So you haven't seen how much thread is in the nut/arm? I would take it out all the way and measure it/eyeball it to have piece of mind. I am sure you can trust what the manufacturer said, but its always better to know exactly what you are dealing with by unscrewing that joint all the way and measuring it. You say you are afraid of losing count, but a paint marker on it and a few minutes its a big piece of mind.

 

Unless Shaun tells you how long the threads are you have no way to be sure BUT to count the threads now and pull those suckers out and see for yourself. That's exactly what I did with the heims on his strut rods.

 

And no I didn’t feel like taking them all the way out because I was afraid of losing count and not getting it right reinstalling them.

Back off the jam nut one flat and put a piece of masking tape around the threads. When you put it back, simply put it back to the same place and tighten the jam nut.

 

@Woodchuck @Caper50 and @OneTireFire thank you!! I wasn’t sure if @Shaun @ Street or Track would be around this weekend and pulled this apart finally after getting down here to Texas last night. Hence my late post 😂

He said the threads on the joints are 1 3/4” long so I should have enough bite.

Thanks again!!

Chris

 

I think to be on the safe side, I’m going to go back in a 1/4”(4 turns) and make up the difference with shims. With his previous arms, all I needed was one 1/16” shim front and rear to get it where I wanted it.

Chris

 

When I built parts, my instructions said not to exceed 5/8" of exposed 3/4" heim joint threads (not including threads under the jam nut). The threads on 3/4" heims are generally about 1-11/16" or about 1/16" less than 1-3/4" because there is a bevel on the end.

 

I was told the rule of thumb is that the thread engagement should at minimum be equal to the diameter of the bolt. So 3/4" bolt needs 3/4" engagement...

 

Thank you. They are 3/4”. The rear heim has that but the front only 1/2” so they are getting turned in a 1/4”.

Chris

PS on an old VM post @Woodchuck I feel like I still won’t exceed too many shims.

65-66 Alignment shims, what's the maximum?

I was curious if anyone knows the maximum number of shims that would be considered 'safe' when fine tuning the alignment on a 65/66 Mustang. I'm currently set with 4 shims on the front bolt of both upper control arms and none on the rear bolts. My specs so far are: LF: Caster= +2* Camber= -1/4*...

www.vintage-mustang.com

 

And of course you know that by having different lengths you're not only effecting the alignment, but the camber curve as well
(via the change in upper arm overall length) ?
Hopefully the other side is setup with the same upper lengths....
(Unless, of course you're driving in NASCAR, where they do such things as running different lengths in right vs left sides)

I'm not offering to source them, but there are such things as extended shank length rod ends where the threaded portions are
longer.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995

 

Thank you Larry!!

Yes, I’m doing the exact same to both sides.

Shaun shortened the arms 1/2” from the time I first bought his upper non coilover front end from him to help others.

When I decided to upgrade to his full coilover system I was unaware of those changes and the car had so much negative camber. I don’t want a 1/2” of shims to make it right. So that’s why I’m extending the heim joints equally on both sides.

Chris

 

It'll be fine!

 

"It'll be fine...thread..."

 

I have 20-21 full turns before the heim joints come out on my SOT upper arms.

This is with the jam nut threaded towards the heim joint.

I have had one out as far as 9 full turns from fully threaded in.