Here’s a good compression ratio calculator
Summit calculator

I have a lot going on at the moment, will post more later

 

The Eagle kit looks like it's a 347. Actually a little bigger because of the .040 bore. You'll need to know your deck clearance and gasket thickness to get a closer reading.

 

did i do this right? did i use the right deck clearence?
62cc heads is 9.14 is this enough or what cam max can i buy? a 282 comp cam?
is 58cc heads better?

 

Yep, you did that right. .011 deck is a ‘close/good enough’ estimate, but that brings us to quench height (distance from piston crown to cylinder head). With your input numbers, you have .052 quench.
That’s a lot. The sweet spot for a steel rod street engine is closer to .040. You could get closer to that with a thinner head gasket, but at this point we do NOT know what the deck height is. Thus the estimate.

Camshafts. Ask ten guys, get ten different answers Lol
I‘ll just say that the Comp 282 grind is close to the ideal SBF camshaft for street use. It’s damn near perfect. In fact, it’s what I run

 

Arizona GT
Yes i can build the motor and after this i can choose a thickness of gasket . But i have allready felpro 0.040 in my garage.

Do you have a vid of youre car with 282 cam (what engine?)

 

Engine is very similar to what you’re after.
Fun little motor in a fun little car

 

If you're capping off the power due to the T5's inherent weakness, why not just leave it a 289? I recently put together a 289 with AFR165 heads and a good hydraulic flat tappet cam and this thing with a toploader and 3.50s in a '68 fastback with 225/60/15 radial T/As will incinerate tires from a stop without trying hard at all. This engine would absolutely blow up a T5 if you beat on it hard. It's in the low 300s horsepower and more torque, by butt dyno. So why spend the extra money on the stroker kit?

 

Just a little bit of advice..... "Building a motor" involves much more than just picking pieces from a catalog or website and installing them. Selecting the wrong components can end up with you leaving a lot of potential performance "on the table" or, even worse, lead to premature mechanical failure. Unless you have a good understanding of engine theory or are assembling an engine to a previously proven set of parameters I would suggest buying a complete long-block assembly, most which come with a warranty of some kind.

Hint: Remember that the companies making these aftermarket components are in business to make money, and their advertising and marketing is developed around convincing you to purchase their product. Also, don't forget that what someone may claim about a product they purchased may, frequently, be more opinion-based than fact-based....especially if they spend a lot of money on it.... after all, who really wants to admit that they may a poor purchasing decision?

 

Christof I did what you are planning, in 2016 to my '68. I went for the Scat rotating assembly & Stroker kit # 1-94055BE with 0.030 over Icon Forged 9970 FHR pistons.
After the parts arrived I took the block & pistons to the machine shop, had the bores honed with clearance for forged pistons & the block zero decked.
With 0.039 compressed thickness Cometic MLS head gaskets I have a static CR of around 9.8:1.
Working the valves is a Lunati flat tappet camshaft # 10350702 with 1.6:1 Lunati roller rockers, & it is topped of with a pair of AFR Renegade 165 heads, RPM Air Gap Intake & a Summit 600 Carb.
It is a very peppy little engine & I am more than happy with the results of my work.
I am in Germany so more or less the same European Import BS applies here as you have in Belgium.
I'll tack on a few photos of the build if is of any help.
Cheers. Gaz.

Be sure to order the correct flexplate/flywheel with the kit as it is a balanced assembly.

 

These pics were from a recent freshening up, about 2500 miles on it now.
I first built this motor about 20 years ago.

 

My young adult son doing the grunt work 😜

 

Scat crank is either cast steel or forged steel and not cast iron. You will probably need to add some dollars for the stroker kit install. You will need to get it balanced with your damper of choice and flywheel or flexplate. I didn't want to rely on what somebody at Scat might do for this. My shop didn't like the finish on my crank so they micro polished it "again". Would somebody at Scat done this? Not sure. As it was delivered it didn't look like it was micro polished at all.

Considering it was a stroker kit I also decided to pay my shop to balance and blueprint it which I believe was a wise decision. The forged rods are supposed to be a matched balanced set and one of mine was not. They did send me another rod that was closer but it still required a bit of grinding to match the rest. I made Scat(in this case) send me another rod. I also had one rod bushing that was deformed so I had to have Scat send me another one. I would have not known about these things if my shop had not balanced it in house.

 

I vinegar thread my engine block because it was full of rust but now I see that there is a engine block piece missing where the cilindern sleeve is put in .

Do i have a problem ? Can ik just bore this sleeve and. Put a stroker in it for max 350hp?

If not I hope I can find a new block here in europe

 

That‘s no problem at all, just some rust/scale, no need for a sleeve.
Run it 👍

 

Arizona.

