Vintage Mustang Forums banner

E7, GT40 & GT40P valve spring swap

13K views 8 replies 5 participants last post by  Huskinhano  
#1 · (Edited)
I used a kit from Alex's parts and a Proform valve spring micrometer. I thought I'd post the procedure. It's pretty straight forward. I used compressed air and a adapter made from a spark plug. I broke out the porcelain which was actually pretty tough! Once that was out, I used a 3/8" NPT tap which worked out great and threaded in an air chuck. This kit is good for 540" lift.



This is the kit. Along with the springs, retainers and keys, I ordered shims and Viton seals.







The seals



The problem with these heads the grove on the valve for the keepers is located lower then the intake, you can't use a conventional spring kit. The kits sold for this application either have a specific retainer or exhaust valve keys. The kit I used, the keys are specific for the exhaust valves. the LH key is the exhaust valve. They're color coded making it easy to quickly identify them. The exhaust are a light blue and the intakes are a light red.



Here is the Proform micrometer. It worked well enough and was accurate, I checked it with my calipers. What I didn't like was when it was zeroed on the .100", it looked like you pasted by .020", meaning the lines didn't match, more on that later.



Here is my VS compressor. You can tell it's old, made in USA, lol.



Here's what you start with. the exhaust valve is on the left, it's thicker up by the retainer due to the rotator.



Compressing the spring. What I like about this style, it frees up your hands to install those pesky keepers. Once compressed, I used a magnetic wand to pull the keepers out. It was just easier that way.



Old springs off. You can see the old seals. Not sure if I have a picture installing the new seals. Pretty straight forward. Clean everything up, oil the stems and seals up and slide the new seals over the guides until they bottom out. If you look at the key grooves on the two valves, you will notice the groove on the exhaust valve on the left is lower then the groove on the intake valve on the right and why you need the different keys to use the same spring and retainer on both valves.



Next, install the micrometer, cap and keepers then expand the micrometer by turning the barrel. The reading is 1.800". This is what I was talking about. It looks like I went past 1.800" by about .020" but that is 1.800", all the zeros line up. target height is 1.780".



Next I installed a shim, just about perfect at 1.780"



I checked each and every valve. I have to say they were all pretty close. Some didn't need any shims and most needed a .020" to get it very close. I'm working off my cell phone camera and my work laptop since I dropped my laptop last week and broke the mother board so things may be a little short with photos. It wasn't too easy loading pictures.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
When you are shimming valve springs, do you go to the next size over or leave them at the last size under or do you have to go back and cut the spring seat more on the head? It looks like they only come in .015, .030 and .060 widths.

To be honest this was my first time setting springs up. This is a low dollar build, no plans on popping the heads off. The E303 cam has .500" lift, I don't think I'll be pushing it more then 5500. So, in reality I don't know how important it is in my case on getting it dead on. Probably "close" would have been good. But I erred on being 1.800" vs 1.700". I have to say even with no shims they were close averaging a little over 1.800" and a .015" shim put it just about dead on. I had one needing a .030" shim and several needed no shims. I guess for the street having a little more room on the loose side would help keep heat down...which would probably be next to nothing anyway. More tedious then anything else.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
if you ever pull the heads and want more power, determine your piston to deck height at tdc then use a cometic head gasket that will get you between .034 and .043 quench/squish distance, then mill the heads to at least 56 cc's.
Absolutely. Without a doubt, I'd have them cut to 55-56 right off the bat. Then clean up the bowls, good set of valves and valve job and 3/8" studs for roller rockers. With a good custom ground cam it would be making a lot of power. But for the cost of head work, it would go a long way to a set of good aluminum heads which would take weight off the front end. A lot of people dislike the P head, I don't have an issue with them. This motor is a real low buck build. I sold a set of new P heads for $525 and bought a 97 Mountaineer motor, trans along with all the wiring and ECU for $450. I was given a E cam, bought a Stealth manifold for $80. The motor has less then 40K miles.
 
Discussion starter · #9 · (Edited)
nothing wrong with the P heads and most exhausts will fit them if you use the short spark plugs and play it safe by using porcelain spark plug boots.

as far as cheap aluminum ones go these days, eddy raised the price on theirs recently so even the e street heads are getting costly which leaves the chinese heads as the low cost option but their rocker studs break easily so i would consider changing those.

anyway, looks like you got it handled and back on the road so that's xlnt and as was mentioned, it was a nice write up!


.
Thanks for the compliment! It's still a work in progress. My 66 is running...barely. the 71 302 is pretty shot. Running on 7 cylinder with a lot of funny noises coming from the lower end. Even still, it's a fun car to drive with the Street or Track suspension. I was debating on keeping the P cam. it makes a ton of low end power and I like my 2.8's and WR Toploader. Even if the E cam is soft on the bottom end, it can't be worse then my present motor, lol.

I have a set of MACs for it. Autolite 764's seem to fit ok. Even the stock C code exhaust manifold looks like you could make it work. You would have to do a little grinding on the flange area, use a 90* boot and install the plug before the manifold and oh yeah, use antisieze so you can take it apart later to change plugs*G*