Going to order this stuff tonight and hope for the best!

 

On the flywheel I'd suggest something like the PRW which I used. For one thing you're going to be over $100 to have it rebalanced. That is if you find a shop that can.

First, the reason why I went with the PRW. It's pretty much universal. It uses a bolt on weight so you're not limited to 28 oz. It's also SFI rated and, and it's drilled for every possible clutch kit. That is another reason I bought it. I had a free 5.0 king Cobra clutch kit.

Now on my PRW. I had a slight vibration that more bothered me then a problem. How hard could it be to find a shop to check the unbalance is a big problem! Most shops can't. I had more then one shop tell me the only way they could balance it was to bring the whole rotating assembly. Crank, pistons and rods. Not going to happen. The other was was if the shop had another flywheel to check against. This was a better option but they were going to use a flywheel they would dig up some place. The problem with this is when the engine is built at the factory it is final balanced as a whole assembly with the flywheel bolted on. So basically the flywheel is balanced to a specific assembly, not yours. Luckily I had the flexplate that came with my motor and my flywheel Balanced exactly to my motor I want to stress there was not a issue with my PRW flywheel. It's balance was very good according to the shop. Just that my motor may have been off a little bit. The shop removed 10 grams from the weight. The shop said 10 grams shouldn't be enough to cause a vibration on a 90° V8. Anyway it solved the issue.

I think the bill was $135 just to fine tune the flywheel.

 

I would definitely consider a flywheel in that price point... but i'm just not sure it exists for my application. I would rather spend ~$100 on machining the existing flywheel, rather than spending $300+ for a "one size fits all" flywheel. Could you provide a link for a PRW Flywheel? I found this one for $285: https://store.prw-usa.com/1628981-small-block-ford-260-351w-1964-95-24-lbs-28oz-balance-157-teeth/

I'd skip the cable set up and use an upgraded Zbar with rod ends and rollers

Any particular reason why? I like the simplicity of the cable, I just really don't like the price. However, it's quite a daunting task to track down every single little spring, bushing, clip, rod, etc to install a Z-bar setup. My car literally has nothing.:| Won't i also have to drill for a clutch pivot somewhere in the block or bellhousing?

 

I'd skip the cable set up and use an upgraded Zbar with rod ends and rollers

 

you may have mentioned this but you’re gonna need to find a clutch pedal to fit that bracket assembly because the automatic and three speed four-speed panel bracket assembly are identical from Ford back in the day

Also if you’re not running headers the cable clutch works flawlessly I did a swap on my 69 Mach back in the day from an FMX to a T5..

Also a fox body starter will bolt right up with that t5 bell housing and you’re 157 tooth fly wheel so you’ll need to get one of those...

Also I’m not sure if you mentioned this but you’ll need the T5 crossmember this design for our vintage mustangs. There are other styles out there but I like the one that modern driveline carries

I’m trying to remember if I needed a speedo cable too... I know you’ll probably need to change the gear in it..

The T5 will work well with your 351C even if it’s mildly built and even considering the torque-e-ness of the Cleveland however I wouldn’t do many clutch dumps because you’ll beed the input shaft especially if you have fat tires in the rear...

Make sure that your a T5 has a steel bearing retainer for the input shaft and make sure that the roller pilot bearing that you’re going to use has the correct “ID” (inner diameter) for your transmissions input shaft... did you mention that you also have a T5 throwout bearing?

If you’re going to use headers then I would go with the hydraulic clutch fork set up with the slave cylinder or use a hydraulic throwout bearing both of those kits are available through modern driveline but now plan on your dollar signs going up quite a bit ..

Good luck you’ll love the overdrive. I’m assuming first gear is 3.35 as opposed to t5z which I believe is 2.84?? I could be wrong with that number..

If you have the 3.35 first I’ll be honest with you anything above 3.50 Rear axle gear ratio pretty much makes first gear useless. My 69 had a 3.73. My 70 has a T5 in it 3.35 1st and this time I put a 3.50 in this set up and it’s much more enjoyable ..

