my 289 with and the bracket for my other 289 without look the same to me...you will need the 3 groove pulley...power steering doesn't have an idler...your power steering pump us what will be specific, specifically the reservoir housing, it has to have the slanted neck to angle behind the AC compressor. I saw a donor bracket and pump on Atlanta area Craigslist just a couple days ago. They're out there ! Good luck !

 

Choc should be able to help you out with all that. You really need PS? The last manual steer Mustang I drove was a 65 C code coupe. I couldn’t believe how easy it steered. Even low speed. There is a art to driving manual steering. Always have the car moving when parking. Even if it’s barely moving. It helps a lot. Next, whatcha your tire pressure. A properly inflated tires are much easier to steer!

 

The last manual steer Mustang I drove was a 65 C code coupe. I couldn’t believe how easy it steered. low

With a 19:1 box. 5+ turns lock to lock! Go from your daily driver to the manual 19:1 box and see how scary the first corner you take will be!

Dan did a nice job on my 16:1 box and PS stuff, but even with the quick arms I still want it quicker!

I believe the OP will also need a dual sheave water pump pulley on a 65 to go with the triple crank pulley.

 

I like the feel of quick ratio manual steering, so all of my factory correct power steering stuff is in a box. I admit I have thought about adding it to my car after buying and driving a second 66 that has it. It is so smooth and effortless, it does have appeal from 1) getting older 2) had a shoulder surgery 15 years ago and may need another and 3) it options-up my car. I still like the manual in the meantime.

 

Doing some reading.

Is this a bigger job than I realize?

I will need a 3 groove crank pulley and 2 groove WP pulley.

Currently the 2nd crank pulley groove is for the AC. When I add PS, the AC belt moves to the 3rd pulley. How is that possible when the AC pulley and idler do not move?

Am I going to have to round up a bunch of spacers and longer bolts and start shimming all the brackets trying to get the belts to line up?

Its confusing.

 

Ordered a 1965 Ford Products Engine Equipment Assembly Manual. Should be here on the 15th.

Once I figure out the engine side of it, I will buy the lower parts from Chocko.

 

Nah the geometry of the pulley works. It's not just like adding another groove out front. Don't worry. It'll all come together.

 

So indeed the answers are there.

Air cars had a slanted neck, big tube pump. The mounting bracket is a one piece steel. Pump pulley is AA.
The 67 version (C7AA aluminum cradle with flat steel support) will also bolt in perfectly on the 289 to bolt on the thin slanted neck pump.
3 groove crank
single groove water pump on 64-66-----67 was 2 groove water pump. Ford decided to eliminate the belt bounce to run belt over water pump pulley. This helped in overtightening the belt (pump bushing wear problem)

 

Did early Dearborn cars have an Eaton pump? If so, when did Thompson pumps replace the Eaton?

 

The switch from the Eaton to the Thompson PS pump happened when Ford went from the 5 bolt to the 6 bolt 289 block. My 64.5 D Code Coupe had the Eaton Pump but no AC.

If you don't already have them you'll need a couple of crush nuts to mount the ram bracket to the frame.

 

I'm still confused as to "The Date"

 

Im hoping this doesnt drag out all summer.

The bottom end is easy.

Its tracking down the engine side that is the challenge.

I would just forget about PS and try a roller idler, except no one has ever posted if its worth the difference of the $200 price tag.

 

Gee, I hope the help on VMF isn't pooping on your "party."

I've covered the merits of roller & solid bushing idler arms a few times on the forum.
You aren't going to get a ton of decreased steering effort going to an upgraded idler. You'll notice the
difference but it sure isn't like adding power steering. Most of the improvement on a 65/66 is in getting
rid of that asinine amount of rubber in that bushing..... the deflection of which adds a ton of play or
vagueness to the steering, particularly if you have shorter than stock sidewall tires.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995

 

No poop here.

Its difficult to find the correct parts when attempting to keep it original-ish.

 

I have an original 65/66 pump bracket for $75.Or you can get a reproduction bracket from NPD for $160

 

I have the correct PS pump bracket, 3 groove crank pulley, 2 groove WP pulley, AA PS pump pulley.

I bought the engine assembly manual only to discover the AC and PS is described in the chassis assembly manual, and that manual is on backorder until who knows when.

Now I need to decide on which year pump to use 65/66 or 67/68.

Then I need to decide on factory setup or Borgeson setup.

In the meantime, I keep eyeballing the 235hp crate engine from Summit for $3300. I figure my stock 289 puts out 125ish to the wheels right now.

 

Go factory...I have a Borgeson on one car, and although the steering is tight, the effort is greater than the stock setup. Here is my ‘66 engine with factory AC and PS. Use the large neck pump with angled filler. Still use the AC idler pulley. The PS belt goes over the second sheave if the water pump/fan pulley where the double alt. belt would go for AC only. The Bob Mannel book is very helpful for knowing how to route things, but you'll figure it out.

