I just recently purchased a new oil pan for a 1965 with a 289 because the like drain plug threading was shot, and I wanted to ask what I need to replace it and maybe some tips. I purchased a new pan from Cj classics and a new gasket from ford racing. Do I need silicone? Is it possible to do without a lift?
How do I replace an oil pan?
dundermifflen123
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I just recently purchased a new oil pan for a 1965 with a 289 because the like drain plug threading was shot, and I wanted to ask what I need to replace it and maybe some tips. I purchased a new pan from Cj classics and a new gasket from ford racing. Do I need silicone? Is it possible to do without a lift?
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Yes, it can be done without a lift. Remove the cross member and disconnect the steering idler arm; that will give you the clearance to drop the pan. Which gasket did you get from Ford Racing? If it's one of the one piece gaskets, it comes with four plastic studs that thread into two holes in the front and two in the rear. Those hold the gasket in place and then you push the pan on. Start a few of the other bolts by hand to hold the pan and gasket in place and then unscrew the plastic studs. I believe you can use RTV sealer where the curved portion of the gasket meets the flat portion. It's a known spot for oil leakage. Others will chime in to fill in some of the areas I missed.
+1 on what LeeFred said. The blue FelPro one piece gasket makes it very easy.
One additional comment. Using the method described above, a standard non-baffled oil pan will go on with no problem - at least that is true for a 1968 302 engine. However, if you bought an oil pan with a baffle in it (to prevent oil sloshing to the back on acceleration) you may have to notch the baffle (~0.5") to get it to clear the oil pickup. This has to do with how you have to "angle in" the oil pan when the engine is in the car. Another thing to consider is if the existing oil pan on the car has a baffle and it was put on when the engine was not in the car you may have a problem removing the old pan when you try to "angle out" the old pan. The oil pickup may catch on the baffle.
Edit: Also, make sure your jack stands are not the ones Harbor Freight recently recalled ;-)
One additional comment. Using the method described above, a standard non-baffled oil pan will go on with no problem - at least that is true for a 1968 302 engine. However, if you bought an oil pan with a baffle in it (to prevent oil sloshing to the back on acceleration) you may have to notch the baffle (~0.5") to get it to clear the oil pickup. This has to do with how you have to "angle in" the oil pan when the engine is in the car. Another thing to consider is if the existing oil pan on the car has a baffle and it was put on when the engine was not in the car you may have a problem removing the old pan when you try to "angle out" the old pan. The oil pickup may catch on the baffle.
Edit: Also, make sure your jack stands are not the ones Harbor Freight recently recalled ;-)
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Ford Performance Oil Pan Gasket Rubber One-Piece 260/ 289/ 302/ 5.0L that’s the link to the gasket.
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On my 67', with a 289 and manual steering, all I had to do was drop the crossmember and the starter because it blocks a couple of the oil pan bolts. Then pan cleared everything in and out.
EDIT: I just thought about this and I had my trans out when I did the pan, you may have to drop the idler arm as recommended.
The above advice is spot on, a little silicone in the corners should be all your need. Be careful to tighten the pan evenly and don't over tighten - you will bend the flange and cause leaks.
EDIT: I just thought about this and I had my trans out when I did the pan, you may have to drop the idler arm as recommended.
The above advice is spot on, a little silicone in the corners should be all your need. Be careful to tighten the pan evenly and don't over tighten - you will bend the flange and cause leaks.
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Using that gasket I would:
Remove the engine cross member and remover or drop the steering as indicated (DO NOT FORCE YOUR CROSS MEMBER BOLTS. THEY WILL SNAP OFF. IF YOU FEEL YOU NEED A CHEATER OR IMPACT, POST FOR FURTHER INSTRUCTIONS). Also may have to remove the starter.
Remove the old pan, You'll have to wiggle it and move it forward over the steering linkage to get it all the way out.
Clean the block surface completely.
Put black (oil rated) silicon sealant at the "corners" where the arch of the bearing caps meets the flat of the block face.
Install the blue "holders" that come with the gasket and push the gasket into place.
