Yep, I'd be inside the door up to my elbows right now.

 

I bet you would, have you done this task?

 

I have done the driver side window ragulator on a handful of cars and the passenger side on a couple as well. I like em to roll up right so they don't whistle or rattle at higher speeds when closed, and water tight.

 

Exactly, both doors close without any noise whatsoever. I'm replacing the rubber that surrounds the door, that should finish the door completely.

Please post pictures of your car as I am interested. It sounds very similar to mine.

 

I paid a mustang shop to fix my regulator once. Over $300. Didn’t do it right. Ended up doing it myself correctly. It’s amazing as I look back in time about all the money I paid people to do work for me that I ended up doing myself later. I wish I had the confidence back then to realize I CAN do it.

Allen

 

My brother I have done the same thing. When I was working like a mad man and making the big bucks it just did not make sense to do somethings like install a new stereo. I once paid a professional to do the install and it was incorrect to say the least. Now just like you I do a lot more myself. Yes, we can do much more than we think.

These days my rule is that if I can do something myself I do exactly that, it may be painful but I do the work myself.

I applaud your comment and honesty.

 

Any instructions or advice on doing this? My 68 has the glass in the door and the regulator out. Kind of moot because the left door needs to be replaced, but I want to get the glass out of both and the regulators so I can work on them while the car is gone having metalwork/paint done.

 

I do have some advice in regard to replacing your window regulator; however it sounds like you are on the right path already. My rule is that anytime you need to do a task you fix everything that is in that general area, in other words if a window reg needs to be replaced you address the inside door metal since it's right there. My advice may be a little general but here is the process I used.

Replacing a window regulator / Metal work will be addressed before putting the new regulator in.

1. Take the door apart. Take pictures if you feel this would be helpful.
2. Sand the inside and outside of the door, lots of surface rust (more than surface rust in some places)
3. Vacuumed up all the dust and junk.
3A. Clean, Clean, Clean
4. Applied POR15 to the inside of the door. Let the POR15 dry completely before moving forward
4A. Sand the outside of the door and Clean, Clean, Clean
4B. If you decide to use POR15 do not get this on your skin, it's tuff to get off.
4C. Avoid getting POR15 on any of the rods that run to the locking latch and key latch
5. Paint the outside door skin. I used rustoleum (spray can)
6. Installed the new window regulator - Watch youtube videos they are helpful
6A. The window does not need to come out to replace the window reg, keep that in mind.
7. Greased the window tracks
8. Reassembled the door

Note: If you have a courtesy light in the door disconnect the battery before you disconnect the light.

I hope this helps.

 

I'd replace the regulator in a heart beat. Its not that hard to do.

 

My car had the same issue. I'd pull into a Cars & Coffee, open the door and the window would roll itself down. I was concerned reproduction regulators wouldn't fit or work very well, but once again, NPD came through. I replaced both regulators. It wasn't fun, but I've certainly done worse jobs. And I glad I did it.

 

Honestly if you can't replace a window regulator, owning one of these cars may not be your bag.

 

Certainly not saying I can’t (or if the OP was), but having never done it and not being familiar is different than “can’t.” A video or instructions could go a long way.

 

While it’s apart, don’t forget to replace the rollers and lubricate where appropriate.

 

I took all four of them out and put in “electric life” power actuators
The switches are mounted in the Center console for easy operation by driver and passenger.
I wired it so the quarter panel units go up and down in unison with one switch.
The rear right switch is for power door locks

 

Doing it your way, I love it.

 

Another piece of advice is to use old windlace around the openings in the door as the edges are pretty sharp. Your hands and arms will thank you.

Not a hard job as I’ve done it on both sides of my fastback. Just have to be comfortable working in tight spaces. As was stated above, use lube on the pivot points and rollers. Also I used old pieces of 2x4 boards inside the door to hold the glass up while I worked on it.

 

The windlace is a very good piece of advice, I just did not have any. I think you can use tape as well, anything to take the edge off those share edges. This will help when you are sanding the inside of the door, your forearms will thank you.

Also, I too used 2x4 boards to hold up the window, you need something. To be honest I hated this task, I'm glad it's over.

 

I went a different route. (Because.) I never liked the look of the aftermarket "scissors" assemblies and so decide to just replace the actual regulator. Which is the little splined crank assembly that the handle attaches to. It's held to the scissors by three rivets. After some junkyard fumbling I discovered the though the scissors were a hugely different design, the regulators from 1979-93 Mustangs were identical. Due the to different design and vastly lighter glass, those regulators basically don't wear like the older ones. They've worked fine for the last 15 years or so. Unfortunately manual window Fox Mustang donors have completely dried up in the junkyards. Early 1980's Ranger ones fit but have a rather too long shaft. Might be an option for someone with thicker custom door panels though. Those are still sort of findable but in any case you have to buy the entire assembly then take it home and do the drilling to take it apart.

 

I haven't done it myself, but I've assisted in it being done.

 

If you have help take it. Next time you can do it yourself or help someone else. I would help anyone who needed this task done as I now feel I have something to offer.

 

When I replaced my regulators, I lined the inside of the door skin with Noico sound deadener. It ws pretty easy to do with the regulators removed. After installing the new regulators, I applied another layer of sound deadender to the inside of the door. Surprisingly, it made difference to the way the door panels fit. But boy did it make my car a lot quieter. And the doors now shut with a nice, "THUD" rather than that annoying, "CLANG".

 

@esolorzano Thank you for the very detailed post, that is a good starting place. I also do have the PDF version of the Ford Shop Manual. Once I print it out at work (gotta love having access to "free" printing), it should be much easier for me to find and follow their procedure. Thank you!

 

Purchased all 4 for my 67 vert. So far due to life happening .,plus the fact I don't sit anywhere but the driver seat that's the only one replaced . I can roll the pass window up & down the rear windows don't move so i need to finish the job.

My one piece of advise is do not unbolt the window stop on the rear of the door by the door handle. If you do let me know how you like getting it back in place .

 

If I have it opened up then I like to rebuild/refresh it all. Regardless of if it works well or not. Refreshing all the bushings and such with my 70 Mach 1 now. will be near showroom ready for spring. Been a 10 year restoration. Can't wait!