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red6t5

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I am looking at buying a new rear gear set from TJ on ebay. From what I have read he is a reputable seller with a good product.

I am looking for some advice on whether or not I should upgrade to the true trac clutchless posi ($225 upgrade cost), or just go with the regular trac loc unit.

I called TJ and he made it sound like the regular trac loc would work great for me and my application which is mainly street, very occasional track, but I wanted to hear from someone who has driven both to get a real world opinion.

Am I going to feel the regular trac loc around corners when I am driving the car around town? This is one of my main concerns. I have never driven a car with any kind of limited slip. The car will be driven fairly hard with an occasional burnout from time to time.

Thanks for the advice.
 
I've a True Trac differential in my '67. I can't feel or hear when it locks. It is so smooth, if both tires were not spinning you would think it wasn't working. Works great in my opinion.
 
I'm running trac lok on my car since 09 and it's awesome. Nothing negative on corners, and you'll feel a big difference than open differential.
 
+1 on the True Trac. Extremely quiet and unobtrusive. It requires no maintenance or special fluids.

I have one in my 9". If I had to do it over again, I'd still pick the True Trac.

-S
 
+2. I have 2 True tracs and wont use anything else. A 3rd will be put in my 69 Grande build. A 4th will find its way into the 2014 Mustang in 5 years.
 
I've a True Trac differential in my '67. I can't feel or hear when it locks. It is so smooth, if both tires were not spinning you would think it wasn't working. Works great in my opinion.
That's not how it works, the True Trac™ doesn't lock in any way. You're thinking of the Detroit Locker™. The True Trac™ works using helical gears in opposition. Pretty slick concept, too. In theory, only 7 different parts in the whole assembly. Makes the Traction-Lok™ look pretty complex.
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I have a True Trac and I've had a Trac Loc's in the past. I've used them on the street and in drag racing. I would not use a Trac Loc now that there is the True Trac. The True Trac as no wear parts and works just a well, if not better than a Trac Loc.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Ok, so everyone who is running a true trac loves it, and the two guys who are running the regular trac loc like them as well with no locking around corners...

Also sounds like the true trac has fewer parts to wear out.

Any one else running the regular trac loc care to share your thoughts?

If I won't notice the normal trac loc during regular driving/cornering why do I need the true trac? I am willing to pay for the true trac, just want to make sure it's worth the extra cost.
 
I run a trac loc in my 8 inch. It has the 4 spider gears and the same spring to clutch set up as the 9 inch. It also has the same number of steels and frictions as the 9 inch. It is not a cast unit like the ones I've seen Currie advertise. It has a machined steel bell and a billet steel top hat. The top hat is important because the clutches press against it and if it is weak it will let the clutches slip when they shouldn't.

I decided to run the trac loc for a particular reason. My engine is north of 400 flywheel horsen pressures. I decided that if I had gone with an all hard parts lock up unit that it might not break but I might break something else like a u-joint, yoke or axle. I would rather spin the clutches than break something else. I'm running 27 x 10.5 ET Street drag radials and it has been working fine. I've only had it in for a few months but I expect it to last some years even with me taking the car out to the drags now and then.

Isn't the Eaton true trac just a Detroit locker? That is how I see them advertised. Maybe it is a little bit different design than the old traditional Detroit locker.
 
We have a Trac loc 9" 3.70 from TJ. It's also a 4 spider billet carrier, like macstang. Haven't noticed anything when cornering. Love it.

Bob
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
Thanks for all the feedback guys.

I have been reading some posts on Google searches and a couple of guys have mentioned that under a total loss of traction (i.e. Burnout) the true trac acts more like an open differential... Have any of you experienced this? I don't want to sound childish but I really want to be able smoke the tires without any problems.

When I called TJ about the two options he said that the true trac is used a lot by guys who are doing autocross style racing.
 
Thanks for all the feedback guys.

I have been reading some posts on Google searches and a couple of guys have mentioned that under a total loss of traction (i.e. Burnout) the true trac acts more like an open differential... Have any of you experienced this? I don't want to sound childish but I really want to be able smoke the tires without any problems.

When I called TJ about the two options he said that the true trac is used a lot by guys who are doing autocross style racing.
NO, Wrong.
The trutrac puts power to both wheels 100% of the time. When a wheel encounters a loss of traction or the terrain changes, the gear separation forces take effect and transfers more torque to the high-traction wheel.
So even in corners both wheels are pushing the car through the turn, just 1 of the wheels is getting more power like 70/30 or whatever.
Unlike a locker that does not. A locker is on or off, locked or open.
They say it "ACTS LIKE" an open diff. It is not actually performing exactly like an open dif. It is torque sensing.
So in a complete loss of traction of both tires, it acts like a locker, in that both wheels are getting power.
I can do burnouts until I run out of money for new tires.
Just look at my sig pic. That isn't a 1 leg burnout.

Watch the Utube link I posted above.
 
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