[FrankieThe69Kid]

After the epic, "Worse than I thought" thread, the engine's almost all back together and I'll be breaking it in (again) within a day or so.
Plan is to dump 5 quarts of 10w-40 in along with "Zinc Hyper Lube" ( http://www.autozone.com/motor-oil-a...id/engine-additive-and-cleaner/hy-per-lube-zinc-replacement-additive/416399_0_0 ).
Because I'll be using this oil just for a few hours (if that), can I use "bargain brand" oil, then drain it and change it out to my usual oil of choice, Pennzoil 10w-40 along with another bottle of Zinc additive?
Also, when I drain it, is engine flush a good or bad idea? With all the info I got about the cam and lifters, I'm thinking it would be better to try to keep as much lube on the cam as possible. Seems to me the flush would wash it off... or thin it out at least.
I've been using Pennzoil with no problems since 2005 after I heard about the ZDDP and the dreaded "star-burst" logo that doesn't appear on the Pennzoil bottles. I'll still put the additive in for peace of mind.

 

[Kid Mechanic]

As long as the oil in question has the ASE and other seals of approval, it will be fine. Then change oil & filter and run for another 500 miles, or hourly equivalent, and change it again using your favorite brand and blend.

 

[c6fastback]

I would buy the Comp Cams 10w30 break-in oil #1590 at about $6-7 per quart . Drain after initial break-in
and run Valvoline Racing 10-30 and some zddp for peace of mind . Do not skimp on oil .

 

[2nd 66]

any good engine oil has enough detergent that a flush isn't necessary or even a good idea for that matter

 

[victor]

I've always used 30w with a zinc additive for cam break in 2,000 rpm in driveway for 29 minutes or so, drain, new filter, and reflll with 30w and zinc and drive for another 500 miles, drain and fill with whatever oil you want to use (I use mobil1 15/50 as it has high zinc) and go 2,000 miles, drain and refill then you're ready to go. For the first 500 miles or so, vary engine speed so oil gets everywhere..

 

[Woodchuck]

My choice of a break-in oil is Valvoline VR1 SAE30 single-viscosity racing oil or similar SAE30 with an API classification of SJ or older.

Two things about engine oils, and where it pays to investigate...

1. ZDDP (Zinc dialkyldithiophosphates) are anti-wear agents placed in an oil's additive package. ZDDP chemically bonds to the ferrous metals in the engine to form a "cushion" between them. This includes not only between camshafts and lifters but pretty much ALL of the friction surfaces. Cams and cam bearings, main & rod bearings, rings and cylinder walls, wrist pins and rods and pistons, rockers and fulcrums, pushrods and rockers, etc. It's a "sacrificial" additive so it wears away if the level in the oil gets low, so keeping the oil changed with a higher ZDDP product is important.

2. Many oils have extremely high detergent packages, especially oils approved for use in engines with hydraulically-controlled variable valve timing. While it's good that combustion byproducts (soot, ash and other carbons, water and other chemicals) are removed, the detergents are not selective and will try and clean the ZDDP away as well. This INS'T a good thing.

This is why I try and avoid any oil with an API Classification of SL, SM, SN or whatever may follow SN, and ANY oils with a diesel (Cx) Classification that PRECEDES the spark ignition (Sx) Classification (eg CD/SJ, etc.).


When you've completed the break-in and the engine is still hot, dump the oil and filter and move to a multi-viscosity oil befitting your engines bearing clearances (a 10W-30 for standard clearances is usually quite satisfactory or a 10W-40 if you live near Donald's proposed border wall or the high desert in the Summer). The same rule applies...stay away from any oil with an API Classification of SL, SM or SN or with the diesel classification listed first.

 

[TommyK]

Use a purpose specific break in oil like Joe Gibbs BR oil or equivalent.

 

[FrankieThe69Kid]

Alright... never knew there were oils specific to break-in, so I'll go that route along with the ZDDP additive. Thanks C6FB, Victor, Bart, and TommyK.
I'll keep an eye out for the SJ rating too. Thanks Bart.
I had a 72 coupe back in my college days and tried 20W-50... not a big fan of the 50. Engine always felt like it was dogging. IMO, the engines were designed with specific tolerances in the bearings. If 10 cold & 40 hot are what fit between the bearing and the journal, I'll stick with it. I'm also in Massachusetts. Most of the driving I do is not in sweltering hot temperatures. Maybe a week during the summer so I don't feel the heavier oil is necessary. Mobil 1, however... might give that some thought. The only thing that stops me is my wallet. Thanks Victor.
I've also been trying to find low detergent oil because the engine (even though it had been sitting for some time) is a fresh re-build. I'll see if I can find a "medium rare" detergent oil. Thanks 2nd66.

 

[victor]

Mobil 1 15/50 is expensive unless you buy it by the jug at Walmart which is what I do. And you're welcome. Hope you have a better experience this time around....

 

[Fair Oaks Mustang]

If you buy a breakin oil like Joe Gibbs, you do not need to add the zddp. It's already in there.

