A lot of members here have had great experiences with modern driveline. Welcome to the forum.

 

I've been looking into that. Would you recommend finding a t5 and using their swap kit, or sourcing everything from them?

 

I'm in the collecting parts stage for my T5 swap. So far I've purchased from MDL, Rock Auto, fleebay and craigslist. It's more time consuming but I'll save about $2500 over getting it all from MDL.

 

Yeah, I've been looking at options (craigslist, FB market, and vendors). I just want a clean install and ideally no issues with the t5 after. I don't have an eye to know what T5 differences are out there on used units. I worry that I'd buy a bad trans if I went used.

 

I also want to do this for my car when I get it together, interested in this too.

 

You can definitely save a few grand by sourcing used parts yourself. For some, that’s a hassle. The simplicity of ordering the complete kit is worth the $. No wrong answer here.

 

If you get a used T-5, make sure you have the right one. Several different models are possible( 4cyl, v-6, v-8, Chevy, etc.

Don H

 

This is why I'm leaning at a new t5 with a kit from MD. I just don't want to spend money on something just to have to spend it again in THE RIGHT part later.

 

One major advantage to getting a full kit from one company (I got mine from Modern Driveline) is that if you have a problem, they can't point fingers at some part that you got elsewhere. Plus, I will tell you that they included every little thing, bolt, nut, etc. that was necessary, so you didn't find yourself running around looking for parts with the job half done. The convenience did cost a bit more, though, as noted.

 

Link to the kit you used?

 

I bought the complete kit from Modern Driveline. Bellhousing, engine plate, trans, clutch, trans mount and crossmember, pressure plate and hydraulic throw-out bearing. I already had a flywheel. Like CJM68GT390 said, it came with every nut and bolt, and from my experience they have good customer service. On one occasion I called and ended up speaking with the owner of the company.
Also, a shifter which placed it in the correct position to fit the factory opening.

 

Oh yeah, welcome to the forum, and please post some photos.

 

I bought a new T5Z from ford racing.
Adapter plate from California pony cars
my car was already a 4 speed so i sold the 4 speed to offset the cost.
I modified the stock cross member and modified the z bar and pedal support with ball bearings.
I also changed the OD ratio from.63 to .80

 

Modern Driveline or Hanlon in PA. Both are excellent companies and you'll get every little piece you need. Definitely go with a new T5.

Unfortunately depending on how inexperienced you are I shudder to think what it's going to cost or if it's really worth justifying. I think if you had a shop do the work, I couldn't begin to tell you how much but it wouldn't shock me if it was $4K+.

My suggestion is to take a step back, enjoy the car, take time doing some research and get a good understanding of what's fully involved

 

I bought a remain T5 and used this kit https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...BhB5EiwA05YKozfeqmPHv9aS2Fcj-H7TBihIFLH61pMcmaZluneBP2e26XybHpWR8BoCRH4QAvD_BwE

 

What were your thoughts for install with that kit?

 

My advice, since you are inexperienced, buy all of the components from one source. While buying "new" is expensive, it'll save you many headaches. Nothing against guys who are willing to scour junk yards for parts to save money, but, for an admitted inexperienced person, would be a killer. When a part doesn't fit, who do you call....the junk yard dog?

 

Modern Driveline w/ a hydraulic clutch.

Best mod I ever did on my car! (Was also a C4 auto before)

 

If you piecing it out, here's a link that will ID what version T5 you're looking at is by its tag.

Identification Key to Borg-Warner T5 transmission ID Tags

How to identify a Borg-Warner T5 transmission ID Tags

www.britishv8.org

 

More car pics. I just replaced the stock wheels for 17s.

 

If you want to save some money sourcing parts yourself will help but is pretty time consuming. For a kit go with mdl. They are expensive but you will get a kit with every single thing you will need down to the nuts and bolts. You will also get detailed instructions and top notch tech support over the phone. Their crossmember is one of the best out there too.

 

I started with a used T-5. There was a reason someone pulled it out of a car. It needed a full build. I then bought a new T-5z and love it. The 2.95 first gear is MUCH better than the typical 3.35 first gears found in must Mustang T5s.

I like to tinker, so I made my own clutch cable setup and transmission cross member.

 

Well I got the quote from MD. $4500. I'm not ready to pull the trigger yet. I'm going to keep looking at options. It's a big price tag.

 

It's a pretty simple operation if you have any mechanical ability

 

I can follow instructions and I have a torque wrench. It's also my 3rd classic I've owned. But I'm not a good transmission guy.

 

Hi - Welcome to the forum, new to the forum also, MDL does supply a great product, but as stated they are not cheap. If you enjoy the chase, are not in a hurry, take your time go to swap meets and source what you need. Helping a car friend install a T5 in his 68 GTCS. If you would like more info email me at kcorwin@pacbell.net I can send you alot of literature in pdf for you to view. Have fun!

 

I pieced mine together for about $800 with a used T5 but even with a new T5Z you can do it for about $2600, if you're willing to put in a little effort. Tons of posts on doing it, pick the one you like best. If I had to do it again today I would buy a new T5Z and piece the rest together still vs a kit.

 

I installed a T5z and purchased it from Modern Driveline. They have great support for any questions, adequate installation info, and there are videos on how to do it. Andy Kruse, who is a member here ( @aakrusen ) has a two part video on his install, it was quite helpful. I probably could of pieced mine together, but MDL made it easy. Video ->

 

Depending on engine mounts you use the cross member for the Modern Driveline T5 may need a shim upwards of 3/8 of an inch to take the down angle out of the engine. This will greatly help you on your drive line and piniin angles.

Also, the way the clutch pedal is attached to the pivot bolt of the brale pedal could use some fine tuning. As you tighten the nut it will compress the clufch pedal against the bracket/carrier. Tighten it too much and you will see enough bind placed on it that the brake pedal will move as you push the clutch.

This is even with me having done a roller bearing swap for smoother brake/pedal movement.

5k miles in a year and I recently checked the clutch pedal to see that it is grooved against a maiting surface where it was rubbing against the brake bracket/hanger assembly.

I have my own CNC mill and will likely be revisiting this area of the hanger some day to make a new bushing to go into the bracket while incorporating a thrust bearing/washer setup to mqke the pedal smoother.


Drilling the firewall for their hydraulic master can be a bit of a trick. I 3D printed a drill template that was to the specs of the bracket. Taped off my firewall to mark the spot where the master cylinder needed to be. I then super glued the drill template to the alignment marks for perfectly located and drilled holes. Beats the ever loving crap out of using a piece of cardboard taped in place to half assed locate the holes.


I do not have my clutch perfectly aligned for the push rod setup. Already replaced one of the willwood master cylinders due to angles not being quite perfect.

Hope is to some day figure out a way for a set of tilton pedals in my car and if I can manage that I will wind up with 3 master cylinders in the car with resevoirs in the engine bay. Will use the old master cylinder hole as a spot for a bulkhead pass through.