The block has a sleeve in it . I think there is a part missing from the cast of the block and what you see is the sleeve

 

As long as it wasn’t leaking before, I’d run it 👍

 

You'll have a reliable fun street motor with that 331. Don't worry about hurting your rebuilt T5. Unless you decide to make a habit of really hooking up (slicks etc..) that T5 will do just fine.

 

an update on my 289 block.
i was thinking about it and when i was cleaning the waterports (behind the freese plugs) i had taken out alot of iron litlle pieces that did stick to my magnet and after a lot more investigation its from the piece thats missing out of the casting.

so last day i exchanged my old289 cilinderheads and 0.030 over pistons with a other and good 289 block . i had only pay the seller the half of the block because of my cilinderheads.
the 289 that i bought is still a standard bore so i just need to bore it to 0.030 inch.

i'm gonna go with a 331 stroker ( no need for a 347 because of the max 350hp T5)
there are a few options of +5cc , +6cc or a - 6.8 CC piston head volume.
i wanna buy heads from skip white performance or flotek( debating between flat tapped or roller lifters)
The NKB FORD aluminum heads have 62cc combustion chambers with 190cc runners, 2.02/1.60 stainless valves from comp cams or melling max 535 lift for hydraulic flat tapped
roller heads are to max 600 lift

Flo-Tek Cylinder Head Assembly 203-505FT; 180cc Aluminum 58cc for Ford 302/351W

i know i wanna cheap out on heads but for max 350 hp and that my prices (Europe)are an extra of 30 percent on top of the ( part cost + shipping) the expensier heads are gonna be 3000 dollars for me.


which of the 3 options is the best option ? +5 , +6 or -6.8cc combustion chamber ?
we have 95 ron but with 10 percent of bio fuel in it and 93 ron with a 5 percent bio and a few more expensive gasstations without the bio crap in the fuel

thanks for helping

 

Domed pistons will raise compression but also require more timing because of slower flame travel and have higher octane requirements. I suggest flattops with valve reliefs; usually adding about 6 cc to the combustion chamber. They'll run best for a street oriented engine that you don't want to be octane sensitive. Some good brands to look at are Mahle, Icon, and Wiseco, preferably in 4032 alloy so you don't have to worry about expansion as much.

Hyper and cast pistons are sometimes a little cheaper, but forged pistons are often lighter, they're stronger, and if you have a tuning "oops" of some sort, they will tend to deform a bit before coming apart. A typical hyper or cast piston when pushed beyond its limits will shatter and do really bad things. With a forged piston, you have a chance to catch it before catastrophic problems occur.

Flo-Tek heads are actually decent castings, but if you have a choice, get the valves, springs, and guides separately - or get AFR Enforcers, which are very similar but come with much better hardware, and won't have weird problems like the heads popping off the valves.

For any street engine, you need to worry about dynamic compression just as much as your static compression number. 8.5:1 dynamic compression (which takes into account valve events and rod ratios as well as the static compression number) is generally considered a 'safe' number for pump gas. Some people advocate higher static compression ratios, like 11:1, but frankly, for a car that's driven a lot, it may not be practical. I would suggest something more between 9:1 and 10:1 for a car that isn't going to be on the track.

Your quench should be somewhere between .037-.045 to get best effect, giving you improved performance and resistance to detonation. Too little, and the pistons can smack into the heads. Too much, and your engine will be much more octane sensitive.

 

In my opinion, go with hydraulic roller lifters, more specifically link bar hydraulic roller lifters. Morel Hydraulic Roller Link Bar Lifters The flat tappet lifters circulating right now are a disaster quality wise and fail too often. This also opens up your cam choices and you don’t need to source a reduced base circle camshaft or mess with adding the lifter hold down bar with “OEM“ type hydraulic lifters in your older block. And the cost difference isn’t a deal breaker.

 

so minus 11cc will be perfect for a 58cc head and 62cc head so its around 10/1 compression?

see list
yes my doughter is watching blippie on my computer when i do my thing

 

so minus 11cc will be perfect for a 58cc head and 62cc head so its around 10/1 compression?

Yes 👍
I know it’s been beat to death around here… but you’re T5 will be fine. WFO power shifts are hard on them, yes. Under those (repeated) conditions they can spit 3rd gear out, but gettin‘ after it now and again (especially on street tires) will be fine 😊

 

 

My young nephews taught me what Blippie is… I had no idea 🤣

 

I think European Mustangs are cool, and I especially like the cars with some… extra… motivation 😉
Im looking forward to following your build 👍

 

Finally i have found a original 289 standard size bore block with a lot of cilinder were and big ridge.
So I took it to a machine shop and he was feeling with his hand when we took the motor out the car and his thought were maybe 0.030" is not enough so he suggested to bore it to see it 0.930 is gonna work so I can order 0.030 or need to buy 0.040and later when I have the pistons that he will hone it at the right size.