Put more sealant along the entire arched surface of the oil pan (front and back)....I know you shouldn't have to...but the last two I put in leaked there until I did this.
Maneuver pan onto blue holders and push it into position. Hand tighten all bolts. Snug them down a tad and then allow sealant to set for an hour or so. Then torque to spec.
Good luck.
Don't break your crossmember bolts.
Phil
Remove the engine cross member and remover or drop the steering as indicated (DO NOT FORCE YOUR CROSS MEMBER BOLTS. THEY WILL SNAP OFF. IF YOU FEEL YOU NEED A CHEATER OR IMPACT, POST FOR FURTHER INSTRUCTIONS). Also may have to remove the starter.
Remove the old pan, You'll have to wiggle it and move it forward over the steering linkage to get it all the way out.
Clean the block surface completely.
Put black (oil rated) silicon sealant at the "corners" where the arch of the bearing caps meets the flat of the block face.
Install the blue "holders" that come with the gasket and push the gasket into place.
Put more sealant along the entire arched surface of the oil pan (front and back)....I know you shouldn't have to...but the last two I put in leaked there until I did this.
Maneuver pan onto blue holders and push it into position. Hand tighten all bolts. Snug them down a tad and then allow sealant to set for an hour or so. Then torque to spec.
Good luck.
Don't break your crossmember bolts.
Phil
And here is the FelPro one-piece that I used.
Amazon.com: Fel-Pro OS 13260 T Oil Pan Gasket Set: Automotive
Buy Fel-Pro OS 13260 T Oil Pan Gasket Set: Oil Pan Gasket Sets - Amazon.com âś“ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
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That's the wrong gasket, that's the one for the late model smooth rail pans and will leak with an early model dimpled rail pan.
You need the FelPro OS13260T that @P-51 linked to for the early pan.
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I guess I should have linked the new pan too: Oil Pan Front Sump Chrome With Drain Plug 260/289/289Hi-Po/302 will the gasket still not work with this pan?
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What are the pins for? I will double check and see if the gasket fits when it arrives, but if it doesn’t I’ll be sure to buy that gasket! Thanks!
When putting on the new pan, you first screw these plastic pins into the four corners of where the pan will attach to the bottom of the engine. Then you clip on the gasket. The pins help align the gasket and hold it next to the engine it so that you can then take the new pan and bolt it on without having to worry about gasket alignment. You next put in all the bolts snug, take out the 4 plastic pins, and put in the final 4 corner bolts. Tighten to spec. It's a very clever idea.
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Yea mine didn't have the pins, and unbeknownst to me at the time the gasket slipped at the rear as I was putting the pan back on. So now I have a small leak. I bought a new gasket, but it doesn't have the pins either. Will get one that does. Thanks.
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It'll look like it fits, but the radius at the transition between the seal and pan rail is different depending upon the two different pan styles. The early pan on a later gasket will split the seal and leak.
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I have both the pan and the Fel-Pro gasket now, and all of the holes line up. But at the front and rear of the pan there is a crease that runs across each of the sloped parts of the pan (front and rear). The gasket doesn’t have a slot or place to line up with the pan. I have included a photo, and in the photo I’m showing the underside of the gasket where it should line up with the crease. So does the gasket go infront of the crease? Or behind? Or on it?
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59,923 Posts
^ ^ ^ THIS!
You have the pan with "ribbed" rails, not smooth. You have the gasket for the pan with "smooth" rails, not ribbed.
You should be using the OS13260T...or my choice, the Victor-Reinz OS32491. The only sealant I'd use would be just a small "spot" of Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket across the parting line between the block and front cover before setting the oil pan and gasket in place.
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187 Posts
I ordered the “OS13260T” it says it on the box? Does the Victor Reinz gasket have spaces for the ribbed pan?
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I ordered the gasket that you recommended, and it all seems to line up on the new pan, but the new pan is ribbed in the front and back. The new gasket doesn’t quite line up in the front and the back. I have added a picture if you scroll down some. Any ideas?
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