 

Thanks for the pic.

Everyone is telling me that this will fall into place.

Im skeptical.

Your AC clutch/pulley is different than mine. Your clutch is much deeper than mine. My AC belt is currently on the 2nd pulley and it moves to the third pulley.

I dont think everything is going to line up.

Im working on the 67 this weekend, so it will be next weekend before I get around to this project.

 

Hmmm...is your compressor the factory York unit with all the original brackets? If so, its belt should be on the outer of the three pulleys. If memory serves. Non PS cars still had the same crank and fan pulleys as with PS, but a double alternator belt was used on the middle groove, and a double sheave pulley was put on the alternator. With PS, the single alt pulley is there on the groove closest to the engine, then the PS belt, then the AC. I have a few shots under the hood too. If you use the brackets and parts that were engineered for this purpose, it willl line up right. The trouble comes when we mix and match...sadly, not all years equipment is interchangeable.

 

My car is a 65 with a 14 Aug 64 build date.

It has factory air with a single alt pulley, single wp pulley, double crank pulley single ac pulley, ac idler pulley.

I bought the correct ps pump bracket, double wp pulley, triple crank pulley, AA ps pulley, and will reuse single alt pulley. I will add the second idler pulley.

This is the best pic of the ac clutch I have. The car is in a rented storage locker.

As you can see our ac clutches differ. Im not seeing how this will go together and all the belts line up.

 

Surfing CL today I found this 65 with AC & PS. It seems I will need a new AC clutch.

This matches yours but does not match mine.

It seems I will also have to figure out how to space out the idler pulley as well.

This is way more work and expense than I anticipated.

 

I'll have to check the Mannel book when I get home to see what the differences were on the clutches. The one in the last pic there actually looks quite a bit thicker than mine, but I see what you mean on yours. Maybe there was a provision for thermactor equipment as well and the clutches were extended for an additional pulley.

 

Adding a stock system to a manual steering car seems like punching yourself in the dick for no reason with the EPAS and Borgeson available.

 

Okay, checked the Mannel book, your clutch is a 64-style, called a “Pitts” clutch. Looks like it was only used for 64 models. Yours would have a lot of transitional equipment as an Aug 64 car (I have one too...feel your pain. My car didn’t have AC or PS, but I added 65 PS from Chocko). It looks like those actually used a 4-sheave crank pulley with the double alternator belt and the Eaton pump. The picture shows your style AC clutch on the outer groove (no idler pulley, btw), two alt/fan belts, then the Eaton pump belt on the inner groove. The compressor brackets differ from the later 65/66 style, so that may be the problem. Yours possibly has the later brackets with the earlier compressor and clutch. That pulley should be in line with the outermost groove of the crank pulley.

 

Also...I think that thicker-yet clutch is actually a ‘67 style unit. It appears the clutch was 1/4” thicker due to a mounting change. I think that CL ad had an engine and/or parts swap. The blue engine kind of gives that away anyway...

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/292509980857

 

When I bought my car it had the Eaton PS pump scabbed from whatever. Not a factory power steering car and still had the 5+ turns slow manual box. Knowing with research that the Eaton setup was tuff to find the correct pulleys for I bought a regular 65 Ford pump setup from Dan along with a rebuilt quicker PS style steering box. I then had him rebuild my center link and cylinder.

I guess I understand the OP's concern as Dan didn't seem to want to get involved the pulley situation, with me anyway. The factory style system will serve you well but the pulleys can be a pain as no 2 internet pictures show the same set up! I have felt your pain!

I think I'm now set up for factory AC other than needing a pump housing with a more slanted filler neck. If I do add AC it will be with Sanden compressor that won't need the more slanted filler neck.

 

I added factory power steering to both my 64.5 D Code Coupe and my wife's 65 I6 200 Vert. I scavenged most of my power steering to include the steering box from a 66 V8 donor car I bought in a Junk yard for $600. A complete rust bucket. I bought the Eaton Pump and bracket for my car on eBay, actually two of them, I have a spare. I rebuilt both. I had another completer PS system to include the pump, bracket and all steering linkage out of a 70 Mustang in my garage. My wife's motor already had the correct pully on the crank for PS so I believe he engine wasn't original to the car. I used the PS pump from the 66 donor for my wife's Vert. The rest I got from Dan at Chockostang plus a power steering box. Dan steered me to a I6 pump bracket on eBay that I would need to complete my wife's car. If Dan doesn't have something like a bracket or a pulley it seems like he has the research tools or makes the effort to find one to support his customers and he's great to talk to about your project whether it be PS, disc brakes or just old car stuff. When I upgraded my front drums to discs I went back to him to get the OEM type kit he puts together.