What is the largest size that he can bore before honing to a 0.030 oversize? Is it 0.003 smaller then 0.030 so 0.027?
For a street strip drive without blower

SCAT Engine Components 1-94055

Pistons are icon alu 4032. 11 percent silicone


Thanks

 

Christof, it's a good idea to let the machinist pick the bore and pistons, if you have a choice! Let him know what you intend, and he may be able to save you some money while still getting you exactly what you really need and want. Specifying Icon isn't a bad idea, and letting him know what compression ratio you want, but letting him bore it first and figuring out what's going to fit, for example.

That way he won't feel like you're micro-managing, but you still get the setup you were looking for. If the block's so torn up it needs more than .040, you might think about a different block! But hopefully it's fine.

Icon's one of my favorite pistons for street engines. and the 4032 makes great sense.

Best wishes!

 

My 333 (331+.040) makes excellent streetable HP/TQ. My block is an OEM 5 bolt. I started with a having the block professionally hot tanked, sonic checked etc. After passing those tests, I scrubbed it again and nit picked all of the internal crevices looking for 50 year pockets of casting debris. Guess what? There was still debris caught in pockets and crevices. Next, I chamfered the oil return holes in the lifter valley and cleaned up the oil return to the distributor gear in the front of the valley. All bores and passages were "picky" cleaned.
After this operation, I scrubbed it again, cleaned it with a degreasing solvent that left no residue and painted (brushed) the interior of the block with Glyptal. Doing this (my thinking) provided a "slicker" surface for oil to return to the pan quicker and "immortalize" any remaining casting debris, which, I doubt was left behind. I painted the timing chain cover to reduce any electrolysis that may occur between it and the other ferrous metals. You have to get the metal meticulously clean for the paint to remain. I've since "screened" my oil changes for any "flakes", thus far, been good......after ten years, or so.
Here's an a few pics....for ideas

 

My 333 (331+.040) makes excellent streetable HP/TQ. My block is an OEM 5 bolt. I started with a having the block professionally hot tanked, sonic checked etc. After passing those tests, I scrubbed it again and nit picked all of the internal crevices looking for 50 year pockets of casting debris. Guess what? There was still debris caught in pockets and crevices. Next, I chamfered the oil return holes in the lifter valley and cleaned up the oil return to the distributor gear in the front of the valley. All bores and passages were "picky" cleaned.
After this operation, I scrubbed it again, cleaned it with a degreasing solvent that left no residue and painted (brushed) the interior of the block with Glyptal. Doing this (my thinking) provided a "slicker" surface for oil to return to the pan quicker and "immortalize" any remaining casting debris, which, I doubt was left behind. I painted the timing chain cover to reduce any electrolysis that may occur between it and the other ferrous metals. You have to get the metal meticulously clean for the paint to remain. I've since "screened" my oil changes for any "flakes", thus far, been good......after ten years, or so.
Here's an a few pics....for ideas
View attachment 841022 View attachment 841023 View attachment 841024 View attachment 841025

Looks nice .

What hp dou you have and what parts do you have on it like cam i take heads

 

The block can be bored to 0.030 over so I can choose the rotating assembly from scat(backorder)
I can choose between +11cc or +6cc
I Europe we have the ethanol free gas as 98 RON like the 93 in America.

I still debating between 58 cc , 69cc or 62cc heads.
I have a original thickness felori gasket and an engine that never had been machined or bored.
So chances are big that the deck height is original.

I wanna drive something like comp cams hydraulic lifter link bar style with a 284 or a slightly bigger cam with a t5 trans.

What do you guys recommend?

 

My combo Dyno'd (chassis) at 392 RWHP w/401 RWTQ @4200. It'll Rev to 7K with 6500 as usable. I run 57CC Twisted wedge heads, link-bar roller lifters and roller rockers. It makes 10.6 Static and 9.5, or so. dynamic CR. Has a full base custom billet cam. This engine has held together for 10-11 years. I run a 190º T/S, 5 blade aluminum fan with a 4 row copper/brass RAD and full shroud. To date, It does not over-heat.
Put together a quality head and valve train, as with out it, you will not realize all of your cam's potential.

 

93 octane non-ethanol is probably some of the best pump gas in the world, I’m envious. I’m stuck with 10% ethanol 91 octane 😡

I’d go with the 6cc pistons; those are probably just valve reliefs. Unless you’re supercharging or nitrous injection, I wouldn’t want to add the volume of 11cc. 58cc chambered heads. As to deck heights… if I haven’t mentioned it already, read up on quench height. Shoot for .045 or so, that’ll do a lot for controlling pinging/detonation.