 

[flyhigh@mach1]

Use an oil with high ZDDP in it already, like Valvoline 10W30 racing oil...I broke in my 351C with this oil beautifully. Adding ZDDP as an additive packet can cause oil to LOOSE some of its lubrication qualities....some oils don't like it when you mess with the formula. Look at this web site BEFORE you fire up that engine.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

 

[Kelly_H]

Any old oil will work, but generally stick to the better quality ones (i.e. not Walmart brand). You just don't need an oil that has a ton of zinc in it since the break-in additive has that. As others have said, no flush necessary - after break-in, just a drain and refill with good oil (with appropriate levels of zinc) will do it.

When I broke in my motor, I used two bottles of Lucas break-in additive and just normal Valvoline 10W-30 oil that was on sale. Broke it in, drove it a couple miles, drained the oil and filled with my normal oil, drove 500 miles, drained and refilled again and have been good ever since.

Good luck!

 

[sheza65]

Frank,
You're armed with enough info to get it done. Good luck this time. I'm looking forward to a good report back to us.

 

[6sally6]

OP is over thinking this thang!
Follow Kelly's advice and you should have no probs.
First hundred or so miles "occasionally" run it up in each gear to say...4000RPM and then let off the gas totally and let the engine pull the speed back down to say....1000RPM. Do this "occasionally" in 1st gear and second gear. Vary the speeds/rpm you drive at for the first hundred or so.
The rings will set "almost guaranteed"!
Drain oil like Kelly sez and after a hundred or so miles..........DRIVE-IT-LIKE-YOU-STOLE-IT!:x
6sally6

 

[zray]

after all the money already down the drain, why be skimping on buying a quality oil for the most important 20 minutes of your engines life. At most you would be saving $10. ? ? ?

some lessons are hard learned

Z.

 

[ak72]

My choice of a break-in oil is Valvoline VR1 SAE30 single-viscosity racing oil or similar SAE30 with an API classification of SJ or older.

Two things about engine oils, and where it pays to investigate...

1. ZDDP (Zinc dialkyldithiophosphates) are anti-wear agents placed in an oil's additive package. ZDDP chemically bonds to the ferrous metals in the engine to form a "cushion" between them. This includes not only between camshafts and lifters but pretty much ALL of the friction surfaces. Cams and cam bearings, main & rod bearings, rings and cylinder walls, wrist pins and rods and pistons, rockers and fulcrums, pushrods and rockers, etc. It's a "sacrificial" additive so it wears away if the level in the oil gets low, so keeping the oil changed with a higher ZDDP product is important.

2. Many oils have extremely high detergent packages, especially oils approved for use in engines with hydraulically-controlled variable valve timing. While it's good that combustion byproducts (soot, ash and other carbons, water and other chemicals) are removed, the detergents are not selective and will try and clean the ZDDP away as well. This INS'T a good thing.

This is why I try and avoid any oil with an API Classification of SL, SM, SN or whatever may follow SN, and ANY oils with a diesel (Cx) Classification that PRECEDES the spark ignition (Sx) Classification (eg CD/SJ, etc.).


When you've completed the break-in and the engine is still hot, dump the oil and filter and move to a multi-viscosity oil befitting your engines bearing clearances (a 10W-30 for standard clearances is usually quite satisfactory or a 10W-40 if you live near Donald's proposed border wall or the high desert in the Summer). The same rule applies...stay away from any oil with an API Classification of SL, SM or SN or with the diesel classification listed first.

How about roller cam conversion engines, can you run atleast SL API oil? It's quite hard to find any oil here in Finland without atleast SL API.

 

[dobrostang]

Good Luck Frankie, personally I like Brad Penn break-in oil, I did a bunch of reading on this back when and most of the advice was to buy old fashion dinosaur juice with lots of ZDDP. Since your engine is new, might consider 10-w30. It will spin a little freeer and is likely to be the weight your tolerances are set up for.

To your unanswered question from your other post: I play a 90s vintage dobro worked over by Tim Sheerhorn and a bell-steel tricone tuned to D (capo to E for blues-with-the-boyz) (you gotta get one, mine is a CL $300 Republic, it roars - they're a blast!) as my working setup.

Cheerz

M

 

[zray]

How about roller cam conversion engines, can you run atleast SL API oil? It's quite hard to find any oil here in Finland without atleast SL API.

by the time the additive package is used up, my oil would have been changed a long ago. with the oil I use anyway.

Had a Blackstone lab test done some years ago on some new and then used Mobil 1 15w-50 oil that came out of my '66 GT350. After 5,000 miles I'd lost about 22% of my additive package, except the zinc and phosphorus. Those levels were down 10%. Not enough to worry about.


in Finland I'd be using Mobil 1 0w-40, in a roller or flat tappet engine. I'd add 4 oz. of cam shield to the flat tappet engine even though the 0w-40 from Mobil has 1100/1000 ppm zinc phosphorus, just because.

PS, ak72, if you haven't noticed already, the forum is very democratic. You'll (nearly) get a different opinion about oil with every individual who posts.

Z

 

[OldMil]

Just about as important as the oil (possibly more important) is a good filter to trap all of the engine crap from a rebuild and initial break in wear. I use Wix filters....Good luck! Jack