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Thank you for all that trouble. It is a significant dent. And you're running manual steering right? I am having second thoughts on this one. My engine builder said to go with FPA because of quality and I can take out the starter without taking out the headers (can't say anything because I don't know). But I really hate to go all through this: pay a good amount of money and still not sure if it will fit.

I PM'd you about the motor mounts.

Thanks again,

Vincent
I still have the headers that were on the car when I bought it in 1988. They had several dents for clearence. No marking though to tell who manufactured them. And they were a PAIN to unbolt and remove.

I bought a set of Hedman Hedders in 1992 that had 2 1/8" tubes and 3 1/2 " collector with the front two pipes going under the lower control arms. It was a trial and error process on the install. Attempt to install till it interfers with something then remove and dimple a tube. The Hedmans had multipy dimple to make them fit. Once they were installed, I had to unbolt the automatic trans to pull it back and gain enough clearence to install the starter.

For me, the ONLY dent on the FPA's was not that bad. The FPA headers were easier to install by a very wide margin. The car is manual steering at the moment, but will have the Borgeson power gear box installed when it moves by itself. I have not installed a starter so I cannot commnet on the fit either.
 

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Discussion starter · #26 ·
Bruce thanks for the pics. I just called Tom but he was already out. I should know tomorrow if Edelbrock heads will need oil restrictions.
 
I just had a set of FPA's installed on my 69 S code with Edelbrock heads. The car has a Borgenson box and factory rack and a C6. It also has the big block re-inforced shock towers and we had to modify them to clear the headers as well as notch a corner of the block. Also used FPA's power steering drop down bracket. Could not install the engine with the headers installed. Just our experience.
 
Hi John,
I designed and built it myself using sheet metal and a piece of 1.5" exhaust tubing in a very tight bend. I have it attached to "L" brackets bolted to two header attachment bolts and secured from there with SS screws. I'm glad you like it. It went through several revisions before it would fit between the headers and the shock tower. I used light weight card board to make the initial shapes for all the pieces that I later welded together into one unit. Bruce
 

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I had Hookers first on the 390 in my 68 fastback, they hung way too low. We replaced them with the FPAs and they fit beautifully and are nice and snug up below. You're supposed to be able to install the engine with the headers on, but it wasn't possible for us. We had to loosen the passenger side to get the 390, C-6, and headers in the car. Not a big deal, but it wouldn't fit otherwise.
 
Bruce,
Hope the pictures help. I bought what looks to me to be factory block plates and motor mounts from Perogie Enterprises about 1998. They had an ad in Super Ford with a phone number and I didn't know of anywhere else to get them. The factory parts from my car were installed on another 390 motor in a 68 Mustang that I sold about 1996.
There is plenty, use that word loosely, of room between the shock towers and the headers in the car.

EDIT: If you keep scrolling through the pictures, you'll find the only dimple I made for clearance and that was to clear the Borgeson gear box.
 
Thanks John. I had to buy new block plates also, but they don't look like the ones you used so I was wondering. I have been on Perogie's site many times. I had to use a 1/4" plate between the block and block plates to get clearance for the very top front bolts on my shock towers. It seems as thought some cars clear no problem and others need a shoe horn to get in. I have factory power steering and did not need to dimple any of the tubes. But it is a very tight fit with the idler arm on the right inside frame rail. B.
 
My FPA's bolted on and dropped in place on my 67 with only minor issues. The secret is to jack up the rear of the car as high as you can get it. I have seen pic's on the FE forum of the entire engine/trans/headder being bolted together and dropped in as an assembly. I couldn't get the car up high enough in the rear to make that happen so I had to put the trans in form the bottom. Trim the bolts on the idler arm flush. Trim the bottom of the Z bar before you mount it and you won't have to dent the tubes at all. You will probably have to trim the bottom of the block on the driver side at the tab to make the FPA's tuck up nice and tight. I don't know how they fit with the steering system you chose. They fit beautifully with stock/non power steering.

Edit; They may also want to hang up during installation on the heater motor. Just fiddle with it till you get the right angle. It'll go. Also I did mine with the power brake booster and master cylinder in place.
 
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