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Build or buy a 347

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6.1K views 15 replies 13 participants last post by  66FSTBCK  
#1 ·
For starters I don't have large disposable income for this motor. I always wanted to build my own but I don't want to spend more for the same thing I could have gotten somewhere else. If I were to build I'd go kit routes to ease some of the headaches. Goal is 400hp for a street rod ride.

At first I was planning on this
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-150110/overview/make/ford

Scat *Special* 347 Street Stroker Kit [1-94165] - $799.00 : AD Performance, Your Source for Longblock Performance Parts

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2091

I'm not hunting for a used block. I went down that road and it turned out to be a looser. The 2091 kit is flat tappet. Kind of thought that's a waste but seems I've heard it's good for what it is. But those three things are going to run me approx $3,750

And then I came across this
Ford 347 Base BP3474CT | BluePrint Engines

There's plenty to reviews to read about BPE. With the good comes some bad. I'm not crazy about the block being .40 over which is what Summit and Jeggs state about them. But it comes with a warranty. One that could be challenging to make a claim on but there's something there. What's your opinion? Can I really do much better on my own with $4K?
 
#2 · (Edited)
I just went through this whole dilemma with my engine. I was looking at the same block from Summit too. I think Summit's block is only .030 over with a bore size 4.030 (standard is 4.00).

I'm having a local shop (L&R Engines) build my 347 motor. A fully machined, assembled shortblock would be $1k + internals (They only charged $375 to assemble the shortblock!). I bought my own internals from eBay for $1600. New AFR heads $1700. Expensive custom grind cam $400. Expensive intake $300. Expensive roller rockers $300. Some smaller items added for a couple hundred dollars. Total cost is about $5500.

You definitely don't need the upgrades I did. So, I'm sure you can rebuild it yourself or get someone else to rebuild a better motor for the same cost as a crate motor. Or, rebuild a similar motor for less than your crate engines.

If you buy a crate, and somethings wrong with it, the logistics will make it difficult for warranty issues. A local shop is nearby so you have that leverage. If you build it yourself, you have the control at your fingertips.

I actually decided to take some extra time, earn a few more bucks and have someone else build it for me. Good luck!
 
#3 ·
For me it was personal satisfaction of putting together my own engine after the machine work was done. Same as building the car vrs buying one already done. All depends on what you want to do, your time, current skill level, work space, and money issues...........but, just don't be afraid of tackling it if you think its too hard to accomplish. I think you already answered your question in the second sentence!
 
#4 ·
#11 ·
I've heard good things and I believe Ford dealers honor the warranty, but +60hp for $300 more

Sounds like you're spending more than you have to. You might want to consider just getting a 351 Windsor and doing a refresh. You could add HP as time went on, but start with cam; manifolds and head work. Real easy getting the numbers you're talking.
russ
I have this feeling that pulling the existing 302 and putting a 351 in will be a little challenging. Maybe I'm wrong. It'll slide right in in place of the 302? No other mods necessary?

Build one! Support your local machinist and choose the parts that go in the build.
Money, money, money. I like the idea but I have a limit on the number of dollars I can give someone just because they work around the corner. It's only a hunch but I think it'll be a significant difference. I'll make some calls though

I haven't read the other responses but this is what I just went through in the winter/spring. I always wanted to build a motor but didn't have boatloads of $$. I bought a used block from my local machinist and he checked it over and done all the machine work for it. I bought a 347 kit from Skip White (cast Scat crank, Probe pistons, rings, etc) came in just under $800. I took my time and measured and re-measured and measured again during the assembly. I have just a hair under $2K in the short block. I have put over 600 miles on it and so far, no rattles,shakes or leaks of any kind and it has not used a drop of oil. Very happy with it. I'd recommend doing it yourself. Another route would be get ahold of Woody at Ford Strokers and buy his DIY kit...........$1995 plus shipping. He comes highly recommended.
That's right on with what I was originally talking about. I could build a short block 347 for about $1800. Then I'm looking at heads, cam, balancing.....
 
#5 ·
I MIGHT buy my next motor, but I got my 289 done by a mechanic who does a lot of drag cars in his 5 car bay. Great guy, but who knows. I have time to decide to go crate or have him build my next motor. If you do decide to buy a 347, keep researching for a great shop to buy from just so you'll get support from th shop who'll back their work up.
 
#10 ·
For starters I don't have large disposable income for this motor. I always wanted to build my own but I don't want to spend more for the same thing I could have gotten somewhere else. If I were to build I'd go kit routes to ease some of the headaches. Goal is 400hp for a street rod ride.
I haven't read the other responses but this is what I just went through in the winter/spring. I always wanted to build a motor but didn't have boatloads of $$. I bought a used block from my local machinist and he checked it over and done all the machine work for it. I bought a 347 kit from Skip White (cast Scat crank, Probe pistons, rings, etc) came in just under $800. I took my time and measured and re-measured and measured again during the assembly. I have just a hair under $2K in the short block. I have put over 600 miles on it and so far, no rattles,shakes or leaks of any kind and it has not used a drop of oil. Very happy with it. I'd recommend doing it yourself. Another route would be get ahold of Woody at Ford Strokers and buy his DIY kit...........$1995 plus shipping. He comes highly recommended.
 
#12 ·
Say I went with a bottom end kit from ford strokers. If I through another $2k into it for heads and everything else included in the BPE deal, do you think I can achieve numbers greater than 400hp 400lb?
I work hard for my money so like everything else, I want to get the most for my money
 
#13 ·
Yup, but with those heads, you'll want a nice cam, maybe roller lifters. Don't forget your ARP bolts, nice oil pump, 650 carb, HEI or MSD distributor, timing chain. Is everything balanced? Are you degreeing the cam? You'll want these things, so be prepared. They add up.
 
#14 ·
You can get anybody to build the numbers your looking for, but you get what you pay for on the durability end with quality parts. Compression is whats going to get a 347 its torque, keep that in mind for the fuel you have to use with it. Have a local machine shop build it, they'll put the time into making it right. Good Luck!
 
#15 ·
I actually have never built a motor. I have helped people. I have had this and that off of them. I have disassembled them. I have taken them out with a cherry picker and even pulled a Poncho400 with a turbo 350 attached out with a wrecker's boom. I have had them built for me, my friends have done most of the above.

Next time I need one for the hotrod I am going to save up for a NEW crate engine if money permits or grab a motor from a wrecked late model whatever.

My theory is all the motors I have seen built just plum use oil. Not really a big deal but it works on my mind when my 206,000 mile Lincoln has just now developed a drip, my 1997 Oldsmobeater Aurora almost never requires any and my old touch screen CRT having 89 Toronado ran to 280,000 barely using any.

Of course my wife's van, the vehicle I am least likely to check the oil in, uses a quart every 3,000 miles like clock work. So who knows. I think I'll wait for one of my friends to wreck something neat to get my next motor.