 

Sorry about any typos in my last post I was doing speech to text on my iPhone and didn’t proofread. What I was saying in the beginning is the pedal bracket assembly is the same for a manual and automatic on your Mustang you’ll just need to get the clutch pedal—-

and with the cable clutch it’s a slight modification, you need to cut off the arm that’s welded onto the pedal if my memory serves me right .. I believe that’s where the clutch pedal return spring mountain from the factory

 

Thank you for the input! In my parts list I have a new pedal, the clutch cable kit, crossmember, speedo gear/clip etc. I currently have the throwout bearing and i'm ordering a pilot bearing, but it's not a roller. I plan on headers eventually, But I don't want to go hydraulic because of the price/complexity. I think i'll find some headers that will work later on. First gear on this WC T5 is 3.35, and I have a 3.25 rear end. I'm kicking myself for not grabbing the foxbody starter because I thought my existing one would work. I guess we'll see!

 

doesn't get any simpler than a Zbar , plus they don't melt ,stretch, ect. if you have a vintage block? it's probably already drilled/tapped

 

Hmm I guess you're right. I was just thinking about future maintenance- with a power booster, headers, manual linkages, etc. plus the steering box, brake lines, rag joint, etc. I figured i'd just be contributing to the maintenance nightmare that might be to try and fit my hands in there later on!

I'm not sure if my block is drilled for it. It's a 351W from a barret jackson car somewhere. I think the engine is stamped 1971 or 1973..

 

Highly unlikely that your cable will melt if you’re running exhaust manifolds that’s why I said if you’re eventually putting headers on then yeah the cable set up will most likely not work and you’ll need to go with the hydraulic set up. In the meantime if you’re using the exhaust manifolds I would still buy one of those thermal heat sheaths just to be on the safe side from Summit.

they come in different diameters and just run your cable clutch through that.

And again i’m coming from experience having a T5 in a 69 Mach one with the cable clutch set up

 

I have been running a clutch cable with headers for years and have yet to melt the cable. I did shorten the stock cable and use a swagged end that I sourced from McMaster-Carr. The cable routes through the headers right where a Z bar would go. An L-bracket that I fabricated attached to the steering box and zip tie holds the cable securely, and neatly, in position.

 

As far as the cable clutch goes you might want to seek out the upgrade cable that was for Fox& SN95 cars over stock, don't know how its better though but they had a few failures with the OE type. Might have been a stretching problem.

New England Perf Mustang https://www.neperformancemustang.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=65 had great prices on T5 parts. I cut $100+ using them for several parts, mainly the xmember.

Speedo cable? If yours is on the drivers side now it should work with the T5.

A good clutch kit should come with the pilot bearing and alignment tool.

maybe a better shifter(not just the handle) some cars the T5 lines up great some not. if you have a not car its hell to change the sifter later. No $100 cheapies on these, those will shed aluminium and pollute the trans with shavings.

 

All of the T5 swap sites i've looked at says a foxbody cable won't work, that's why i've chosen the modern driveline cable kit.

I like the crossmember price on the site you provided but i've read that the tubular style is bad for exhaust clearance, and has weak points.

My speedo cable should be good, I'll look into changing the shifter! Thank you.

 

Ordered all of the parts, ended up buying that flywheel from speedway and the MDL clutch cable kit. Overall, it was an expensive undertaking but still a LOT cheaper than a “typical” T5 swap without fabricating my own crossmember and such.

Sidenote, if anyone is still seeing this thread so i don’t start a new one: is this a damaged bushing where the clutch pedal is supposed to hang? Could anyone tell me if this area looks “normal”? (Depicted is an underdash photo right above the brake light switch.

 

You need this and the pedal hanger must come out of the car for the installation.

https://www.mustangsteve.com/product/bbk/

 

I ended up purchasing this:

https://www.cjponyparts.com/clutch-and-brake-pedal-support-bushing-kit-1965-1970/p/HW3429/

Hoping this is all I need to at least hang the pedal. The bushing (or what looks like it) looks like it was bashed in or something...