They are marketed by Dynacorn. I believe there is only one real source. The shop near here has used quite a few of these with excellent results.

 

Are they all from Dynacorn?

 

I installed the 67/68 version years ago (8 yrs or so I think it was) and the fit was perfect with no problems. The key is to make sure that you document all measurements beforehand of the distances across the engine bay at various locations so you keep the factory distances and to attach (screw in) the lower engine bay cross brace, clamp the radiator panel, fenders (fender extensions for the headlights) and strut rod attachment brace into place, attach the hood hinges and install the hood, etc so you have the appropriate gaps before you do any welding. Maybe this is overkill but I went so far as to attach the upper and lower control arms and the wheel spindle into place so I could intall the front sway bar. That way I knew that if the front sway bar and lower engine bay cross brace were installed then I had the lower distance correct and by attaching the hood hinges and hood (fore and aft) then those distance were correct (assuming that the cowl is still installed) then the fenders should fit perfectly. You shouldn't have any problems as long as you fit everything together in advance before welding. This is a job that requires a lot of pre-planning and temporary fitment of parts before any permanent attachment is contemplated. Do Not be in a rush for this type of work.

 

One of the reviews on the CJ was interesting. They had to drill the spot welds on the shock tower and move it.

 

I saw that review, but have to question it. I could see the towers maybe being 1/2" off, but 2 inches? Both the front and rear apron would also have to be significantly off...

Rusty

 

I used the full assembly as well. It was well built and lined up correctly all the way around per the shop manual dimensions. As mentioned, it is a very complex task to line it up before welding it in. Take your time with it, and it's doable. I was happy with the part overall. The only modification I had to make was to add metal to the flanges of the rear of the frame rail where it meets the toe-board...wasn't quite enough there to line up with the holes from the drilled out spot welds. Not a deal breaker at all.

 

I got the one piece inner aprons and the left one was good but the right side was an issue with not lining up with the firewall and the hood hinge was a 3/8 low so after checking and re checking measurements I found out that the apron was spot welded on an angle down in the back so after drilling out all the spot welds and realigning it it all worked great everything lined up..

 

I just sold my NOS one-

 

I haven't bought these yet, but was getting ready to and noticed all the ones at NPD and CJs had the one piece fender aprons. Do they not make these with the two piece aprons like the originals?

Rusty

 

I can't speak for CJ's, but you didn't dig deep enough on our site...

INNER FENDER, FRONT, RH - #16054-1A - National Parts Depot

INNER FENDER, FRONT, LH - 16055-1A - National Parts Depot

Buy Part#16055-1A - INNER FENDER, FRONT, LH

www.npdlink.com

FENDER APRON, INNER REAR, RH - #127-1ARH - National Parts Depot

Inner Rear Fender Apron, LH - #127-1ALH - National Parts Depot

Buy part #127-1ALH Inner Rear Fender Apron, LH for your classic 1965-1966 Mustang from National Parts Depot. Free shipping on orders over $300, fast delivery & everyday low pricing! Order now!

www.npdlink.com

Rick
NPD

 

Two piece aprons?

 

Aren't the original inner fender aprons 2 separate stampings, welded together near the top of the shock tower?

Rusty

 

I have been buying sheet metal from CJ PP of late. From my experience, the CJ Classics sheet metal has all been Dynacorn. This was true for the quarter skins and door skins all purchased in the last year.
The comment regarding the inner fender aprons is correct, they are individual pieces. I like the approach you are looking at to replace the frame rails, shock towers, and inner fender aprons as an assembly. Less to worry about in getting individual pieces aligned and welded.
While you are in there, be sure to check the health of your lower cowl panel. If rust has taken hold, this would be a good time to fix that area too.

 

Check my build thread, It's all got to go...

 

I bought the cheapest ones knowing any repop metal needs some massaging to get right. They worked exceptionally well and saved a ton of time. Check my link below for lots of pics on this.